Check out three of the most intriguing and elaborate new calendar watches
Always looking for the next challenge, watchmakers have gone beyond the usual annual and perpetual calendars to develop some of the most complicated timepieces centred around calendar functions.
The Portugieser Sidérale Scafusia is the most complicated watch ever created by IWC Schaffhausen. It is the first watch to feature a patented constant-force tourbillon together with many other complications, from sidereal time to a perpetual calendar function, and individually calculated astronomical displays, including a customised celestial chart at the back of the watch.
One of the most intricate watches that Hublot has created has to be the Antikythera Sunmoon, which is a tribute to the Antikythera mechanism, which was mysteriously discovered in Greek waters in 1901 and is considered the first astronomical calculator in history, dating back to the 2nd century BC. The Antikythera Sunmoon is a unique edition of 20 pieces that features a simplified and miniaturised version of the ancient astronomical calculator, with seven different complications. Apart from being able to read the time, the wearer can name the constellation behind the sun and the time when the sun passes through the constellation. The wearer can also track the phases of the moon and the name of the constellation behind it.
In time for its 260th anniversary, Vacheron Constantin has launched its most complicated timepiece to date, with 57 functions, including a dual retrograde rattrapante chronograph and, for the first time, a Hebraic perpetual calendar. All of Reference 57260’s functions are activated or set via discreet sliders and pushers on the side of the case.
background Born in New York State but brought up in the uk, guy bove first entered the world of timepieces when he landed a job as a designer specialising in the watch sector in Lausanne, switzerland. He had just finished degrees in european studies and Product Design. after a fiveyear stint at the design agency, he joined iwc schaffhausen as creative director in 2002 and set up the company’s in-house design studio, where bove says they design everything from logos to boutiques.
after six years at iwc, bove moved to geneva and joined chopard, where his work involved the redesign of the L.u.c collection. subsequently, he was asked to become the product director in charge of design and product development. early this year, he was asked to head up design for Ferdinand berthoud.
Design signature Ferdinand Berthoud’s first watch, the Fb 1 chronometer, pays enormous attention to detail through the shape of the hands, the microblasted sapphire glass seconds ring, the typography, the case shape and dial accents. bove favours hidden details and tiny facets that reflect light, as well as special surface finishes.
Design PHILOSOPHY Bove believes watches are more than a fashion statement: “i feel that they should grow on the wearers over time and that they should be able to continue to discover little details about the product that will make them stay in love with their choice for years to come.”
COOL CALENDARS From top: IWC Schaffhausen’s Portugieser Sidérale Scafusia back and front; Vacheron Constantin’s Reference 57260 pocket watch; Hublot’s Antikythera Sunmoon
SIMPLY SLEEK Newly launched watch brand Ferdinand Berthoud’s FB 1 Chronometer in rose gold