Mak­ing the Cut

De­signer Ni­rav Modi shares some of his jew­ellery-mak­ing se­crets as his brand presents its lat­est col­lec­tion in Hong Kong, writes Em­i­lie Yabut-ra­zon

Hong Kong Tatler - - Style -

From left: Ni­rav Modi in his Mum­bai of­fice; the Hong Kong bou­tique; Modi with Anita Yuen n el­e­gantly suited Ni­rav Modi sits in the in­ti­mate par­lour of his epony­mous jew­ellery brand’s Hong Kong bou­tique, which is a far cry from his 28,000sqft Mum­bai head­quar­ters. In­di­an­born Modi is here to present to spe­cial clients his lat­est line, Lu­mi­nance. Like the rest of his range, it pares the metal to a min­i­mum and max­imises the vis­ual im­pact of the di­a­monds.

The soft-spo­ken de­signer says he has al­ways aimed to cre­ate pieces that stand out, a goal clearly achieved in Lu­mi­nance. The flower-themed line in­cludes rings, earrings, ear cuffs and neck­laces cre­ated with a mix of di­a­mond cuts—bril­liant, old, rose and a spe­cial pear-shaped cut called Jas­mine in which the di­a­monds are an­gled a cer­tain way to en­hance their bril­liance. All the stones are set en trem­blant, cre­at­ing move­ment.

“Ev­ery cut has a pur­pose,” says Modi, who has patented three of them. “We don’t cre­ate the cut just to add facets; we do it for a rea­son, and it’s usu­ally to make the pieces light, with lit­tle metal and bril­liant stones. They move with you.” Modi adds that in his line of work, in­no­va­tion is im­por­tant. “I want my pieces to be com­fort­able but be made of the finest qual­ity pos­si­ble. It’s a com­bi­na­tion of art and en­gi­neer­ing.”

One of Modi’s great in­no­va­tions is the Em­brace ban­gle, which is made of metal and di­a­monds but stretches like elas­tic. “It took us two years and 800 dif­fer­ent parts to achieve,” he says. The in­spi­ra­tion for it came while he was watch­ing his daugh­ters play­ing with plas­tic ban­gles. “I thought, why can’t women have fun with their jew­ellery?” The Em­brace, which


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