SIMPLER TIMES

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The 2018 Baselworld exhibition from March 22 to 27 saw a substantial decline in exhibitors, likely due to the economic downturn. The brands with enough stamina to remain are the ones with true tenacity; the ones who sell substance rather than superfluousness and ones whose designs have withstood the test

of time. Here, we give a toast to classics. 2018瑞士巴塞尔国际钟表珠宝展于3月22日至27日举行,可能是由于经济不景,今年的参展商数目大幅减少,能够坚持参展的品牌,绝对是真金不怕洪炉火,其产品不靠花巧而是靠实力,设计也经得起时间的考验。让我们为经典而喝彩! Text by Joyce Yip

BREGUET 宝玑CLASSIQUE TOURBILLON EXTRA-PLAT AUTOMATIQUE 5367 CLASSIQUE TOURBILLON EXTRA-PLAT AUTOMATIQUE 5367 腕表

Pairing the Grandes Complications DNA with a Grand Feu enamel dial, the newest watch has been deliberately pared down to essentials with the focus drawn immediately to the graphic hand-bevelled tourbillon bar. Though aesthetically understated, its bridges, barrel and oscillating weight are all hand- engraved and the latter crafted in platinum for greater inertia within the 7.45mm thick case. The Calibre 581 promises a comfortable 80-hour power reserve, thanks to the “high- energy” barrel. The watch is available in rose gold or platinum versions.将宝玑经典复杂系列的基因配上“大明火”珐琅表盘,这款最新腕表以精美简约的方式演绎陀飞轮,并将目光聚焦于一条手工倒角装饰的陀飞轮横杆之上。尽管这款腕表的外观极为低调,但机芯仍带有丰富的装饰。表桥、发条盒及振动坠均饰以手工镌刻图案,而振动坠以铂金制成,具有更大的惯量性。腕表厚度只有7.45毫米,装配581机芯,确保为腕表提供80小时动力储备。这款腕表备有玫瑰金或白金版款式供选择。

BLANCPAIN 宝珀VILLERET QUANTIÈME COMPLET GMT VILLERET系列两地时间全历腕表

Since the 1980’s, Blancpain’s complete calendar moonphase display has been a signature of the house: day of week and month tucked in windows; the date indicated via supplemental blued serpentine-shaped hand; home time shown with a red-tipped hand and a moon phase at six o’clock. Adding the GMT function elevates the timepiece to high complication now featuring superior anti-magnetic and timing precision properties. Under-lug correctors allow the setting of all calendar and moon phase indications with just our fingertips.自上世纪80年代以来,宝珀的全历月相腕表就成为了表厂最引以为傲的代表作。其经典的表面布局包括了以窗口显示星期及月份,蓝色的蛇形指针沿着表盘游走指示日期,六时位的月相窗口给表面设计带来四平八稳的平衡感,而家乡时间指针则在尖端添上一抹红色令指示更加清晰。如今腕表再加上GMT两地时间显示,成为一枚十足的高级复杂杰作。凭着其出色的防磁性能带来了无比的精确走时功能,表耳下方的专利隐藏式调校器,让你毋须依靠专门工具,单凭指掌就能调校所有日期、月相等显示功能。

JAQUET DROZ 雅克德罗GRANDE SECONDE MOON BLACK ENAMEL黑色珐琅月相大秒针

Paying homage to the significance of the moon to watchmakers, the model represents the phases of the lunar cycle while staying true to the clean aesthetic of the Grande Seconde collection and the brand’s signature figure eight. The double-level dial boasts an applied satin-finish ring, 18k red-gold star appliques and a 22k gold moon crowning a black onyx moon disk. The self-winding mechanical movement is made of friction- and corrosionresistant silicon and requires correction only once every 122 years.这款大秒针系列表款增添月相复杂功能,精准呈现从新月到下弦月的月相周期,同时延承大秒针纯净简约的美学特质及品牌标志性的数字“8”造型,向备受制表师推崇的月亮致敬。黑色大明火珐琅双层表盘配备缎面立体内盘环,黑色缟玛瑙月相显示盘则点缀18K红金星星镶饰和22K金月亮。腕表搭载自动上链机械机芯,充分运用硅材质的天然属性,具有优异的耐磨擦和耐腐蚀性,而且每122年才需调校一次。

