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Paso Robles is a popular destination for everyone from wine lovers to betrothed couples.帕索罗布尔斯产区,成为深受葡萄酒爱好者和未婚夫妇欢迎的热门旅游胜地。

Jet Asia Pacific - - Contents - Text by Rob Mcgovern

尊翔目的地

Located equidistant from both San Francisco and Los Angeles on California's Central Coast, Paso Robles is well-known to Californian (and to lesser extent American) wine lovers, but it is still a relative secret for international visitors thanks to the huge shadow cast by California’s wine heavyweights Napa and Sonoma.

IN VINO VERITAS

An American Viticulture Area made up of over 600,000 acres that has been divided into 11 subregions, Paso Robles produces high-quality Bordeaux, Rhone and Italian varieties, among the 40 plus varieties grown in the region, thanks to warm days, marine breezes and a range of elevations and soil types.

The Paso Robles Cab Collective is a group of winemakers that formed in 2012 with the belief that the best red Bordeaux varieties in the world are produced in Paso Robles. In a late 2016 issue of Robert Parker’s The Wine Advocate (probably the world’s most respected wine magazine), CAB Collective members were awarded dozens of scores well above 90 points for their Bordeaux-style wines, including 98 points and 96 points for DAOU Vineyards & Winery’s 2013 Patrimony and 2013 Soul of a Lion, respectively.

With so many wineries and delicious wines to try, it is a good idea to head to Paso’s quaint downtown where almost two dozen tasting rooms await and spend an afternoon tasting and talking to local experts to get a feel for what is on offer before heading into the hills to visit the wineries themselves.

DRIVE TO DISTRACTION

The best way to enjoy the region, both for its wine and beauty, is to take a leisurely drive to several wineries to sip and swirl some samples, taking a few of your favourite bottles with you to savour later. There is a convenient loop that starts and ends downtown offering a chance to see some scenery and visit several wineries.

Head west from downtown and around six miles down the winding, tree-lined Peachy Canyon Road you will come to Michael Gill Cellars. The small winery produces just 1,000 cases in full production, which is just how founder Michel Gill likes it so production can be controlled and quality maintained. Limestone-rich soil, hot days and cool nights are perfect for Syrah, Viognier, and Counoise, but Zinfandel, Vermentino, Alicante Bouschet and Tempranillo are also produced. The proof, of course, is in both the drinking and the awards, and Gill isn’t afraid to put his wines up against anyone; rightly so if his haul of awards is anything to go by. The tasting room was inspired by French hunting lodges and the patio outside overlooks the vines, and is the perfect place for everything from an afternoon of vinous indulgence to a pastoral wedding ceremony.

Thirteen or so miles northwest is Justin Vineyards and Winery. Another winery dedicated to producing world-class Bordeauxstyle blends, the first vineyard was planted in 1981. Eons of marine deposits have left this area rich in fossilised limestone which is perfect for the big, Bordeaux-style reds. In the pursuit

帕索罗布尔斯产区位于美国加利福尼亚州中部海岸,处于旧金山和洛杉矶之间,一直广为加州(以及部分美国地区)的葡萄酒爱好者所认识。但对于国际游客来说,在加州葡萄酒巨头纳帕和索诺玛的名气掩盖下,它相对仍然是一个秘密胜地。

酒庄探秘

帕索罗布尔斯的葡萄种植区面积超过600,000英亩,分成11个次产区,全赖温暖的气候、凉爽的海风、以及多样性的海拔和土壤,产区出产超过40个葡萄品种,包括高品质的波尔多、罗讷河谷和意大利品种。

一群酿酒师于2012年成立帕索罗布尔斯Cab Collective,坚守全球最优质的波尔多红葡萄品种是产于帕索罗布尔斯的信念。由罗伯特∙帕克创办的《葡萄酒倡导家》(可能是世界上最权威的葡萄酒评分报告杂志)于2016年底的最新出版中,多个CAB Collective成员所酿制的波尔多风格葡萄酒均获得90分以上的高分,其中达欧酒庄的2013 Patrimony和2013 “狮子的灵魂”干红葡萄酒分别得到98分和96分。

有那么多的酒庄和美味的葡萄酒,最好先前往古朴的市中心,那里有二十多个品酒室,可以花一个下午品尝葡萄酒,并与当地专家交流,了解一下当地出产的葡萄酒,然后再前往山里参观酒庄。

品酒之路

无论是享受当地出产的葡萄酒,还是欣赏醉人的风景,游览该地区的最佳方式都是轻松地自驾游——驾车前往不同酒庄,品尝一下样品,再带回几瓶心头爱留待之后细味享受。以下建议的行程,是以市中心为出发点和终点站,让您可以一边饱览美丽风光,一边参观不同酒庄。

