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和其他设计相比，时装设计给设计师留下的自我表达空间更加广阔，它是一 visions; their种承载着更多设计师心路的设计品。 implement to creators designers. its of the a way for design is passions Fashion heartfelt the records tracks and
不全之美 Incomplete Aesthetics
This is a series of fashion design about incomplete aesthetics. If a designer treats his work as a piece of art, he would either choose to fully complete his work or deliberately leave something “undone”. Then the question comes: how to judge that a work has been finished? And who has the right to decide it? The question, undoubtedly, is the designer himself. Such thought gave birth to the Valentino series, which was inspired by the exhibition Unfinished: Thoughts Left Visible at the Met Breuer. A deliberately unfinished piece of work could be a poetic decision made by the designer, or simply pure chance. The design director Pierpaolo Piccioli the issue of what a designer could figure out in their brain. Picasso also advocated that an unfinished work would sustain its creative vitality. In this series, the expression of creativity leaves no trace but could be found everywhere. To this end, the designer adopted a pragmatic modular concept: shirts, casual overcoats, windbreakers and high-waists all applied the same fabric as of a set of uniform; unhemmed liners created layered effect; loose stitching could be seen in different styles as if carelessly neglected; animal pattern appliques were damaged and then repaired, while the English style embroideries created a sense of sportiness. Some odd parts in the design are not tailored, though. The designer still defined them as completed works, as a result of an artistic touch.
这是个关于未完成美感的设计系列。如果一位设计师把他的设计当成一件艺术品来做，那就会存在事事追求完成的方式和刻意“留白”的方式。当然，一件作品怎样才算真正完成，究竟由谁来决定？答案当然是作者。Valentino这一系列正是从这种思维中诞生，设计灵感来自纽约大都会博物馆The Met Breuer探索“未完成”概念的展览《Unfinished: Thoughts Left Visible》。
刻意不完成作品可能是创作者的诗意决定，抑或是引人入胜的偶然巧合。如今已经转任Dior设计总监的Maria Grazia Chiuri当时曾与Pierpaolo Piccioli深入思考创作者的脑海可以想象什么。毕加索也曾主张，一件“不全”的作品，创作活力可以永续。此系列创作思维的表达不着痕迹但却无处不在。设计师采用了实用的模块意念：衬衫、休闲外套、风衣及高腰裤选用同一材质，如同制服；不缝边衬里营造层叠效果；不同的款式都有些松针缝线，就像大意遗漏的粗缝线迹；兽纹嵌花被刻意破坏后再修补，英伦刺绣营造出纤薄飘逸的质感。设计中某些零碎部分尚未修整，但设计师仍然潇洒地把它定性为完品，完全是一派艺术化的设计理念。
时空解咒 Memory Lane
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Although fashion trends come forth and back, seeming repetitive, the design showing up on runways this season looks updated.Although fashion trends come forth and back, seeming repetitive, the design showing up on runways this season looks updated.Although fashion trends come forth and back, seeming repetitive, the design showing up on runways this season looks u`pdated.Although fashion trends come forth and back, seeming repetitive, the design showing up on runways this season looks updated.
Although fashion trends come forth and back, seeming repetitive, the design showing up on runways this season looks updated.Although fashion trends come forth and back, seeming repetitive, the design showing up on runways this season looks updated.Although fashion trends come forth and back, seeming repetitive, the design showing up on runways this season looks updated.Although fashion trends come forth and back, seeming repetitive, the design showing up on runways this season looks updated.Although fashion trends come forth and back, seeming repetitive, the design showing up on runways this season looks updated. Although fashion trends come forth and back, seeming repetitive, the design showing up on ruVnways this season looks updated.Although fashion trends come forth and back, seeming repetitive, the design showing up on runways this season looks updated.
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20 “不对称空间感”。摩尔是术家之一，也是雕塑艺术大师，在世界各地均能看到他著名的半抽象铜铸雕塑作品。他出生在英国约克郡，这里也是风衣的故乡。这种有关雕塑的意象在该系列中十分明显，它的灵感就源自摩尔作品中对于空洞艺术形态的探索： Burberry对于弦线元素的运用，以及对于凹凸曲线的追求。系列无论·摩从尺寸到比例，从质地到色泽乃至整体廓形，均深受亨利摩尔基金会设计存档的
解读之途 Conscious Path
This collection by the designer Miuccia Prada is another experiment on her curiosity. After the inspirations of `wanderers’, `travellers’, the concept of travel returns to her works as the key point.Miuccia draws inspirations from various things among seasons. She kept updating herself, changing the design and almost never copied her past ideas. But this collection has the same idea `travel’ as the last one. Why did she choose this same idea as the key word of this collection? Moreover, it is not easy to combine fashion design with such an abstract concept because abstract design concepts may make the collection be too far away from the practical wear. And why did she do this once more?
There must be some reasons. According to some journalists, she had such words in the backstage of the fashion week,” The past has beet the past and what I am thinking about is the present.” She may think that fashion needs to see the time era during which the fashion itself is there.
According to her, there is uncertainty in this time era, like in economy. Even Prada was influenced. Although some media made such comments, saying that the collection is colorful and the style is so leisure, the concept of travel in this collection, in fact, told some new stories. The models on runway look like adventurers on the journey that no one took before. The big bags for which Prada became famous in fashion industry appeared this time again. They clearly explained what practical wear should be. And the graphic on the pieces show the various destinations around the world.
Wang Johnny王烨昇Editor ： Author/ 编辑作者 时装设计之行