CHANEL 香奈儿BOY.FRIEND SKELETON CALIBRE 3 BOY.FRIEND CALIBRE 3镂空机芯

2018 marks the year when the Boy.friend watch – made three years ago – is fitted with a skeleton movement, the Calibre 3. Its silhouette, the octagon – a shape that pays tribute to the legendary No.5 bottle and to Place Vendôme – is a classic symbol that is both contemporary and classic, its angles beautifully polished or satin-finished. The complication floats within the case in a series of interlinked, vertically aligned circles. Mirror-polished chamfering emphasises the movement’s depth, directing the onlooker’s gaze towards the beating heart.经过三年的研发,香奈儿于2018年推出Boy.friend Calibre 3镂空机芯腕表。八角形的表盘设计是向经典传奇的N°5香水以及巴黎芳登广场致敬。设计融合了现代与经典,每个棱角都经过抛光或缎面处理。机芯悬浮于八角形的米色金表壳内,呈现出一系列相互连接、垂直错落、精准相连的圆形。米色金的倒脚经过了镜面抛光工艺,展现了机芯的深度。表桥安置于表盘背部,得以尽现腕表精准跳动的机芯之美。

HARRY WINSTON 海瑞温斯顿HARRY WINSTON EMERALD EMERALD系列腕表

The eponymous collection welcomes a new timepiece that shows off the label’s panache as a diamond purveyor. Adorned with soft pink tones, brilliant- cut diamonds and mother of pearl, the latest addition is not only an ode to femininity, but also an homage to Mr. Winston’s favourite diamond cut. The watch is powered by a quartz movement and is water-resistant up to 30m.全新Emerald系列腕表添新作,彰显品牌作为钻石供应商的盛名。全新印记Emerald系列腕表呈现柔美粉色调,饰以圆形明亮式切工钻石和珍珠母贝,不仅颂赞女性魅力,也是对海瑞·温斯顿先生钟爱的祖母绿型钻石切工致敬。海瑞温斯顿印记Emerald系列腕表搭载精准的瑞士石英机芯,防水深度达30米。

GRAFF 格拉夫MASTERGRAFF ULTRA FLAT TOURBILLON METIERS D’ART

The jewellery and watchmaker takes to Japanese art and culture, micro-painting, exquisite enamelling, a flying tourbillon and its expert gem-setting panache in its latest horlogical masterpiece. The remarkably slim case houses Graff’s signature faceted bezel, set with scintillating custom- cut diamonds. The timepiece is avaliable in three motifs: the dragon holding a magnificent ball of fire; the samurai warrior with gold detailing; and the Murakami-inspired, a tribute to the contemporary artist.格拉夫从日本艺术和文化汲取灵感,雕琢出瑰丽夺目的全新杰作。纤薄的表壳结合格拉夫无出其右的宝石镶嵌工艺、世纪传承的微绘工艺、细致的珐琅工艺,以及精准可靠的飞行陀飞轮,而品牌标志性的钻石琢面表圈上,更镶满特别切割的璀璨美钻,令人惊艳。款腕表有三种面盘可供选择:巨龙紧握火球和陀飞轮、配以金色细节的日本武士表盘、和源自村上隆的表盘设计,以向这位当代艺术大师致敬。

BULGARI 宝格丽OCTO RAMA

In the rare case that Bulgari opts for simplicity, watch-lovers should pay attention. Hitting all the right notes in architecture, sophistication, proportions and minimalism, the Octo Rama is the quintessence of style. The first reference flaunts elegance on a sunburst anthracite dial framed by a steel case. The second pairs the steel case with satin-brushed elements and a sunburst blue dial. The final version showcases gold and is reinforced by a touch of black – a typical detail in contemporary Italian design.宝格丽少数的简约风格腕表,手表爱好者一定不能错过。Octo系列的设计灵感来自古建筑的和谐美,以时尚又当代的外形为制表业带来新指标。第一个型号在精钢表壳所包围着的无烟煤太阳射线表盘上,展现一种高雅气派;第二个型号采用精钢表壳与精致链节组成的表链,加上闪闪发光的太阳射线蓝色表盘;第三个型号的腕表以金制成,加上黑色、典型的意式时尚设计。

