Hong Kong Tatler - - Milan -

In the show notes, cre­ative di­rec­tor Alessan­dro Michele com­pared his role to that of an al­chemist. In his fifth col­lec­tion for the Ital­ian house, he con­tin­ues to wield the Midas touch, in­ten­si­fy­ing his ec­cen­tric, pan-sex­ual mag­pie aes­thetic in a col­lec­tion of 120 looks rich in ref­er­ences. Michele’s max­i­mal­ism is a giddy whirl of Vic­to­rian Eng­land and the Re­nais­sance, ’70s disco, ’80s ex­cess and ’90s lo­go­ma­nia, with lots of colour and tex­ture, more em­bel­lish­ments than a Lib­er­ace trib­ute (those cock­tail rings!), and clever nods to Asia and South Amer­ica— some­times in one look. Stand­outs in­cluded a pur­ple se­quinned coat with curlicue-em­bel­lished cuffs that could have been a trib­ute to the late Prince, a white Gucci Bam­boo bag that was a throw­back to the 1947 orig­i­nal, and Carn­aby Street-in­spired coats. Groovy, baby.

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