Gourmet Re­nais­sance

New chef Alessan­dro An­gelini brings his Ital­ian dishes with a con­tem­po­rary twist to the ta­ble at the Kowloon Shangri-la’s An­gelini res­tau­rant

Hong Kong Tatler - - Tatler Focus -

Highly pop­u­lar din­ing hotspot An­gelini Ital­ian res­tau­rant at the Kowloon Shangri-la, Hong Kong has wel­comed Alessan­dro An­gelini, from the Adri­atic city of Ri­mini, as its new chef.

Chef Alessan­dro’s pas­sion for cook­ing be­gan at a young age, when he took up a sum­mer job at a res­tau­rant in his home­town at the age of 14. He fur­thered his skills at the Al­berghiero di Ri­mini culi­nary school be­fore launch­ing a ca­reer of some two decades span­ning Europe, North Amer­ica and Asia. He has worked along­side such culi­nary lu­mi­nar­ies as Gino An­gelini and Gualtiero March­esi, and celebri­ties who have en­joyed his cook­ing in­clude singer Ge­orge Michael and ten­nis great An­dre Agassi. Chef Alessan­dro has worked for es­tab­lish­ments in­clud­ing the Bauer Ho­tel in Venice, the Ital­ian res­tau­rant Rosso at the Shangri-la Ho­tel, Jakarta and the Gaia Group’s Joia res­tau­rant in Hong Kong.

Chef Alessan­dro’s cook­ing clearly re­flects his in­ter­na­tional ex­pe­ri­ence, but is un­mis­tak­ably Ital­ian at heart. This bal­ance is demon­strated on his latest menu. For ex­am­ple, the raw Si­cil­ian red prawns with av­o­cado, green ap­ple and yogurt, pre­sented like a can­nel­loni, com­bines the art of sashimi with a Mediter­raneanstyle salad. The re­sult is a per­fect dance be­tween oceanic sweet­ness, creami­ness and cit­rusy good­ness. Scampi mar­i­nated with pineap­ple, cu­cum­ber, wa­ter­melon jelly and lime, with the crus­tacean kept in its nat­u­ral con­sis­tency, also achieves a sim­i­lar ef­fect.

A vis­ual sur­prise comes in the form of the home-made black-and-white tagli­olini with scal­lops, king prawns and raw red shrimp served in a pa­per box. Ac­cord­ing to chef Alessan­dro, the con­tainer in which the dish is served has been inspired by origami. Aes­thet­ics aside, it also helps lock in the aroma un­til the food is re­vealed at the ta­ble. Again, the raw crus­tacean meat adds another layer to the per­fectly al dente noo­dles and the heav­enly sweet frutti di mare.

“I come from a place fa­mous for home­made pasta. For me, an Ital­ian res­tau­rant must have good pasta; it is the home­made pasta that makes it unique,” Alessan­dro ex­plains.

Sa­vore-style Dover sole and grati­nated as­para­gus was inspired by a north­ern Ital­ian sauce made with caramelised onions, raisins and pine nuts, tra­di­tion­ally used to pre­serve fish. Here it is em­ployed to com­ple­ment the nat­u­ral taste and tex­ture of the fil­let. Another main course, pork ten­der­loin wrapped in cof­fee with mus­tard sauce and goose liver, pre­sented as if it were an ab­stract paint­ing, hits a high note like a sym­phony of flavours—it is at first sharp and in­tense, and then the meat emerges to melt into the smooth em­brace of the fe­gato.

Chef Alessan­dro says, “We fo­cus on in­gre­di­ents that are straight from Italy—and then we play around with them a lit­tle. Peo­ple go to restau­rants for some­thing in­ter­est­ing, for an ex­pe­ri­ence that makes them come back.”

that’s amore Clock­wise from left: The Kowloon Shangri-la’s An­gelini res­tau­rant; chef Alessan­dro An­gelini; mar­i­nated scampi with pineap­ple, cu­cum­ber, wa­ter­melon jelly and lime

Newspapers in English

Newspapers from China

© PressReader. All rights reserved.