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和其他设计相比,时装设计给设计师留下的自我表达空间更加广阔,它是一 visions; their种承载着更多设计师心路的设计品。 implement to creators designers. its of the a way for design is passions Fashion heartfelt the records tracks and

Vantage Shanghai - - 爱出色 -

不全之美 Incomplete Aesthetics

This is a series of fashion design about incomplete aesthetics. If a designer treats his work as a piece of art, he would either choose to fully complete his work or deliberately leave something “undone”. Then the question comes: how to judge that a work has been finished? And who has the right to decide it? The question, undoubtedly, is the designer himself. Such thought gave birth to the Valentino series, which was inspired by the exhibition Unfinished: Thoughts Left Visible at the Met Breuer. A deliberately unfinished piece of work could be a poetic decision made by the designer, or simply pure chance. The design director Pierpaolo Piccioli the issue of what a designer could figure out in their brain. Picasso also advocated that an unfinished work would sustain its creative vitality. In this series, the expression of creativity leaves no trace but could be found everywhere. To this end, the designer adopted a pragmatic modular concept: shirts, casual overcoats, windbreakers and high-waists all applied the same fabric as of a set of uniform; unhemmed liners created layered effect; loose stitching could be seen in different styles as if carelessly neglected; animal pattern appliques were damaged and then repaired, while the English style embroideries created a sense of sportiness. Some odd parts in the design are not tailored, though. The designer still defined them as completed works, as a result of an artistic touch.

这是个关于未完成美感的设计系列。如果一位设计师把他的设计当成一件艺术品来做,那就会存在事事追求完成的方式和刻意“留白”的方式。当然,一件作品怎样才算真正完成,究竟由谁来决定?答案当然是作者。Valentino这一系列正是从这种思维中诞生,设计灵感来自纽约大都会博物馆The Met Breuer探索“未完成”概念的展览《Unfinished: Thoughts Left Visible》。

刻意不完成作品可能是创作者的诗意决定,抑或是引人入胜的偶然巧合。如今已经转任Dior设计总监的Maria Grazia Chiuri当时曾与Pierpaolo Piccioli深入思考创作者的脑海可以想象什么。毕加索也曾主张,一件“不全”的作品,创作活力可以永续。此系列创作思维的表达不着痕迹但却无处不在。设计师采用了实用的模块意念:衬衫、休闲外套、风衣及高腰裤选用同一材质,如同制服;不缝边衬里营造层叠效果;不同的款式都有些松针缝线,就像大意遗漏的粗缝线迹;兽纹嵌花被刻意破坏后再修补,英伦刺绣营造出纤薄飘逸的质感。设计中某些零碎部分尚未修整,但设计师仍然潇洒地把它定性为完品,完全是一派艺术化的设计理念。

时空解咒 Memory Lane

British poet T. S. Eliot exploration, wrote: “We and the end shall not to arrive of all cease f first time”. where we our exploring Gucci’s started and will abstract designs know the literariness, bring with place fo down and succeed them a strong memory lane” in telling tou ney itself, inside the the starting it designer’s imagined intensive means mind.

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The journey silky style, suit extent about through resulting in sha separation, fashion movement. design is In a abandonment, to a larg One needs designer’s transformation, to open mind, it is be fully their an involved mind and unexpected in it. accept enc all the possibi

“我们永不应该停止探索,我们所有探索的终我们启程之处,却有如初次抵达般新奇。人艾略特这样说过。Gucci深具抽象的文学故事性,讲述了设计师内心中所想象的一这次的设计毫解咒之旅”。从旅程本身来看,展开一段旅程意味着深入探的美景。这可能有些过于抽象而难以理解,但当你回头来看衣系列具体的设计时,便会恍然大悟:每套服装都如同满载万花筒一般,有着全新的意义。把唐老鸭这个美国卡通形象毛线马甲上,又搭配上金属配饰,风格中童心和贵气并存花的丝质面料,看上去有些文艺又有些颓废。这是一段能够解缚心灵之结的旅程;也是一个能怀抱奇幻、能解开已存事物的“咒语”。这场通过时装设计而展开很大程度上意味着分离、遗弃、改变和搬动。从设计师的角这是场无法预期的邂逅,需要敞开心胸,接纳所有的可能。

Although fashion trends come forth and back, seeming repetitive, the design showing up on runways this season looks updated.Although fashion trends come forth and back, seeming repetitive, the design showing up on runways this season looks updated.Although fashion trends come forth and back, seeming repetitive, the design showing up on runways this season looks u`pdated.Although fashion trends come forth and back, seeming repetitive, the design showing up on runways this season looks updated.

Although fashion trends come forth and back, seeming repetitive, the design showing up on runways this season looks updated.Although fashion trends come forth and back, seeming repetitive, the design showing up on runways this season looks updated.Although fashion trends come forth and back, seeming repetitive, the design showing up on runways this season looks updated.Although fashion trends come forth and back, seeming repetitive, the design showing up on runways this season looks updated.Although fashion trends come forth and back, seeming repetitive, the design showing up on runways this season looks updated. Although fashion trends come forth and back, seeming repetitive, the design showing up on ruVnways this season looks updated.Although fashion trends come forth and back, seeming repetitive, the design showing up on runways this season looks updated.

