Old school

De­sign­ers are chan­nelling a bold aes­thetic and tech­niques that pre­date the Ro­man Em­pire. Char­lene Co dis­cov­ers lav­ishly tex­tured pieces that will add char­ac­ter to your col­lec­tion

Hong Kong Tatler - - | Style Jewellery -

pu­lently tex­tured jew­ellery crafted in pre­cious metal and echo­ing the raw yet ex­trav­a­gant aes­thetic of the an­cient Etr­uscans is be­com­ing in­creas­ingly pop­u­lar in a so­phis­ti­cated mar­ket that’s clam­our­ing for some­thing dif­fer­ent. To meet such de­mand, to­day’s jewellers are re­turn­ing to the old-school crafts of carv­ing, gran­u­la­tion and ham­mer­ing.

Cartier, for ex­am­ple, this year un­veiled a play­ful high jew­ellery col­lec­tion in­spired by the cac­tus, giv­ing the prickly plant a gilded edge. The pieces are sculp­tural and tex­tured, as seen in this pair of 18K yel­low­gold ear­rings set with bril­liant-cut di­a­monds. Gi­ampiero Bodino has cre­ated a richly tex­tured rose-gold cuff called the Mo­saico fea­tur­ing hand-en­graved cir­cu­lar pat­terns in­spired by Ital­ian mo­saics.

French de­signer Aurélie Bi­der­mann’s Athina cuff, which fea­tures daisies en­graved from 18-karat yel­low gold, is both play­ful and lux­u­ri­ous. Lon­don-based de­signer and jew­ellery sculp­tor Sabine Roe­mer has crafted a stun­ning Fal­con ring in 18-karat pink gold set with hand-carved tour­ma­line feath­ers and white di­a­monds.

Hong Kong jew­eller Het­ing, mean­while, has beau­ti­fully en­riched its na­ture-in­spired En­chanted For­est col­lec­tion with pieces that com­bine sup­ple lines and op­u­lent tex­tures. Het­ing founder and artis­tic di­rec­tor Ca­rina Wong drew on her ex­per­tise in wood-carv­ing and gold­smithing to cre­ate this or­gan­ic­shaped Golden Berry ring from 18-karat rose gold and black rhodium gold, and set it with South Sea keshi pearls, pink sap­phires and white di­a­monds.

Pi­aget has added di­men­sion to its clas­sic Alti­plano watch by carv­ing leaves from a sheet of solid pink gold and hand-en­grav­ing their trac­ery of veins be­fore set­ting them on the mother-of-pearl dial.

If you’re look­ing for a change from the sleek and pol­ished look, these ruggedly hand­some pieces are tempt­ing propo­si­tions. From left: Mo­saico cuff by Gi­ampiero Bodino; Cac­tus de Cartier ear­rings by Cartier; Alti­plano watch from the Sunny Side of Life col­lec­tion by Pi­aget; Fal­con ring by Sabine Roe­mer; Athina cuff by Aurélie Bi­der­mann; Golden Berry ring by Het­ing

gilded trin­kets

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