Da Dong – essential capital quack (see Rest/relaxed) Rosewood – starchitectural stay (see Accommodation) Green T House Living – pan-tastic (see Rest/glam) Lama Temple – happening hutong (see Shopping Itin.) Shang Xia – unbridled luxury (see Standout Stores) Atmosphere – unbeatable on a clear day (see Bars) Bespoke Beijing – terrific tours (see V. Useful) Lao Yu – best foot forward (see Adv. Shopping) Capital Spirits – baijiu done right (see Bars) King’s Joy – omnivore’s delight (see Rest/smart) Ullens Center for Contemporary Art – (see Art) Pollution – hey, anyone remember blue sky? Cars – 1,000+ new cars on the road each day... OMG! Taxis – a chronic shortage of cabs + all too often grumpy drivers = travel misery and long waits Rush hour – Ring Road purgatory – far better to pop on some matador pants and get a bike, Mike!