TBurberry aesthetics. sculpture “asymmetrical of of his is a tour concept art the in its series British presented contemporary from most influential spatiality” the is one of a renowned as

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Yorkshire, windbreakers. in the was born Burberry throughout of birthplace conspicuous “hollow” be the is very of sculpture exploration in of the by the deep is notable

Inspired collection collection. works, the curves. Moore’s irregular in and the art forms elements or even of chord or colour, application texture Henry the or ratio, by the size inspired is

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这这次的Burberry是一场有关雕塑美学的旅行,

· 摩尔的系列中出现了英国现代艺术大师亨利世纪重要的英国艺

20 “不对称空间感”。摩尔是术家之一,也是雕塑艺术大师,在世界各地均能看到他著名的半抽象铜铸雕塑作品。他出生在英国约克郡,这里也是风衣的故乡。这种有关雕塑的意象在该系列中十分明显,它的灵感就源自摩尔作品中对于空洞艺术形态的探索: Burberry对于弦线元素的运用,以及对于凹凸曲线的追求。系列无论·摩从尺寸到比例,从质地到色泽乃至整体廓形,均深受亨利摩尔基金会设计存档的

·尔雕塑创作的启发,而借鉴自亨利逼真印花元素则展现得淋漓尽致。难怪有媒体称,这场大秀模特所展示的每款造型均可喻为一件“行走的艺术品”。时装秀上两款别致鞋履引人注目,分别为女士尖头中筒靴以及男摩尔的雕塑作品·士不对称系带布洛克皮鞋,灵感源自亨利的圆弧形及棱角。

解读之途 Conscious Path

This collection by the designer Miuccia Prada is another experiment on her curiosity. After the inspirations of `wanderers’, `travellers’, the concept of travel returns to her works as the key point.Miuccia draws inspirations from various things among seasons. She kept updating herself, changing the design and almost never copied her past ideas. But this collection has the same idea `travel’ as the last one. Why did she choose this same idea as the key word of this collection? Moreover, it is not easy to combine fashion design with such an abstract concept because abstract design concepts may make the collection be too far away from the practical wear. And why did she do this once more?

There must be some reasons. According to some journalists, she had such words in the backstage of the fashion week,” The past has beet the past and what I am thinking about is the present.” She may think that fashion needs to see the time era during which the fashion itself is there.

According to her, there is uncertainty in this time era, like in economy. Even Prada was influenced. Although some media made such comments, saying that the collection is colorful and the style is so leisure, the concept of travel in this collection, in fact, told some new stories. The models on runway look like adventurers on the journey that no one took before. The big bags for which Prada became famous in fashion industry appeared this time again. They clearly explained what practical wear should be. And the graphic on the pieces show the various destinations around the world.

从某种意义上讲,Prada这次的系列又是她出于好奇心的一个实验。继流浪者、旅行者的灵感之后,旅行再次成为了她作品的中心。要知道Miuccia善变,一季又一季,抹掉自己,改变所有,但是这次系列里出人意料地再现旅行这个概念,更何况将时装设计和如此略显晦涩的主题结合在一起并不是一件简单的事情.因为在设计的同时要保证自己不会落入一个“自认为高人一等的高级时装”的囹圄,所以选择这个主题对于她来讲,想必有着一些深意。有关消息称,她在后台说过这样的话,“过去的已经过去了,我只想考虑当下。”这也许是她认为,“时尚仍然有责任要成为创造了它的这个时代的证明。”在她的眼里,现在这个时代存在着某种动荡和飘摇,即便是Prada都受到了不小的冲击,因此这个系列里旅行的概念,并非如一般媒体所宣称的那样“色彩明朗,风格轻松”。相反,秀场上的模特更加像探索的行者,沿着斜坡艰辛前进,在色彩鲜艳的用色背后,观众看到 的是庞大的背包,粗革凉鞋,服装廓形的设计修身和大体积的背包形成鲜明的对比。

其实,Miuccia用尼龙背包来阐释她内心的设计想法,也算是有由来的。大多数评论家都认为,尼龙背包这个配件堪为Prada成功的基础,兼顾了实用和时代的时尚感。这种实用主义的意味糅合在了此系列上。在抽象的设计概念上,Miuccia表现得较为隐晦,但在具体的设计元素上,范围则十分广阔,图印的花式繁多,大象、墨西哥宽边帽和西瓜等,用来体现这场世界旅行中不同地点的象征。

从搭配看,这个系列用到很多混搭的方式,如多色马甲、针织骑行裤、罗纹毛衣和印花衬衫等和轻质尼龙夹克衫或超薄套装搭配。这种乍一看有点突兀的造型,背后同样是实用主义的讯息,这是一个把秀场上所有元素联结在一起的关键:西服由于用途的多样性,混搭的时候会改变自身在造型中的角色;但是一双旅行凉鞋或防风夹克无论如何混搭,自身强大标识度令它们的角色不会改变。

Wang Johnny王烨昇Editor : Author/ 编辑作者 时装设计之行

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