TAG HEUER 豪雅表LINK DIAMOND 41MM LINK 41毫米钻石腕表

The 1987- design heralded for its ergonomic design and comfort underwent a major makeover in 2016. Two years later, it reveals a new image with diamonds adorning the bezel and the first three rows of the bracelet. With a diameter of 41mm, the blue mother- of-pearl dial promises maximum readability while its four subtle corners makes it’s a shape that lies between round and cushion, giving it a softer, more understated design. The all-steel watch houses an automatic Calibre 5 movement, which is visible through a sapphire case-back. Link系列自1987年诞生以来,其招牌表带特色在人体工学与佩戴舒适度方面堪称典范。表款在2016年改头换面,时隔两年,如今推出更华美的新版本,在表圈、连接部位及表带的前三节都镶上钻石。直径41毫米的蓝色珍珠母贝开阔表盘拥有绝佳的阅时清晰度。微妙的四边角度使表壳介于圆形与枕形之间,带来更柔和、低调的风格。表带完全以不锈钢打造,搭载Calibre 5自动机芯,可透过蓝宝石水晶底盖一窥究竟。

CORUM 昆仑表GOLDEN BRIDGE RECTANGLE JOACHIM HORSLEY

Everyone Ev knows Joachim Horsley in the entertainment business: he’s he composed film scores for Dreamworks productions, arranged songs so for Michael Bublé and John Legend and performed on stage sta with Ben Folds. For a sage like Horsley, Corum shows its respect re with a unique watchmaking composition. Part of a strictly limited lim edition, it’s the first time the Golden Bridge collection has ha embarked on a long-term musical partnership; it’s also the first fir Corum watch to feature a metallic decoration on its sapphire case ca back. The watch depicts an extract from the original score of Beethoven’s Be 7th Symphony and is available in white and pink gold.大家都领大略过约阿希姆·霍斯利的娱乐作品:他为多部梦工厂动画片配乐,为麦可·布雷和约翰·传奇改编乐曲,是班·弗兹的舞台合作伙伴。为乐了表扬霍斯利这样的天才,昆仑表为其量身制作一款独特的腕表。作为限了量版系列,昆仑表首次以金桥腕表为载体,缔结长期音乐合作关系。也首量次为腕表的蓝宝石表底装饰金属镀层,其上铭刻贝多芬第七交响曲原乐谱次节选。这款腕表将推出白金或玫瑰金款式。节

HUBLOT 宇舶表CLASSIC FUSION CHRONOGRAPH ITALIA INDEPENDENT CLASSIC FUSION ITALIA INDEPENDENT计时码表

Continuing its partnership with fashion guru and founder of Garage Italia Customs and Italia Independent Lapo Elkann, the latest watch adds a sporty twist with the addition of a chronograph movement to three different limited editions. The expressions include a blue houndstooth pattern in a titanium case; a blue pinstripe fabric in a black ceramic case; as well as a King Gold material in a Prince of Wales check. The timepieces feature the same sapphire crystal on the back of their 45mm case while all the fabrics used are from the 60s and 70s and are chosen from the archives of legendary Italian tailor Rubinacci.继续与意大利时尚大师兼Garage Italia Customs和Italia Independent品牌始创人Lapo Elkann携手合作,2018年款赋予三款特别限量版腕表全新的运动潮流风格,并添加计时码表功能。第一款腕表的表带和表盘上饰有蓝色千鸟格纹,搭配抛光钛金属表壳;第二款腕表同样以蓝色色调示人,采用优雅的细条纹织物面料,搭配上抛光黑色陶瓷表壳;最独特的第三款腕表以著名的王金为主,表带和表盘则采用威尔斯亲王喜爱的棕色调。全新三款45毫米表壳腕表均采用蓝宝石水晶镜面,配合Lapo Elkann先生特别搜罗来自60、70年代,意大利著名西服订制大师Rubinacci先生的传统珍贵布料,尽显出精致与优雅的绅士格调。

CHOPARD 萧邦L.U.C QUATTRO L.U.C QUATTRO腕表

As one of the pillars of the L.U.C. collection, the Quattro series welcomes a black tie-friendly expression with two pared-down dials. The main dial is silver-toned and vertically satin-brushed across its entire surface, swept over by a set of blued hands, hour markers and three and nine Arabic numerals. The signature Quattro subdial at 6 o’clock contains both small seconds and a pointer-type date indication. Exactly opposite at 12 o’clock, meanwhile, sits the nine-day power reserve indicator in the shape of an unfurling fan. The 43mm diameter is crafted from 18k rose gold and is powered by the Calibre 98.01-L.作为L.U.C系列的重要表款,全新的L.U.C Quattro腕表也拥有专为极具品味的当代绅士而打造的优雅奢华特性。整个盘面施以垂直缎纹打磨的银色表盘,再巧妙搭配对比强烈的蓝色及金色指针。分钟刻度圈在3点钟和9点钟位置搭配大型阿拉伯数字“3”和“9”,并结合蓝色的立体镶贴时标。沿用L.U.C Quattro腕表的标志特色,腕表在6时位置均设有副表盘,此小表盘装设小秒针及以指针指示的日期显示功能。在12时位置,动力储存显示细分成9个刻度,并呈180度的扇形设计。腕表的表壳总直径为43毫米,以精美的18K玫瑰金打造,搭载萧邦表厂自制的创新98.01- L机芯。

