Smooth as Silk

Dior trans­forms the most cou­ture of fab­rics—silk—into a bril­liant dis­play of pat­tern and mo­tion, writes Em­i­lie Yabut-ra­zon

Hong Kong Tatler - - Style - Pho­tog­ra­phy BRIGITTE NIEDERMAIR Styling IS­ABELLE KOUNTOURE

D Vic­toire de Castel­lane was in­spired by the lux­u­ri­ous sheen of silk in cre­at­ing her lat­est col­lec­tion for Dior Fine Jew­ellery: Soie Dior. White, yel­low and pink gold are sculpted and set with di­a­monds, emer­alds and sap­phires, each piece de­signed to cap­ture a split sec­ond of move­ment as the rib­bons curl, swirl, pleat and twist.

“When you play with a rib­bon, it gives you a com­pletely dif­fer­ent de­sign each time,” says De Castel­lane. There is a piece where a pleat cap­tures a pink sap­phire be­tween two waves in gold pavé, and one where a rib­bon, which ap­pears to have been un­tied just a mo­ment ear­lier, holds a pear-cut di­a­mond sus­pended be­tween two un­du­lat­ing tails.

De Castel­lane got her fas­ci­na­tion for vol­ume and dis­pro­por­tion­ate jew­ellery from the woman who raised her, her glam­orous grand­mother Sylvia Hen­nessy, who lived in a world of writ­ers, Hol­ly­wood stars and fash­ion de­sign­ers. De Castel­lane re­calls, “As a child, her stones, mounted in a very clas­sic man­ner, seemed enor­mous. This dis­pro­por­tion is also found in haute cou­ture, where ball gowns can need up to 500 me­tres of silk—the equiv­a­lent in jew­ellery is a 24-carat stone. It’s about the lit­tle de­tails.” She adds, “When you look at our show and you see the dresses, you can’t imag­ine all the de­tails with­out see­ing them up close. As in life, de­tails are very im­por­tant and, for me, de­tails mean lux­ury.”

Each of the Soie Dior pieces has its own unique con­struc­tion and was fash­ioned us­ing ex­tremely chal­leng­ing set­ting tech­niques, be­cause, for De Castel­lane, there is no per­fect shape. “In jew­ellery de­sign, it’s more im­por­tant to find the right bal­ance. Beauty can be so many things—from clas­si­cal to strange—but for me, it’s some­thing that gives you emo­tion.”

Newspapers in English

Newspapers from China

© PressReader. All rights reserved.