時裝設計師們如今越來越習慣在秀場發佈最新一季作品之後，立即推出成衣銷售。其實，為了盡快滿足時裝迷的入貨慾望，即見即買這股全新購物趨勢風行的背後，有極為充分的理由。More and more, designers are offering their latest looks almost right off the runway. Turns out, there are practical reasons behind giving fashion lovers what they want, righ
試想像一下，你二月份在Burberry秀場上看到的那件美麗的冬裝外套，至少要等到炎熱潮濕的八月才能買到。到那時，購買的慾望早就消失無踪了，而且一旦進入盛夏季節，你就會完全失去買入一件冬裝外套的慾望。幸好從去年開始，包括Burberry, Hugo Boss, Ralph Lauren在內的國際一線大牌開始推行“即見即買”的銷售策略，為時裝迷們即時送上秀場新款。歡迎來到時裝購買的新世界：顧客在發佈會看中心怡的款式，短短幾個小時之後就能買到。以前時裝秀場發佈會的款式比實際公開發售的時間提早很多，原因主要有幾個：品牌願意先向買手和媒體透露下一季的流行趨勢，以便有充足的時間觀察反應，與供貨商決定生產的數量，然後再開始接受訂單。因 PICTURE THE PERFECT BURBERRY WINTER COAT WALKING DOWN A RUNWAY IN FEBRUARY that normally would not be available in stores until the sticky summer heat of August, months later. By then, the desire is gone, and for practical seasonal reasons you no longer want that coat. Fortunately for fashion lovers, the “see-now, buy-now trend” launched by some of the world’s leading fashion houses last year, including Burberry, Hugo Boss, and Ralph Lauren, delivers consumers instant fashion gratification. Welcome to the new world of immediate shopping, where customers can see a fashion show and snap up key pieces within hours of eyeballing them.
此大家通常要等6個月左右的時間，才能買到秀場發佈的系列款式。但如今社交媒體的興起，改變了時裝設計師與顧客之間的互動方式。紐約流行設計學院（ Fashion Institute of Technology）時尚管理系副教授Shawn Carter說：『Insta, Facebook, Snapchat這些社交媒體，都是品牌和顧客交流互動的好機會。如今整個行業都能感覺到顧客看見就想立即買入的迫切心情。』新的時裝購買方式由此興起，從人人熱搶的限量發售版到整個當季系列，甚至是秀場模特用的化妝品，都能即見即買了。Carter這樣評論這股新趨勢：『顧客如今能夠參與決定時裝系列的創作風格，購買時裝的方式也發生了顛覆，這是激動人心的事情。以前通常是由時裝編輯和買手決定風尚走向，但如今的顧客會說：不用了，我知道自己想要什麼。我有朋友分享、有Snapchat可以交流信息，我會告訴你我想要什麼。』時裝品牌極大地受益於由這些消費者組成的即時互動平台，發佈與銷售兩者之間的差距在日漸縮小，品牌得以專心投入設計創作。不然的話，從
Historically, fashion shows have preceded the release of collections to accomplish several things: reveal trends to buyers and media, allow the brands to coordinate with suppliers to determine the volume they will produce, and begin to take orders. One can expect that the actual looks from the runway will be available to buy around six months after a show. But social media is changing the way that designers interact with customers. “We’ve got Insta, Facebook, Snapchat—all these opportunities to interact with the consumer. There is a sense of urgency; she just has to have it now,” says Shawn Carter, Associate Professor of Fashion Business Management at the Fashion Institute of Technology, in New York. The trend heralds a new way of buying, whether it is snaring a coveted, hard-to-get item or an entire collection, complete with the makeup worn on the “virtual” runway. “This is very exciting because customers are curating the collections of fashion now, and that is a seismic shift in the way we buy. We are used to having fashion editors and buyers curating it, but now the consumer is saying, ‘No, I know what I want. I’ve got my friends, I’ve got Snapchat, and I’ll tell you what I want,’” Carter says. And while fashion brands are jumping on the opportunity that an instant community of consumer-curators presents, closing the gap between the reveal and the sale also allows them to hold on to the integrity of their designs. After all, in the six months between Fashion Week and when clothing finds its way to the racks, so-called fast fashion companies have ample time to produce similar designs that are “inspired by” a designer’s collection without technically violating intellectual property laws. Linda Switzer, Vice President of Retail at Wynn Macau and Wynn Palace in Cotai, says the see-now buy-now trend lends itself well to Macau, where demand for fashion is strong. “Macau is a tourist des-
時裝周天橋發佈到商店貨架發售之間那漫長的六個月裡，很多所謂的快時尚公司已經有足夠時間推出相似的設計，號稱向設計師的靈感『致敬』，而不必受到知識產權法規管。永利澳門和永利皇宮路氹的零售副總監Linda Switzer說，即見即買的趨勢，非常適合澳門這個時尚購物之都：『澳門作為旅遊目的地，購物是一大熱門內容。』時尚愛好者們不必遠赴歐洲，在酒店裡就能買到同樣的貨品。永利酒店在Burberry, Hugo Boss和Ralph Lauren的新季發佈會舉行後的24小時內，就能立即為客人提供訂購服務。尤其在永利皇宮路氹，幾乎能訂到這三大品牌的全部最新系列，全球沒有多少地方能做到。Switzer說：『永利澳門裡擁有多間世界頂級水準的奢侈品牌店鋪，能為最尊貴和高要求的賓客提供獨特的時尚貨品。』其他同樣參與到即見即買潮流的品牌包括有Moschino, Alberta Ferretti和Alexander Wang。Burberry在去年二月宣布對秀場系列的創作、發佈和銷售作出調整，率先開創直接面對消費者的銷售模式。9月份，品牌宣布以每年兩場發佈會取代以往每年四場的頻率，並且首次將男、女裝集中在同一場發佈會裡。在宣布以上決定的時候， Burberry首席创意官兼首席执行官Christopher Bailey表示，这些变化将使公司能够『更全面地將我們在秀場上營造的體驗帶給觀眾，讓顧客能真實地即時接觸到最新系列。無論是現場直播、直接訂購秀場款還是社交網絡互動宣傳，這些都是時尚行業的创新方式，並且會繼續進化下去。』Carter認為设计师們提早發佈下個季節作品的做法，會引起顧客的反季節搶購慾望：『二月份發佈的都是秋季款，尽管我们现在才剛剛進入初夏，大家的購買需求已經非常強烈。現在人人都在反季節入貨。』
