Glenn Martens, the Paris-based designer from Bruges, is the creative mastermind behind streetwear brand Y/project. The label was founded by Frenchmen Yohan Serfaty and Gilles Elalouf in 2010, and in 2013 they invited Martens to take the helm. Martens added womenswear and the brand’s profile rocketed, becoming a go-to for Rihanna. It now has the cult status of Vetements and Jacquemus. Marten’s AW17 collection is an eclectic mix of deconstructed hip-hop and romantic vibes. It’s a masterful play on duality— historical references to royalty mirrored with today’s hip-hop icons. Particular highlights are deconstructed fake fur, silk and corduroy suits, oversized fleece sweatshirts, and trousers with voluminous wired piping. Football scarves emblazoned with historical power couples such as Henry VIII and Anne Boleyn, and Louis XVI and Marie Antoinette add Instagrammability and a quirky edge. This is regency as street; Jay Z meets Napoleon, if you will.