Ta­ble Talk

Mikael le Clezio, the per­sonal chef of the Roth­schild fam­ily at Château Mou­ton Roth­schild, speaks to James Suck­ling about wine and food

Hong Kong Tatler - - Life | Wine -

Could you tell us more about mou­ton’s style of cui­sine? It is cui­sine bour­geoise, as it’s called in French, with sim­ple dec­o­ra­tion but qual­ity prod­ucts from France. We also pro­vide ser­vice a la Française, which means our guests serve them­selves di­rectly from the wait­ers’ plates.

What is your vi­sion for the château’s style of cui­sine? Bour­geoise cui­sine is a lit­tle re­vis­ited nowa­days and we use less but­ter and sugar than be­fore. We also try other sorts of meat or fish and adapt recipes such as pi­geon in puff pas­try.

How does the château’s wine in­spire you? I hardly ever use wine-based sauces, be­cause my goal is to let the wines fully ex­press them­selves. A som­me­lier works with me for the food and wine pair­ings and we taste and dis­cuss to­gether each dish I de­sign. This is a very im­por­tant process that gives us new in­spi­ra­tion.

What is the per­fect pair­ing for a great bot­tle of Mou­ton Roth­schild? To me, a leg of lamb with veg­eta­bles from the gar­den and can­died gar­lic is the per­fect match for Mou­ton Roth­schild 1982.

What is your favourite vin­tage? I have been lucky enough to taste Château Mou­ton Roth­schild 1947 at some ex­clu­sive din­ners and it’s prob­a­bly the most amaz­ing wine I’ve ever had. I was very im­pressed by the rich­ness and com­plex­ity of the nose and the very long fin­ish.

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