柔美雪纺TENDER WAVES

柔美雪纺

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It’s hard to say how chiffon came to be the pop star in the fashion industry. Nevertheless, the lightweight, elegant fabric is often associated with showcasing the gentler female aesthetic. For instance, Valentino, the Italian masters of depicting the ultimate romantic female sex, is now presenting chiffon coat dresses.

Due to its lightweight nature, chiffon is extremely popular for designers to highlight elegance. However, different designers have different ways of dealing with the fabric. For example, Valentino, as mentioned focuses on sportiness through asymmetrical coat dresses, which is quite rare in Pierpaolo Piccioli’s previous designs. It expresses a distinctive message of contemporariness, and goes closer to the self-recognition of modern women. Besides sportiness, Piccioli combines chiffon with sequins and lace, crafting the classic Valentino style. Fellow Italian house Salvatore Ferragamo interprets chiffon in a simultaneously conservative and modernistic manner, keeping the traditional image of chiffon while effectively expressing the philosophy of the texture.

On the contrary, Etro applies huge amounts of decorative elements to chiffon, including lace, filigree and printing to create an exotic female image. Gucci, however, is majorly inspired by ideologies, inserting literary images onto the chiffon and presenting an artistic, but exceptionally gentle figure.

Moreover, other designers like Tom Ford apply chiffon in evening gowns. Though not magnificent in visual effects, they depict a sexy and mysterious image through layers of folds and masterful draping.

In terms of this season’s accessories, designers direct their attention to the effect matched with chiffon, featuring low-saturated sunglasses, simplistic sandals and of course sequin and embroidery elements.

很难说清楚雪纺这一面料是在哪位设计大腕手上成为时装设计里“当红明星”的,但不可否认,这种轻盈飘逸的面料时常和女性的柔美联结在一起,比如意大利国宝级的时装屋Valentino时常推出的雪纺长裙就可看成是刻画女性浪漫气质的殿堂级作品了。因为轻盈飘逸的特性,雪纺因其易于用来表达女性形象的特质成为了设计师们的最爱。但是,这种面料在不同的设计师手里,有着不同的用法,这一季的作品中的女性形象尽管大多柔和唯美,但设计细节和理念各不相同。比如刚才提到的Valentino,这一季用雪纺设计的长纱裙,不对称的开襟设计平添了几分运动感,这在设计总监Pierpaolo Piccioli之前的设计中是鲜少见到的,透出了明显的当代感,也更符合当下社会的女性自我认知。除了运动风,Piccioli也同样把雪纺和亮片装饰、蕾丝拼贴结合在一起,这是Valentino的常见风格。同样来自意大利的Salvatore Ferragamo运用雪纺设计出的风格兼具保守和摩登的优雅感,一方面没有改变众人对雪纺传统的印象,另一方面在设计中又用简约的理念完成了摩登感的表达。与此相反,Etro在雪纺上大量运用了各种装饰元素,蕾丝、嵌丝和印花,让这种异域风格中充满了女性的柔美。Gucci对雪纺的运用则主要以意识形态的灵感为线索,把文学艺术世界中的意象通过雪纺为载体表达在了时装上,同样轻柔,但通过珠宝装饰和拼接刺绣等设计,又传达出文艺但不失柔美的女性形象。此外,也有设计师如Tom Ford,把雪纺用在了女性晚装的设计上,虽然没有珠光宝气,但通过紧裹和重叠褶皱的设计,勾画出性感而神秘的气质。在配饰方面,这一季的设计师似乎都偏爱能和雪纺的轻盈相得益彰的选择,如低饱和度色彩的太阳镜、设计简约的凉鞋。当然,亮片和刺绣元素也是绝佳选择,和雪纺的亚光质感形成对比,在造型中堪称点睛之笔。

作者Author/编辑Editor:王烨昇Johnny Wang

轻盈飘逸、带着幻想和浪漫,雪纺面料的运用成为本季设计师们用来刻画不同女性形象的当红潮流。 Lightweight, romantic and subtly fantastic. Chiffon is the most beloved fabric this season.

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