American designer Jason Basmajian left Gieves & Hawkes, the Savile Row tailor he reinvigorated over his three-year tenure as creative director, late last year to take the helm at Cerruti 1881. His debut collection demonstrates his intention to take the brand back to its glory days when Nino Cerruti’s vision was at the cutting edge of menswear. Basmajian’s vision for winter 2016 comes in a tight palette of mineral shades, earth tones and granite, with accents of deep plum and camel. “Cerruti has always been a symbol of sophisticated male elegance,” says Basmajian. “Both relaxed and self-confident, the house’s signature tailoring focuses on cut, fabrics and textures.” And it is tailoring, unsurprisingly, that underpins the whole winter 2016 collection, with wonderfully wearable two-button suits a standout. The fabrics are interesting—tweed is woven in twill for jogging trousers, shearling is fused with water-resistant flannel, a sports parka with leather trim—while fully reversible leather jackets and shearling overcoats and blousons make for ideal everyday wear. It is all innovative, but none of it is alienating. A rare and difficult balancing act.