In the show notes, creative director Alessandro Michele compared his role to that of an alchemist. In his fifth collection for the Italian house, he continues to wield the Midas touch, intensifying his eccentric, pan-sexual magpie aesthetic in a collection of 120 looks rich in references. Michele’s maximalism is a giddy whirl of Victorian England and the Renaissance, ’70s disco, ’80s excess and ’90s logomania, with lots of colour and texture, more embellishments than a Liberace tribute (those cocktail rings!), and clever nods to Asia and South America— sometimes in one look. Standouts included a purple sequinned coat with curlicue-embellished cuffs that could have been a tribute to the late Prince, a white Gucci Bamboo bag that was a throwback to the 1947 original, and Carnaby Street-inspired coats. Groovy, baby.