Time Trav­els

This sea­son, Cartier presents two col­lec­tions that will ap­peal to men on the move

Hong Kong Tatler - - Tater Focus -

If you’re strug­gling to find a Christ­mas stock­ing filler for the men in your life, Cartier has a couple of pos­si­bil­i­ties that are sure to be grate­fully re­ceived. The dis­tin­guished French jew­ellery brand and il­lus­tri­ous house of haute hor­logerie may have been a late-starter when it came to cre­at­ing in­no­va­tive and com­plex watches for men in-house, but it has swiftly be­come an undis­puted in­dus­try front-run­ner, in­tro­duc­ing 17 new men’s me­chan­i­cal time­pieces and nine new man­u­fac­ture move­ments in the past two years alone. An im­pres­sive achieve­ment for a com­pany that only be­gan making watch move­ments in-house in 2008.

In­cluded in those launches are a num­ber of time­pieces in “ac­ces­si­ble” price brack­ets that fea­ture such move­ments. Th­ese in­clude the Ronde Croisière de Cartier col­lec­tion. Croisière is French for cruise, so this is the brand’s cruise col­lec­tion, also known as a re­sort col­lec­tion. Per­fect for the man con­sid­er­ing get­ting away from it all on a win­ter va­ca­tion. Smart/ca­sual, stylish/sporty, this time­piece is surely in­tended to be worn while play­ing quoits on an ocean liner, tan­ning the body beau­ti­ful by the Riviera or sip­ping sun­down­ers on deck while be­ing lulled by gen­tly lap­ping waves.

The Ronde de Croisière Cartier time­piece, as the name might sug­gest, has a round face; which is also flat and wide, making it prac­ti­cal, se­cure and com­fort­able enough to be worn ca­su­ally, but suf­fi­ciently smart to make the tran­si­tion to re­laxed evening en­ter­tain­ment. You could say this retro-in­spired ca­sual sports watch is some­what un­der­stated com­pared to the sharper rec­tan­gu­lar shapes for which the brand is so well known. The black calf­skin strap that looks a lot like can­vas fab­ric, adds to the in­for­mal ap­pear­ance and feel and, at 42mm, it is the ideal size for men.

It is wa­ter re­sis­tant (to 100 me­tres) rather than wa­ter­proof, so a bet­ter op­tion for yachties than Olympic swim­mers or deep-sea divers.

The much talked about in-house move­ment is the self-wind­ing 1847MC, named af­ter the date Cartier was founded; was con­ceived, de­vel­oped and as­sem­bled in the com­pany’s Swiss work­shops.

This time­piece is avail­able in three vari­a­tions: steel with a sil­ver dial and black hands; steel with a grey dial and steel hands; steel with a grey dial and pink-gold tone hands. Plus all the fea­tures one has come to ex­pect from Cartier: Ro­man nu­mer­als, rail­track, cabochon sword-shaped hands and guil­loche dial. The thin case (9.77mm thick) with shorter lugs gives this watch a retro look—circa 1950s-60s. It’s an all-pur­pose, ca­sual sports watch that would be a wel­come stock­ing filler.

The Rotonde de Cartier 42mm Sec­ond Time Zone Day / Night is the lat­est ad­di­tion to the col­lec­tion and in­cludes the in-house move­ment whose name ref­er­ences the year the mai­son’s founder, Louis Cartier, cre­ated the first men’s watch for the brand: the 1904-FU MC smaller-com­pli­ca­tion cal­iber is very use­ful for those who travel a lot. The move­ment com­prises 230 parts and in­cludes tra­di­tional fin­ish­ing such as cotes de Gen­eve on the plates, the bridges and the wind­ing ro­tor. FU refers to ‘fuse­aux’, a French ref­er­ence to the sec­ond time zone dis­play which will help en­sure you don’t call your im­por­tant over­seas con­tacts in the mid­dle of the night, while the in­clu­sion of mas­sive date num­bers (in the win­dow at 6 o’clock po­si­tion) means you don’t have to squint to see what day it is. The sec­ond time zone is marked via a 1 to 12 ret­ro­grade scale in the up­per left dial, which can be ad­vanced in one-hour in­cre­ments by press­ing the crown. There is a day/night aper­ture near four o’clock and a run­ning small sec­onds counter in the 6 o’clock po­si­tion.

This very at­trac­tive watch is avail­able in a white gold (which is lim­ited to 300 pieces), pink gold or steel case, this Rotonde de Cartier fea­tures a sil­vered or a rather lovely shiny blue enamel dial, a sap­phire back and a crown set with a sap­phire cabochon or syn­thetic cabochon-shaped spinel for the steel model. Ad­di­tional dec­o­ra­tive el­e­ments in­clude two dif­fer­ent guil­loche mo­tifs and Breguet-style hands with cut-off Ro­man nu­mer­als.

It’s au­to­matic wind­ing, while the power re­serve is around 48 hours and is strap is al­li­ga­tor with a dou­ble ad­justable de­ploy­ant buckle match­ing the case metal.

The prices for th­ese col­lec­tions—de­scribed as “ac­ces­si­ble”—are so good it’s al­most as though you’ve trav­elled back­wards in time.

The new Ronde Croisière de Cartier col­lec­tion comes in steel with a sil­ver or grey dial and two-toned steel with grey dial

DAP­PER MALES The Rotonde de Cartier 42mm Sec­ond Time Zone Day/night comes in a lim­ited edi­tion white gold with blue dial, stain­less steel, and pink gold

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