Austria: Land of Pure Art奥地利:纯粹的艺旅之趣

Vantage Shanghai - - V TRAVELLER 旅人志 - 作者Author/编辑Editor:俞祎君Aggi Yu

我无法想象,哪里还有比这种旅行更为纯粹的体验。I can't image another way in which you can experience purer travel.

这是一趟迷人的发现之旅,穿过无数宏伟的建筑和博物馆,体会仍然生机勃勃的传统文化和没有一点忧愁和焦虑的现代生活。

建筑奇观

奥地利建筑的多样性无法复制。维也纳建筑风格大多比较正式,但是其中也不乏“革新派”,这使得建筑文化遗产和当代创意建筑完美融合。“革新派”指的就是,1897年一群人从奥地利艺术家学会分离出来,受到新艺术运动的启发开创了一种崭新的风格,称其为“维也纳分离运动”。新艺术运动独特而短暂,在第一次世界大战前已逐渐衰落。

受到这种现代艺术理念的影响,1904年,曾经设计了维也纳卡尔广场的奥托·瓦格纳又设计了奥地利邮政储蓄银行。邮储银行的内饰是灰白色的,光线从玻璃屋顶透进来赋予它纯粹的线条之美,这便是现代主义的萌芽。

这仅仅是早期现代主义影响下产生的无聊派生物。而奥地利艺术家、设计师 Friedensreich

This is tour of exploration takes you through countless solemn buildings and museums — meanwhile experiencing the convergence of traditional culture and contemporary life.

ARCHITECTURAL SPECTACLE

Austria is unquestionably known for its architectural diversity. Vienna is generally formal and conservative in architecture, but also noted for a “revolutionary style,” which points back to a group of dissident artists from the Austrian Association of Artists, who created a new style called the “Vienna Secession” in 1897. The precursor, Art Nouveau, however, was unique and short-lived, having already diminished before WWI.

Influenced by the then-popular art movement, Otto Wagner, who designed Karlsplatz Station in Vienna, went on to produce the Austrian Postal Savings Bank in 1904. The interior of the bank building is decorated in grey, while the light cast through the rooftop glass infuses the building with a beautiful linearity.

These pieces, however, are considered the early attempts of modernism. One can say it was truly born by the time Friedensreich Hundertwasser, an Austrian artist and

Hundertwasser,也就是人们所称的“百水先生”奉行的理念则是“直线是罪过”。

比如,20世纪80年代百水先生设计的百水公寓也坐落于维也纳。这栋公寓大楼与众不同:大楼前凸起的鹅卵石路面犹如海浪般起伏;五彩的外立面好像抽象油画并点缀着大量马赛克;屋顶种满灌木,甚至从部分房间的窗户向外蔓延。整个建筑看起来更像是个巫师在某个无名街道胡乱建造而成。

百水先生还接手了另一个项目——改建施皮特劳垃圾焚烧厂。墙面依旧采用大量马赛克拼贴,不规则的曲线和强烈的色彩对比构成了充满童趣的风格,似乎找不出第二个像维也纳这般自由的城市了,能放任建筑师建造外表看上去如此天马行空的焚化炉,这点值得称赞。

除了维也纳,其他城市还有无数哥特式宗教建筑、巴洛克式豪华宫殿、具有现代化特色的玻璃建筑群和传统的农舍等,它们彼此为邻。

文化偶像

“拜访茜茜公主”几乎存在于每个去奥地利的游客的愿望清单之上。

影片《茜茜公主》的成功使得影迷慕名来到奥地利,他们都想了解这位传奇皇后伊利莎白(即“茜茜公主”)的故事。1854年4月,为了和表哥弗兰茨·约瑟夫皇帝结婚,这

designer, voiced his revolutionary principle, “the straight line is godless”.

Another example is the Hundertasserhaus in Vienna designed in the

1980s. Through the trademark building Hundertwasser combines with a profound respect for nature and, naturally, a love of irregular shapes and wavy lines. The mosaic façade poses in an abstract manner, while the rooftop bushes extend beyond the structure, as if a stage set by a wizard out of thin air.

Hundertwasser also participated in another project — the reconstruction of Fernwärme Spittelau. The façade again is featured with mosaics along with massive curves and bold colours, resulting in a fairy tale atmosphere. Credits go to the architect in transforming incinerators into such fantastic artworks. Besides Vienna, many other European cities are home to architectural wonders — whether they are Gothic, Baroque, modernist, or simply traditional cottage houses.

CULTURE IDOLS

“Visiting the Sissi Empress” is probably on the wish list of every visitor in Austria.

The legendary film Sissi Trilogy is one reason for some travellers to visit Austria. In April, 1854, the 16-year-old Elisabeth of Bavaria came to Vienna to marry her cousin, Emperor Franz Joseph I. After the wedding, she moved to Hofburg and thus entered the world of Austrian royalty.