从市中心出发,向西沿着绿树成荫的蜿蜒Peachy Canyon Road行驶约六英里,就会到达Michael Gill Cellars。这家小酒庄仅生产大约1,000箱葡萄酒,所有工序均在酒庄内完成,以控制生产过程,保持出品质量,这也是始创人Michel Gill的理念。丰富石灰质的土壤、炎热的白天和凉爽的夜晚,最适合种植西拉、维欧尼、古诺瓦兹等葡萄品种,此外也会种植仙粉黛、维蒙蒂诺、紫北塞和丹魄等品种。Gill对自家生产的葡萄酒充满信心,无惧任何挑战,其葡萄酒的味道,以及不断获得的奖项,就是最好的证明。其品酒室的设计受法国狩猎小屋所启发,户外庭院俯瞰着葡萄园,是下午浅酌一番、以至举办田园婚礼的完美场地。

西北十三多英里外,是贾斯汀酒庄。创建于1981年,贾斯汀酒庄是另一家致力生产世界级波尔多风格混酿葡萄酒的酒庄。经年累积的海洋沉积物,使该地区富含石灰成分,最适合种植波尔多大红葡萄。为追求完美,许多酒庄将旧世界的传统与现代科技互相结合。

贾斯汀酒庄以人手采收葡萄,然后将葡萄放在细小的法国橡木桶内进行熟成。为筛选最优质的葡萄,其酿酒师发明了“气刀”,以确保只有最佳的葡萄才能进入下一阶段,因此能够酿制出一流的葡萄酒,并屡获奖项。除了品酒体验和贾斯汀酒庄餐厅提供的当地美食,当然少不了来自世界各地的酒单,和产自酒庄的稀有葡萄酒。想留宿的话,可以人住贾斯汀酒庄的Just Inn旅馆,三间当代设计风格的套房与品酒室仅数步之遥。

从北部回程时经过Adelaida Road,就来到达欧酒庄。这个占地212英亩的酒庄统称为达欧山,仅有十年历史,原名为何夫曼山酒庄。何夫曼山酒庄于60年代开业时,被视为该地区的现代化酿酒先驱。

of perfection, many wineries combine Old World tradition with modern technology.

At Justin, grapes are harvested by hand and aged in small French oak barrels, but to get the most excellent grapes, their winemakers invented the ‘Air Knife’ to ensure only the best make it to the next stage. Great wines and awards followed. Tasting tours and the Restaurant at Justin offers local food and, obviously, a good wine list with wines from around the world and rarities from the cellar. If you want to stay over, Justin has accommodation at the Just Inn. The three suites are walking distance from the tasting room and are decorated in a contemporary style.

Heading back towards town on the northern part of the loop on Adelaida Road you will come to Daou Vineyard and Winery. The 212-acre estate, collectively called Daou Mountain, is only a decade old, but sits on what used to be Hoffman Ranch Winery which is widely considered to be the originator of modern winemaking in the region when it opened in the 1960s.

The beautiful winery is a temple dedicated to Bordeaux with Cabernet Sauvignon being the main grape grown. Located entirely in the Adelaida subregion of the Paso Robles AVA, the winery is serious business with the region’s only automated optical sorter and a proprietary local yeast that was cultured from Daou Mountain after an incredible five-year process. Robert Parker rated all of Daou’s current wines at 90 or above.

A few miles further down the road is Villicana Winery and while they undoubtedly have good wines, it is worth visiting for the associated craft distillery. Re:find Winery owners Alex and Monica Villicana wanted to essentially create a new product from what would otherwise be waste, in this case the free-run juice from red wine grapes that is ‘bled’ to concentrate and enhance quality. By fermenting and then triple distilling the saignée, Re:find was born.

The first craft distillery in Paso Robles, Re:find currently produces vodka, gin, barrel-aged vodka, rye whiskey, bourbon and seasonal flavoured spirits such as limoncello, cucumber vodka and kumquat liqueur.

If you are just passing through Paso and don’t have time for a full day touring around, consider a visit to Vina Robles Vineyards and Winery. The estate has six vineyards that surround Paso with each one having its own character thanks to unique combinations of elevation, soil and microclimate. At the heart of the winery is the hospitality centre a few miles east of downtown. The Mission-style complex is home to a tasting room where visitors can sample the latest releases or enjoy a food tasting experience. The winery also welcomes people to bring their own picnics to enjoy with their wines. An added bonus for visitors to Vina Robles is the amphitheatre, a 3,300-seat venue that brings all kinds to the region, from thrash metal band Slayer to Jay Leno.

