On Re­serve

Hong Kong Tatler - - Life -

If the qual­ity of the 2010 Brunel­los is any in­di­ca­tion, the im­pend­ing release of the Ris­er­vas will have Brunello lovers on the edge of their seats. Com­pared with the reg­u­lar bot­tlings, the Ris­er­vas are more struc­tured and tan­nic; prices are bound to spike when they are re­leased into the mar­ket next year. James Suck­ling tasted about 70 this year in Tus­cany. Here are his top five—all per­fect scores

casanova di neri Brunello di Mon­tal­cino cer­re­talto Very tan­nic and pow­er­ful, with loads of cur­rants, spices and hints of wood. So much stone and min­eral char­ac­ter, as well as vi­o­lets. Full­bod­ied, tight and struc­tured. Mas­sively dense, yet ag­ile and bright. Goes on for min­utes. Needs at least three or four years to soften. Try it in 2020.

100 points

ci­acci Pic­colo­mini d’arag­ona Brunello di Mon­tal­cino vigna di Pian­rosso santa ca­te­rina d’oro Aro­mas of plums, flow­ers, mush­rooms and vi­o­lets. Full-bod­ied, with firm and silky tan­nins un­derneath the ex­quis­ite fruit. Beau­ti­ful bal­ance and a bril­liantly long fin­ish that goes on for min­utes. Drink or hold.

100 points

As­sunto Brunello di Mon­tal­cino Beau­ti­ful aro­mas and flavours of earth, berries, mush­rooms and leaves. Full-bod­ied, plus a crazy cen­tre palate of fruit with chocolate-cov­ered cher­ries and hints of oak. Fan­tas­tic depth and tan­nin struc­ture. From 30-year-old vines that yield tiny grapes— and with 40 months in bar­rel—this is wine off the charts. Give it two or three years in bot­tle.

100 points

san Filippo Brunello di Mon­tal­cino le lucére Su­perb con­cen­tra­tion and depth on this tri­umphant young Brunello. Full-bod­ied, chewy yet pol­ished tan­nins, and min­eral, oys­ter shell and blue­berry flavours. Goes on for min­utes. Leave it un­til 2020.

100 points

re­nieri Brunello di Mon­tal­cino Breath­tak­ing young Brunello with pre­ci­sion and com­plex­ity. Shows vi­o­lets, black­ber­ries, bram­ble berries, tea leaves and min­er­als, as well as un­der­tones of stone. Full-bod­ied with a com­pressed palate and firm, vel­vety tan­nins. Pow­er­ful and long—truly fan­tas­tic. Bet­ter in 2018.

100 points

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