OMEGA 欧米茄SEAMASTER OLYMPIC GAMES COLLECTION欧米茄海马奥运会系列

Think Omega and what comes to mind are astronauts, James Bond, and who can forget, The Olympics. As the official timekeeper of the sporting event on 27 occasions since 1932, the watchmaker celebrates its timekeeping legacy through pieces that espouse vibrant colour designs, a playful spirit, sporty hands and bold hour markers on black. A coloured pulse reader encircles the dial, with three narrowly separated 20-second timing intervals, enabling the wearer to easily calculate their pulse beats-per-minute.想到欧米茄,就会想到宇航员、詹姆斯·邦德、当然还有奥运会。欧米茄从1932年至今已先后27次担任奥运会大会指定计时,为庆祝品牌悠久的体育计时历史,这个制表大师推出独特腕表系列,朝气勃勃的色彩充满玩味,饶富体育动感的指针造型,配衬黑底小时刻度,表面周边特别加上彩色脉搏计,并有三段独立间距,每段仅20秒,方便佩戴者计算每分钟脉搏次数。

BREITLING 百年灵NAVITIMER 8航空计时8腕表系列

Breitling shines a spotlight on its aviation roots with a new collection, the Navitimer 8 – a number that nods to the Huit Aviation Department. In the family are five models that resurrect some of the department’s dials and bezels, as well as the brand’s iconic pilot’s watch, Reference 768. Pay particular attention to the luminous hands against black dials, notches on the bezel and artfully shaped lugs.以计时腕表和深厚的航空底蕴而著称的百年灵,推出全新航空计时8腕表系列,以数字“8”命名是为了向百年灵“Huit航空飞行部门”致敬。延续百年灵经典的768型航空腕表的设计理念,新款的表盘和表圈部分,与彼时的驾驶舱计时器遥相呼应。特别值得一提的是,夜光指针与黑色表盘的强对比设计,表圈上刻有经典凹槽,以及巧妙的环形表带设计,这些元素将运动与优雅完美地融合在一起。

LONGINES 浪琴表CONQUEST V.H.P. V.H.P.康卡斯系列 腕表

The brand’s ultimate sports line reveals a new achievement in the field of quartz with a chronograph calibre. The movement stands out for its high degree of precision and its ability to reset its hands after an impact or exposure to a magnetic field with the GPD (Gear Position Detection) system. Steel or PVD models are available in 42mm and 44mm sizes.该品牌的终极运动系列计时腕表,标志着石英技术迈进新里程。腕表提供极高的精准度,指针在受到撞击或受磁干扰后透过GPD(齿轮位置检测)系统自动进行调整。全新精钢或黑色PVD腕表型号配备42及44毫米表壳直径两款大小尺码。

ZENITH 真力时PILOT CRONOMETRO TIPO CP-2 FLYBACK TIPO CP-2飞行员系列 飞返计时腕表

The brand with the guiding star revives its 1960s Cairelli model. Pairing the signature military design with a choice of bronze or aged stainless steel, the icon gains a trendy edge without losing its traditional adventurous DNA. The infallible features of readable arrowshaped hands, trademark TIPO CP-2 dial, responsive pushers and reliable bezel are now combined with the automatic El Primero column-wheel chronograph with flyback function.以“领航之星”为标志的这一品牌推出其著名的1960年代Cairelli表款的复兴之作,将标志性的军事设计与青铜或复古精钢结合,倍添新锐时尚风格,同时丝毫没有丢弃其经典传承的果敢基因。这款配备飞返功能的El Primero星速自动上链导柱轮计时码表具备一系列珍贵特征:提供完美可读性的琢面箭头形指针、标志性的TIPO CP- 2表盘、响应灵敏的按钮和能实现可靠准确操作的表圈。

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