The very drinkable estate wines are reasonably priced but even the estate’s most expensive wine, the 2013 Suendero, a meritage wine (a Bordeaux-style wine that doesn’t infringe on the

French region's legally protected designation of origin), is less than US$60 a bottle.

VINA ROBLES GUESTHOUSE

If, on the other hand, you do have time to stay, check out Vina Robles Guesthouse at Pleasant Valley. The spacious four-bedroom home has fantastic views of the surrounding wine country. The recently renovated property has a fully equipped kitchen, office and two patios making it perfect for families or groups. Guests also enjoy a complimentary wine tasting at the Vina Robles Hospitality Center. www.vinarobles.com

这座美丽的酒庄,是一座向波尔多致敬的神殿,主要种植的葡萄品种是赤霞珠。整个酒庄位于帕索罗布尔斯葡萄种植区的Adelaida次产区,拥有该地区唯一的自动光学分选机,以及由达欧山经过五年精心培植的专利当地酵母,对酿酒工序绝对是一丝不苟。罗伯特∙帕克将达欧酒庄现有的所有葡萄酒均评为90分或以上。

沿路再走几英里,是维利卡纳酒厂。除了优质的葡萄酒,其手工酿酒厂Re:find Winery也相当值得参观。为使葡萄酒变得更浓缩以提升质量,酿造红葡萄酒的葡萄会经过“放血”,而Re:find Winery的拥有者Alex Villicana和Monica Villicana希望运用这些原本会被浪费掉的精华来创造新产品。“放血”出来的葡萄汁经过发酵,然后三次蒸馏, Re:find就此诞生。

Re:find是帕索罗布尔斯产区的首家手工酿酒厂,目前生产伏特加酒、杜松子酒、桶装伏特加、黑麦威士忌、波本威士忌和季节性调味烈酒,如柠檬酒、黄瓜伏特加和金桔利口酒。

如果您只是途经帕索罗布尔斯,并没有时间参观一整天,不妨考虑前往维娜罗伯斯酒厂。该酒厂拥有六个环绕着帕索罗布尔斯的葡萄园,由于多样性的海拔、土壤和微气候的独特组合,每个葡萄园都有自己的特色。在酒厂的中心,是距离帕索罗布尔斯市中心以东数英里的接待中心。美式风格的建筑设有品酒室,游客可以品尝最新出产的葡萄酒,或者享受美食体验,酒厂也欢迎客人携带野餐食物来配搭其葡萄酒。维娜罗伯斯酒厂还为参观者带来额外的节目,就是圆形剧场。这个设有3,300个座位的场地汇聚该地区各种各样的表演,从激流金属乐队Slayer到Jay Leno,应有尽有。

这里出售的优质葡萄酒价格合理,即使是酒厂最昂贵的葡萄酒2013 Suendero(一种波尔多风格的混酿葡萄酒,不侵犯法国地区受法律保护的原产地名称),也只售60美元一瓶。

维娜罗伯斯旅

另一方面,如果有时间停留的话,不妨入住位于欢乐谷的维娜罗伯斯旅館。这座宽敞的四卧室旅館坐拥周边葡萄酒乡的美景。旅館最近经过翻新,拥有设备齐全的厨房、办公室和两个庭院,非常适合家庭或团体入住。客人还可以在维娜罗伯斯旅館接待中心享受免费品酒。www.vinarobles.com

ALLEGRETTO VINEYARD RESORT

If you’re looking for something a little less hands on, take your haul of wine (and maybe something a little stronger from Re:find) and head to Allegretto Vineyard Resort.

On the east side of town and close to a few golf courses, the regional airport and Vina Robles, Allegretto is set on 20 acres that, in keeping with the region, includes vines and olive trees. The Tuscan-style property has a large courtyard that is the perfect setting for a few glasses of the wine you will have undoubtedly picked up along your travels. Alternatively, reserve a poolside cabana and enjoy a few with a plate of local produce from Cello Ristorante, the property’s Mediterranean-inspired restaurant.

After a long day touring, dinner at Cello Ristorante is a good idea, both for practical reasons because the food served by Chef Eric Olsen is both innovative and superb and made with local ingredients, both farmed and foraged.

To really relax and unwind, Spa Allegretto offers everything from quick treatments to full-day packages. allegrettovineyardresort.com

HOTEL CHEVAL

Elsewhere in Paso Robles, there is Hotel Cheval. Sitting just off Paso Robles' historic town square, the boutique hotel is as quirky as it is charming - the property has a dedicated S'mores Butler who makes complimentary S'mores by the fire every evening between dusk and 10pm. With just 16 tastefully decorated rooms and a stellar reputation, it is advisable to book well in advance.

