Italian Visual Art意大利的视觉回忆

Vantage Shanghai - - 爱出色 - 作者Author/编辑Editor:王烨昇Johnny Wang

意大利的艺术不仅仅只在文艺复兴,也在上世纪初叶。而这一过程,恰为时尚行业所见证。

Italian art did not peak in the Renaissance era - the early 20th century witnessed a fashion industry rejuvenation that launched Italy to the forefront of global fashion.

Currently, a thematic exhibition titled Il Ritorno in Italia is being held at the Salvatore Ferragamo Museum in Florence, Italy. The exhibition is resplendent with the charming mood of Italy in the 1920s. Carlo Sisi, the curator of the event, was inspired by the brand founder Ferragamo's voyage across the Atlantic. Collaborating with academic board and under the visualization of set decorator Maurizio Balò, the exhibition reveals the visual arts of 20th century Italy through Ferragamo's eyes. The exhibition looks back at the art motifs and works that influenced Ferragamo's creation, as well as the cultural and social environment before the rise of fascism in Italy. Meanwhile, this specific period of history gave birth to countless design ideas and artistic creations, enabling liberal and bold artists to realize their wildest dreams.

BACK TO ITALY

The exhibition starts from the first exhibition hall where the prologue introduces the historical background of one of the biggest ocean liners of Navigazione Generale Italiana Company – the Roma. This was the luxurious liner that Ferragamo took to return from America to his motherland, Italy. The exhibition hall shows several photographic works, recording the exquisite suites and the extravagant lifestyle on the ship. The theme of sailing across the Atlantic is thus revealed and dominates the whole exhibition. Moreover, the hall also presents the ad brochures and indoor design drafts of the luxurious ocean liner.

The video device at the center of the hall plays moments from Ferragamo's life at his hometown, his career experiences growing up and practicing in the American film industry, and quite a few news reports about his successes in Hollywood.

日前,意大利佛罗伦萨的Salvatore Ferragamo博物馆举办了一场名为《Ferragamo重返之旅》的主题展览。这场展览呈现的是1920年代意大利的风情,策展人卡洛 · 茜茜与学术委员会携手合作,以品牌创始人菲拉格慕那次横渡大西洋的重返之旅为灵感,在布景师莫里奇奥·巴洛的呈现下,以菲拉格慕的视角,揭示20世纪意大利的视觉文化,回顾那些曾与他创作产生直接或间接影响的艺术主题与作品,以及二战后期至法西斯政权统治前夕的文化与社会情况。同时,该时期曾孕育了无数设计灵感与艺术创作,让不受世俗观念羁绊、思路开阔的艺术家得以自由发挥创意。

重返意大利

展览以位于1号展厅开始,由Navigazione Generale Italiana公司最大客轮之一“罗马号”的历史资料拉开展览序幕,菲拉格慕当年正是乘坐这艘豪华客轮返回故乡意大利。展厅陈列着多幅摄影作品,记录客轮内精美客房与奢华生活方式,以此为灵感揭开横渡大西洋之旅的主题,并贯穿本次展览。展厅内还陈列记录客轮豪华气派的宣传手册及室内设计图。

展厅中央的视频装置,播放着他年轻时在故乡的生活影像、长大后在美国电影行业的从业经历,以及他在好莱坞大获成功的不少新闻报道。

此外,展厅内还展出他重返意大利时的旅行文件、美国公民身份证明、他在该时期设计的经

In addition, the exhibition hall also puts on display a series of Ferragamo's travelling files and American identity certifications on his returning. The classic shoe style he designed at that time, and the specially designed shoes for small-budget film stars are all on exhibition. The hall also presents a painting by Pippo Rizzo, which portrays a modern traveller yearning for adventure. Another piece of work is the Still Life by Mino Maccari. The box engraved with “Italy” implies the bright future of spreading Italian handicrafts to the entire world.

FLORENCE IN THE 20TH CENTURY

Entering the second exhibition hall, you are warmly welcomed by a series of marvelous paintings by distinguished 20th century artists – Giovanni Colacicchi, Egisto Ferroni, John Baldwin, Giuseppe Piombanti Ammannati, and Ottone Rosai all vividly portray the charming sights of Florence in their own styles. These are all esteemed artists that lived during that historic time era.

Among these, Rosai's works draw the most attention. According to hisotric records, the then young painter Rosai reproduced the tranquility and peaceful scene of Florence in the 15th century with his delicate paintbrush, flawlessly interpreting the unique cultural atmosphere of the time. Apparently, this makes him remembered nowadays.

Abundant art pieces were there from a lot of artists that had various artistic talents. That is the Florence where Ferragamo once lived.

In addition, Rosai's works restores the architectural features and development footprints of the city, as well as the unique charm to attract tourists to revisit the place time after time. At the center of the exhibition hall a screen plays a short movie produced by Ferragamo after he returned to Florence.

典鞋履款式以及为小电影明星特别定制的鞋履,均十分珍贵。展厅内还陈列Pippo Rizzo的一幅画作,画面上是一名现代旅人正满怀期待地迎接全新旅程,象征着Ferragamo先生前往美国、由美国返回意大利的两次伟大旅程;而另一件作品,则是米诺 · 马卡里的《平静的生活》,以写有“意大利”字样的盒子寓意未来意大利手工艺品远销

海外的美好图景。

20世纪的佛罗伦萨

走进2号展厅,首先映入眼帘的是20世纪众多艺术家的杰出画作——乔凡尼·蔻拉齐基、艾吉斯托·费洛尼、约翰·巴尔德温、吉赛普·皮翁邦提·阿 曼那提和奥托那·罗塞等艺术家以风格各异的笔触,栩栩如生地描画出了佛罗伦萨的迷人风情。其中,罗塞的画作尤其值得关注。当时还是年轻画家的他,以灵动画笔重现了15世纪和平安宁的佛罗伦萨,完美诠释《Solaria》杂志描述的独特文化氛围。艺术、文学、音乐乃至电影,都成为了当时人们热衷讨论的话题。