tination, and shopping is an impulse,” she says, noting that fashion lovers who do not go to the European shows can simply buy the collections at the resorts. All Wynn resorts will offer portions of Burberry, Hugo Boss, and Ralph Lauren fashion collections within 24 hours of the shows, and Wynn Palace specifically will have all, or nearly all, the collections—one of a handful of places around the world that will carry all three. “Macau, and Wynn is particular, has some of the highest volume of luxury stores in the world. Wynn gets special pieces due to our affluent and discerning travelers,” Switzer says. Other brands trying out the trend include Moschino, Alberta Ferretti, and Alexander Wang. Burberry spearheaded the straight-to-consumer model when it announced plans to change the way it creates, presents, and sells its runway collection in February of last year. In September, the brand replaced its four-show calendar with two shows, for the first time combining its womenswear and menswear collections on the runway. At the time of the announcement, Christopher Bailey, Burberry Chief Creative Officer and CEO, said the changes would allow the company to “build a closer connection between the experience that we create with our runway shows and the moment when people can physically explore the collections for themselves. From live streaming to ordering straight from the runway to live social media campaigns, this is the latest step in a creative process that will continue to evolve.” Carter says that designers had generated a sense of urgency by rushing the seasons, giving rise to something of a false demand. “February shows are all about fall, even though we are at the start of summer right now. That’s creating demand, and now people are buying out of season,” she explains.
Carter说，開創這股購買潮流的Burberry,一直都走在研究客戶需求的最前方：『他們可能會先生產20件好看的大衣，並優先出售給頂級客戶。待20件全部售空之後，這種缺貨的局面便會吸引更多顧客到店鋪預訂，即使要等上一陣，他們也要得到它。』時尚分析師們正在密切關注有多少品牌會參與到即見即買的潮流中。馮氏全球零售與科技運營總監Deborah Weinswig在今年早時發佈一份時尚趨勢特別報告中指出，數字化信息興起、製造業效率提升、全球一體化發展，甚至到全球氣溫暖化的趨勢，都將會推動時裝屋轉向更即時、當季的銷售策略。 根據2016年月6 Verdict Retail在英國進行的調查顯示，近86％的消費者喜歡根據當下的天氣買衣服，超過半數的人不喜歡提前購買下個季節的服裝。Weinswig總結說，儘管物流供應的限制讓品牌有必要重新考慮現有的供應鏈結構，『但時尚界很有可能繼續向著更直接面對顧客的零售模式發展。』零售商將越來越多地關注科技創新帶來的新銷售模式，比如3D虛擬試衣間，比如能提供客戶服務的社交媒體工具。卡特認為換句話來說，『時尚購物不必再局限在商場內了，如今酒店的精品店和機場都能有非常高水準的時尚貨品出售。 時尚就在你的手機、電腦裡，隨時都能買到。 你可以舒舒服服地在酒店、在家中、旅途上隨時購物。』她認為如今顧客的心聲是這樣的：『我現在就想買。無論我身在中國、倫敦、墨西哥、沙特阿拉伯、紐約還是洛杉磯，看見其他用戶在網絡上、在snapchat, twitter上分享，所以我也想擁有。』嗯，零售業至少有一件事至今沒有改變：客戶永遠是對的。
Burberry, which initiated the new trend, has been at the forefront of identifying its customers and understanding their wants, she says. “They might produce 20 of these beautiful coats and give them to their top customers first. It is then sold out, which creates demand so other customers come to the store. Even if they have to wait a little longer, they will get it.” Analysts are keeping a close watch on how many brands will participate. In a special report on the trend earlier this year, Fung Global Retail & Technology Managing Director Deborah Weinswig noted that everything from the rise of digitization and manufacturing efficiencies to globalization and even global warming is pushing fashion houses toward more immediate collections. According to a Verdict Retail survey conducted in the UK in June 2016, nearly 86 percent of consumers prefer buying clothes to wear for the current weather, and more than half don’t like purchasing apparel before the next season. Despite the logistical challenges of having to rethink existing supply chains, Weinswig concluded, “It is very likely that the fashion industry will generally continue to evolve toward a more straight-to-retail model.” Retailers will increasingly look toward technological innovations like 3-D virtual fitting rooms and social media tools for customer service. In other words, says Carter, “Fashion is no longer about malls—beautiful fashion is being offered in hotel boutiques, at the airport. Fashion is on your phone and laptop. You can buy it from the comfort of your hotel or your home or when you are traveling.” The mind of today’s customer, she says, reads something like this: “I want it now. I want it in China. I want it in London, Mexico, Saudi Arabia, New York, and LA because customers online are sharing it, Snapchatting it, and tweeting it.” At least one thing hasn’t changed in retail: The customer is always right.
Mercedes-benz時裝週上，觀眾紛紛用手機拍下天橋現場Guests snap photos along a runway at Mercedes-benz Fashion Week.