Although Paso Robles is definitely wine country, there are other industries here, notably olive oil (the Daou brothers even produce their own oil from olives grown on property in a nod to their Lebanese heritage). For the full olive oil experience you could visit Pasolivio Ranch. Located between Michael Gill Cellars and Justin Winery, they offer free tastings and tours of the olive press. There is also a tasting room downtown. The ‘liquid gold’ is even celebrated in Paso every June with the Paso Robles Olive festival.

COAST TO COAST

For those with a little more time, consider a day trip out of town. Paso Robles is just 30 miles from the California Coast and there are several towns worth your consideration. Morro Bay, a city of 10,000 that is just 10 square miles (half of which is water) has six beaches, a beautiful state park and one of the Nine Sisters, a chain of volcanic mountains. Another 20 miles down the coast is Avila Beach. A lovely little beach community, it is perfect for a picnic on the beach or just a stroll down the boardwalk. As small as it is, there are still half a dozen accommodation options, plenty of down-toearth eateries, and of course, several wine tasting rooms.

如果想寻找豪华一点的住宿,那么就拿起您的葡萄酒(也许是来自Re:find的比较浓烈一点的葡萄酒),然后前往阿勒格瑞托葡萄园度假酒店。

阿勒格瑞托葡萄园度假酒店位于市中心以东,靠近几个高尔夫球场、区域机场和维娜罗伯斯酒厂,占地20英亩,比邻该地区的葡萄园和橄榄树。这家托斯卡纳风格的酒店拥有一个大庭院,绝对是让您品尝在旅途中搜罗到的心水葡萄酒的理想场地。此外,也可以选择预订一间池畔小屋,一边品尝美酒,一边享用酒店的地中海风格餐厅Cello Ristorante炮制的当地佳肴。

经过漫长的一日旅程,选择在Cello Ristorante享用晚餐是一个不错的主意,除了因为方便,更因为主厨Eric Olsen所炮制的食物既新颖又出色,菜色全采用当地养殖和捕捞的食材制作,保证让您品尝到最地道的风味。

想真正放松和休息, Spa Allegretto提供快速护理到全日套餐等一切服务。allegrettovineyardresort.com

舍弗尔酒店

舍弗尔酒店同样位于帕索罗布尔斯,坐落在历史悠久的市中心广场附近。这家精品酒店设有专门制作S'mores的篝火管家,每天黄昏至晚上10点之间,会用篝火制作免费的S'mores甜品,充满迷人的异国风情。酒店仅设有16间装饰高雅的客房,而且非常有名,建议提前预订。

虽然帕索罗布尔斯绝对是葡萄酒之乡,但这里还有其他行业,最著名的是橄榄油(达欧兄弟甚至用自己庄园种植的橄榄生产橄榄油,向他们的黎巴嫩血统致敬)。想享受完整的橄榄油体验,可以到访Pasolivio Ranch。位于Michael Gill Cellars与贾斯汀酒庄之间, Pasolivio Ranch让游客免费品尝橄榄油,和一睹橄榄压榨过程。市中心还设有一个橄榄油品尝室。帕索罗布尔斯每年六月更举办橄榄油节,以歌颂这种“液体黄金”。

从海岸到海岸

对于那些有多一点时间的游客,可以考虑一下出城一日游。帕索罗布尔斯距离加利福尼亚海岸仅30英里,附近有几个值得游览的城镇。莫罗湾是一个只拥有10平方英里(其中一半是水)、10,000人口的城市,这里有六个海滩、一个美丽的国家公园、和其中一座「九姊妹」史前火山。沿着海岸再走20英里,还有阿维拉海滩。这个可爱的小海滩社区,最适合在沙滩上野餐或漫步在木板路上。这个城镇面积虽小,但仍有六家住宿选择、大量实惠的餐馆、当然还有几家品酒室。

Justin Vineyards and Winery looks out to rolling fields贾斯汀酒庄俯瞰葡萄园美景

Re:find Winery Re:find Winery旅馆

Justin Vineyard and Winery贾斯汀酒庄

Re:find goes beyond wines在Re:find感受超越葡萄酒的体验

Great grapes make great vino优质葡萄酿制出一流的葡萄酒

Get a sample of the latest and greatest at the Vina Robles Guesthouse维娜在维娜罗伯斯旅館品尝最新顶级酒版

Vina Robles Guesthouse维娜罗伯斯旅館

Allegretto Vineyard Resort阿勒格瑞托葡萄园度假酒店

Hotel Cheval舍弗尔酒店

Hotel Cheval has a — wait for it — S’mores butler舍弗尔酒店设有令人期待的S’mores管家

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