这正是菲拉格慕所生活的佛罗伦萨。此外,罗塞的作品还原了这座城市的建筑风貌与城市发展,以及其能够吸引众多修养良好的旅客多次前来的独特魅力。展厅中央播放了菲拉格慕回到佛罗伦萨后制作的电影短片,这也是关于20世纪佛罗伦萨较为罕见的记录。

该时期让不受世俗观念羁绊、思路开阔的艺术家得以自由发挥创意

ITALIAN FOLK & DECORATIVE ART

The third exhibition hall is themed on folk and local art, which leads to the rejuvenation of Italian contemporary decorative art. The hall exhibits the works from the Roman Ethnography Show back to 1911. Among them, some pieces are accumulated from different regions in Italy. A number of exquisite art pieces are also presented in the hall, including Sardinian ceramics by Federico Melis, Roman style arts by Duilio Cambellotti, luxurious works by Vittorio Zecchin from Veneto region of Italy, and the futuristic works by Fortunato Depero.

These works of applied art have been on exhibition all over the world since Monza Biennale in 1923. Multiple forms of art activities push the further development of the classical idea of “Made in Italy” based on the local regionalism and national cultural recognition. Henceforth the unique Italian fashion style was established.

THE ITALIAN WOMEN

After WWII, women welcomed the full emancipation of rights. They got rid of the boundaries of maternal stereotype and the repressed laborer figures under the rule of Fascism and began to stand out in social activities, entered art circles, and participated in all sorts of festival celebrations and sport events. After the emergence of the concept “femme fatale”, the high time female emancipation pushed forward a brand-new trend from the late 19th century to the early 20th century. In the fourth exhibition hall, a large area is devoted to the presentation of women's closets and paintings showing glimpses of scenes from the lives of famous women. The various clothing in the closets is suitable for night or day.

At the end, the fourth hall exhibits the portrait photography of women artists, photographers, authors, actresses, and politicians who are all reputable in their respective fields. To name a few, Marquise Luisa Casati, Margherita Sarfatti, Alma Fidora, the Wulz sisters, Edina Altara, and Paola Borboni are among them.

Here we introduced art atomsphere of Italy in early 1920s. And in next issue, this feature will move onto the art story of Italy during late time of Ferragamo's return.

意大利民间与装饰艺术

3号展厅的主题为民间与地方艺术,这一艺术引领意大利当代装饰艺术走向复兴。展厅内首先展示的是1911年罗马民族时装秀的作品,其中部分服饰由意大利各地区收集而来,在时装秀上统一展示。展厅内还陈列了许多精美别致的艺术品,包括费德里克·梅里斯创作的撒丁陶瓷作品、杜伊里奥·堪贝罗提创作的罗马风格艺术品、来自意大利三威尼托地区的维托里奥· 瑟金的华丽艺术品,以及佛图那托·德佩罗的未来派作品。

这些实用艺术作品自1923年起,便在Monza Biennale博览会上和全球各地展出。多种多样的艺术活动,共同推动以地方特色主义和民族文化认同感为基础的经典理念“意大利制造”进一步发展,进而形成意大利独一无二的时尚风格。

意大利女性

第二次世界大战后,女性迎来了全面解放。她们摆脱了母亲角色的束缚,不再是法西斯制度下遭受压迫的女工;她们在社会中崭露头角,出入文艺圈,并参与各类节日庆典和体育活动。19世纪末至20世纪初,“魅力尤物”这一观念出现后,走向高峰的女性解放推动了全新的时代潮流。4号展厅有大量陈列空间,展示女性衣橱及画作。衣橱中的各类服装可于日间、晚间不同场合穿着,而画作则表现了著名女性的居家场景。此外,本展厅展品还包括女性艺术家、摄影师、作家、演员及政治家的肖像摄影作品,她们在各自领域均具有深远影响力,如马尔济斯· 路易萨·卡萨提、马尔赫丽塔·萨法提、艾尔玛·菲多拉、乌兹姐妹、艾蒂娜·爱尔塔拉和帕奥拉·波波尼等。

左页起顺时针 CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT PAGE帆布油画《流浪者》,Pippo Rizzo,1929 Wander ;帆布油画《静物》,Mino Maccari,1926 Still Life ;罗马大洋航线的行李标签 Luggage label from the ocean liner Roma; 1号展厅讲述了菲拉格慕重回意大利的故事

The 1st Hall tells about Ferragamo’s return

左页起顺时针

CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT PAGE油画《圣塔·却尼塔广场》, Giovanni Colacicchi,1922 Piazza Santa Trinita;油画《旋转木马》,

Guido Ferroni,1920

The merry-go-round;

展厅二20世纪佛罗伦萨艺术Hall 2 Firenze’s art in 20th century;帆布油画《圣·节瓦西奥的工厂》,Giovanni Colacicchi,1925 The Factory of San Gervasio

本页起顺时针CLOCKWISE FROM THIS PAGE

《饰有饰带的绉纱外套》,1926 Coat made by crêpe silk; 4号展厅讲述了当时女性的角色Hall 4 tells about the women then;双耳细颈椭圆土罐,1927年 Glazed pottery;彩纸拼贴画《新娘》,Edina Altara,1919 The bride;胡桃木熟铁妆奁箱,Duilio Cambellotti,1923 Wedding chest

This specific period of history gave birth to countless designing ideas and artistic creations and enabled liberal and bold artists to realize their wildest dreams.

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