It’s Com­pli­cated

Check out three of the most in­trigu­ing and elab­o­rate new cal­en­dar watches

Hong Kong Tatler - - Style -

Al­ways look­ing for the next chal­lenge, watch­mak­ers have gone be­yond the usual an­nual and per­pet­ual cal­en­dars to de­velop some of the most com­pli­cated time­pieces cen­tred around cal­en­dar func­tions.

The Portugieser Sidérale Sca­fu­sia is the most com­pli­cated watch ever cre­ated by IWC Schaffhausen. It is the first watch to fea­ture a patented con­stant-force tour­bil­lon to­gether with many other com­pli­ca­tions, from side­real time to a per­pet­ual cal­en­dar func­tion, and in­di­vid­u­ally cal­cu­lated astro­nom­i­cal dis­plays, in­clud­ing a cus­tomised ce­les­tial chart at the back of the watch.

One of the most in­tri­cate watches that Hublot has cre­ated has to be the An­tikythera Sun­moon, which is a trib­ute to the An­tikythera mech­a­nism, which was mys­te­ri­ously dis­cov­ered in Greek wa­ters in 1901 and is con­sid­ered the first astro­nom­i­cal cal­cu­la­tor in his­tory, dat­ing back to the 2nd cen­tury BC. The An­tikythera Sun­moon is a unique edi­tion of 20 pieces that fea­tures a sim­pli­fied and minia­turised ver­sion of the an­cient astro­nom­i­cal cal­cu­la­tor, with seven dif­fer­ent com­pli­ca­tions. Apart from be­ing able to read the time, the wearer can name the con­stel­la­tion be­hind the sun and the time when the sun passes through the con­stel­la­tion. The wearer can also track the phases of the moon and the name of the con­stel­la­tion be­hind it.

In time for its 260th an­niver­sary, Vacheron Con­stantin has launched its most com­pli­cated time­piece to date, with 57 func­tions, in­clud­ing a dual ret­ro­grade rat­tra­pante chrono­graph and, for the first time, a He­braic per­pet­ual cal­en­dar. All of Ref­er­ence 57260’s func­tions are ac­ti­vated or set via dis­creet slid­ers and push­ers on the side of the case.

back­ground Born in New York State but brought up in the uk, guy bove first en­tered the world of time­pieces when he landed a job as a de­signer spe­cial­is­ing in the watch sec­tor in Lau­sanne, switzer­land. He had just fin­ished de­grees in euro­pean stud­ies and Prod­uct De­sign. af­ter a fiveyear stint at the de­sign agency, he joined iwc schaffhausen as cre­ative di­rec­tor in 2002 and set up the com­pany’s in-house de­sign stu­dio, where bove says they de­sign every­thing from lo­gos to bou­tiques.

af­ter six years at iwc, bove moved to geneva and joined chopard, where his work in­volved the re­design of the L.u.c col­lec­tion. sub­se­quently, he was asked to be­come the prod­uct di­rec­tor in charge of de­sign and prod­uct de­vel­op­ment. early this year, he was asked to head up de­sign for Fer­di­nand berthoud.

De­sign sig­na­ture Fer­di­nand Berthoud’s first watch, the Fb 1 chronome­ter, pays enor­mous at­ten­tion to de­tail through the shape of the hands, the mi­crob­lasted sap­phire glass sec­onds ring, the ty­pog­ra­phy, the case shape and dial ac­cents. bove favours hid­den de­tails and tiny facets that re­flect light, as well as spe­cial sur­face fin­ishes.

De­sign PHI­LOS­O­PHY Bove be­lieves watches are more than a fash­ion state­ment: “i feel that they should grow on the wear­ers over time and that they should be able to con­tinue to dis­cover lit­tle de­tails about the prod­uct that will make them stay in love with their choice for years to come.”

COOL CAL­EN­DARS From top: IWC Schaffhausen’s Portugieser Sidérale Sca­fu­sia back and front; Vacheron Con­stantin’s Ref­er­ence 57260 pocket watch; Hublot’s An­tikythera Sun­moon

SIM­PLY SLEEK Newly launched watch brand Fer­di­nand Berthoud’s FB 1 Chronome­ter in rose gold

watch De­signer

Guy Bove

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