High Five

IWC has cre­ated sev­eral new mod­els to cel­e­brate the clas­sic Por­tugieser’s Ju­bilee an­niver­sary

Hong Kong Tatler - - Tater Focus -

IWC is really kick­ing up its heels this year for the 75th birth­day of its Por­tugieser model. To cel­e­brate, the Swiss man­u­fac­turer has cre­ated fan­tas­tic new ver­sions of the clas­sic de­sign. The Por­tugieser is one of the brand’s old­est and best-known watches and is of­ten con­sid­ered its most pres­ti­gious.

In the 1930s, the de­sign was con­sid­ered to be far ahead of its time and con­tin­ues to in­cor­po­rate a num­ber of cut­ting-edge tech­no­log­i­cal ad­vances—such as a minute re­peater, a per­pet­ual cal­en­dar and a con­stant­force tour­bil­lon.

The un­usual name is said to have orig­i­nated in the 1930s, when a pair of Por­tuguese busi­ness­men were seek­ing a wrist­watch as ac­cu­rate as a marine chronome­ter. In re­sponse, IWC cre­ated a larger pocket watch move­ment and housed it in a wrist­watch case. Sadly, the time­piece be­came un­fash­ion­able un­til it was res­ur­rected in the 1990s.

The new Por­tugieser Hand Wound Eight

Days Edi­tion “75th An­niver­sary” pays trib­ute to a version of the orig­i­nal Por­tugieser, which was less well known than sub­se­quent mod­els but had served as in­spi­ra­tion for IWC’S de­sign­ers and re­mained in a pri­vate col­lec­tion un­til re­cently. This his­toric time­piece in­cor­po­rates all the fea­tures the sought-af­ter range has be­come known for, in­clud­ing its Ara­bic nu­mer­als, slim feuille hands, rail­way-track-style chap­ter ring and small sec­onds lo­cated at 6 o’clock.

The new watch, in 18K red gold with a sil­ver­plated dial, has the same colours and logo of its pre­de­ces­sor, with the ad­di­tion of light green dial el­e­ments on the stain­less-steel version that re­veal a vi­brant con­trast against the black dial, plus a new date dis­play fea­ture on the sub­dial at 6 o’clock.

IWC’S in-house 59215 cal­i­bre move­ment de­pend­ably sup­plies the watch with en­ergy for eight days, so it needs to be wound once a week—a rit­ual tra­di­tion­ally en­joyed by loyal col­lec­tors of this se­ries.

The Por­tugieser Hand-wound Eight Days Edi­tion “75th An­niver­sary” is avail­able in a lim­ited edi­tion of 175 watches in 18K red gold with a sil­ver-plated dial, while the stain­less-steel version with a black dial is lim­ited to 750 watches. All mod­els are fit­ted with ex­clu­sive al­li­ga­tor leather straps pro­duced by Ital­ian shoe­maker San­toni.

Also in­cluded in the new 2015 an­niver­sary col­lec­tion are two ver­sions of the Por­tugieser Per­pet­ual Cal­en­dar: one with a dou­ble moon and one with a sin­gle moon, both with nine func­tions pow­ered by in-house move­ments from IWC’S 52000 cal­i­bre fam­ily. Thanks to a num­ber of discreet de­sign changes, the moon phase dis­plays are not only the vis­ual fo­cus of the di­als, but also the tech­ni­cal high­light of th­ese dis­tin­guished time­pieces.

In the Por­tugieser Per­pet­ual Cal­en­dar with the dou­ble moon, the state of the moon in both the north­ern and southern hemi­spheres is shown. For the first time, the model no longer fea­tures the count­down dis­play that shows the num­ber of days re­main­ing un­til the next full moon. In­stead, IWC’S de­sign­ers have trans­formed the sub­dial with the dou­ble moon dis­play into a star-stud­ded night sky that’s the same colour as the large dial, so that the moon and stars ap­pear to hover in space. An­other new fea­ture of the de­sign is the in­tro­duc­tion of the rail­way-track-style chap­ter ring, which puts the model closer in ap­pear­ance to the clas­sic orig­i­nal. Both watches are fit­ted with er­gonom­i­cally op­ti­mised strap horns and lux­u­ri­ous San­toni al­li­ga­tor leather straps.

Then there’s the new Por­tugieser An­nual Cal­en­dar, which shows the month, date and day in three sep­a­rate, semi­cir­cu­lar win­dows at 12 o’clock. The newly de­vel­oped 52850 cal­i­bre— which took en­gi­neers five years to de­velop—has twin bar­rels to sup­ply the ad­di­tional torque re­quired to ad­vance the three dis­play discs.

Thanks to the new Por­tugieser Per­pet­ual Cal­en­dar Dig­i­tal Date-month Edi­tion “75th An­niver­sary”, the Por­tugieser range now in­cludes a model fea­tur­ing a sig­nif­i­cant dig­i­tal dis­play for the date and month. This ex­cep­tional time­piece brings to­gether all IWC’S ex­per­tise in its in-house 89801 cal­i­bre, which has a per­pet­ual cal­en­dar fea­tur­ing a leap-year indi­ca­tor and quick­ac­tion switch for the large dis­plays as well as a chrono­graph with fly­back func­tion.

TIME TO CEL­E­BRATE Por­tugieser Per­pet­ual Cal­en­dar Dig­i­tal Date-month Edi­tion “75th An­niver­sary” by IWC

SPOILT FOR CHOICE From top: Por­tugieser An­nual Cal­en­dar; Por­tugieser Handwound Eight Days Edi­tion “75th An­niver­sary”; Por­tugieser Per­pet­ual Cal­en­dar with sin­gle moon; Por­tugieser Per­pet­ual Cal­en­dar with dou­ble moon, all by IWC

Newspapers in English

Newspapers from China

© PressReader. All rights reserved.