位还差一点才满16岁的巴伐利亚公主来到了维也纳。在婚礼之后,她迁居入住霍夫堡,走进了维也纳宫廷的帝国世界中。至今,茜茜公主的影响力经久不衰,2018年是《茜茜公主》扮演者、奥地利女星罗密· 施奈德诞辰80周年纪念,也是《茜茜公主》男主角卡尔海因茨·伯姆诞辰90周年纪念。

进入茜茜博物馆体会“传说与真实”,展厅采用倒叙的方式分为“死亡”“茜茜传奇”“少女时期”“宫廷生活”“抗争”和“刺杀”六个主题。从茜茜的第一颗乳牙到1898年被用于刺杀她的匕首均安放于博物馆中。

在6月举行的第21届上海国际电影节上,《茜茜公主》数码修复版三部曲重返中国大银幕,在SIFF经典单元进行了特别展映。CDP格式同时保留了电影的胶片之感和浓郁的爱克发色彩,再现了欧洲宫廷生活和浪漫爱情故事。

咖啡之味

从茜茜博物馆出来后你会路过霍夫堡咖啡厅,要是逛累了可以在这里喝杯咖啡。2011年维也纳咖啡馆文化被联合国科教文组织列为“世界非物质文化遗产”之列。根据BBC今年4月份的报道称,奥地利的人均咖啡消耗量达到每年8公斤排名全球第六位。通常大家对“维也纳咖啡”的联想如下:用玻璃杯盛着的热咖啡顶部漂浮着一勺雪白的奶油,最后筛上糖粉。这确实是维也纳的特色咖啡之一的“艾斯班纳”,“Ein”有“一”的意思 And this year, 2018, happens to be the 80th birth anniversary of Romy Schneider, the actress who played Empress Sissi, and the 90th birth anniversary of Karlheinz Böhm, the actor for the Emperor.

The Sissi Museum is themed as “Legend and Truth,” exhibiting six sectors from “Death” to “Assassination” in a flashback manner. Precious items like Sissi’s first deciduous teeth and the dagger that ended her life could be found in the museum.

During the 21st Shanghai International Film Festival in June, Sissi Trilogy returned to the screen in China, offering a special panorama in the SIFF CLASSICS program. Thanks to the format of Digital Cinema Package (DCP), the three masterpieces are able to depict the luxury and romance of the medieval European court after decades of time.

TASTE COFFEE OF

Not far away from Sissi Museum is Café Horfburg. In 2011 Viennese coffee culture was enlisted as a UNESCO Intangible Heritage. According to a BBC report in April, the average coffee consumption in Austria is 8kg a year, ranking 6th globally.

Speaking of Viennese coffee, a strong black coffee served in a glass topped with whipped cream and sugar powder comes to our mind. Exactly this is the Viennese specialty — einspänner. “Ein” stands for “one” and “spänner” stands for “rein.”

In the olden times, coffee was a handy companion for

而“spänner”意为“缰绳”。

从前,奥地利马车车夫常在工作时喝咖啡,不过一手拿咖啡一手驾驶马车容易使咖啡洒出去,在热咖啡上放厚厚的奶油,起到了防泼洒和保温的双重作用。

音乐灵感

奥地利也是一个集结了无限喜悦的国家。许多世界知名音乐家都在这里找到了创作灵感:莫扎特、海顿、马勒、李斯特、布鲁克纳、施特劳斯、舒伯特。毫无疑问,奥地利人的生活里总是充满着古典乐、爵士乐或是现代乐。艺术领域还从音乐延伸到了歌剧、舞蹈等。每年6月至10月间,各类艺术节多如牛毛,遍布奥地利的乡村和城镇。

而其中萨尔茨堡音乐节,也称萨尔茨堡夏季艺术节,可算是全球性的文化盛事。萨尔茨堡音乐节于1920年首次举办,今年萨尔茨堡艺术节的举办日期将从7月20日持续至8月30日。

来到萨尔茨堡参加艺术节的游客着迷于胡戈·冯·霍夫曼斯塔尔的剧作《耶德曼》(在德语里面是“每个人”的意思),这也是1920年持续到今天艺术节的保留节目,每次表演都众星云集。近一个世纪以来萨尔茨堡音乐节已成为无与伦比的文化焦点。

所以,奥地利旅行的纯粹之趣换句话来说:就是感受纯粹的生活乐趣。 Austrian coachmen. To prevent from spilling, a thick layer of cream was placed onto the surface, and also kept the coffee warm.

MUSICAL INSPIRATION

Austria also takes pride in her musical heritage. Numerous musicians discovered their inspiration here: Mozart, Haydn, Mahler, Liszt, Bruckner, Strauss and Schubert to name a few. Undoubtedly, music is an integral part of Austrian life, and it has extended to other forms of art — opera and dancing, for example. Every year from June to October, this heritage is celebrated with dozens of art events and festivals held all over the country, from towns to towns and villages to villages.

Among the most prominent of these events is the Salzburg Festival, or Salzburg Summer Art Festival. Established in 1920, this year’s festival will be held from 20 July to 30 August. Audiences are drawn to the play Jedermann (meaning “everyman” in German) by Hugo von Hofmannsthal, an annual event of the festival since 1920. Every time, the performance is expected to be the cultural focus of the whole festival, as it has been for nearly a century. Therefore, the joy of traveling in Austria, in another term, is the joy of life, the joy of pure art.

左页起顺时针CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT PAGE奥地利邮政储蓄银行Austrian Postal Savings Bank百水公寓外立面The façade of Hundertwasser House百水公寓喷泉A fountain near Hundertwasser House施皮特劳焚化炉发电厂局部The local area of District Heating Plant Spittelau霍夫堡皇宫Wiener Hofburg卡尔瓦广场站Karlsplatz Station

左页起顺时针CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT PAGE奥匈帝国的伊利莎白,1874年Ludwig Minnigerode - Elizabeth, Empress of Austria, 1874萨尔茨堡主座教堂Salzburg Cathedral萨尔茨堡室内乐团Camerata Salzburg艾斯班纳咖啡Einspänner Coffee茜茜公主博物馆,“飞翔” Room "Flight", Sisi Museum伊利莎白皇后的起居室和卧室Empress Elisabeth’s living and bedroom

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