Rich Re­ward

Hong Kong Tatler - - Life -

Thou­sands of wine mer­chants de­scended on Bordeaux in March for the an­nual re­lease of the most re­cent vin­tage in bar­rel—in this case, the 2014 en primeur. This vin­tage has been deemed “the best since 2010” fol­low­ing three av­er­age to very good years. I spent two weeks in mid-march tast­ing more than 700 wines, and the vin­tage is in­deed of very good to out­stand­ing qual­ity. I was par­tic­u­larly im­pressed with the Left Bank ap­pel­la­tions of Saint-julien, Pauil­lac and Saint-estèphe. The owner of Saint-julien’s Château Du­cruBeau­cail­lou, Bruno Borie, says, “We were lucky... again. The sum­mer was medi­ocre but we worked hard in the vine­yards and later with the se­lec­tion. Septem­ber and Oc­to­ber brought good weather. It’s noth­ing new. But we suc­ceeded.” Adds Aymeric de Gironde, man­ag­ing direc­tor of Cos d’es­tour­nel, “There is a rich­ness to the wines but not a sun­ni­ness. The 2014 vin­tage wasn’t easy. The grow­ing sea­son was dif­fi­cult. Septem­ber was the mir­a­cle. It started off well, and it got bet­ter and bet­ter and bet­ter.”

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