即享時尚樂趣

時裝設計師們如今越來越習慣在秀場發佈最新一季作品之後,立即推出成衣銷售。其實,為了盡快滿足時裝迷的入貨慾望,即見即買這股全新購物趨勢風行的背後,有極為充分的理由。More and more, de­sign­ers are of­fer­ing their lat­est looks al­most right off the run­way. Turns out, there are prac­ti­cal rea­sons be­hind giv­ing fash­ion lovers what they want, righ

Wynn Magazine - - CONTENTS - By Julie Earle-levine

時裝設計師們如今越來越習慣在秀場發佈最新一季作品之後立即推出成衣銷售。其實,為了盡快滿足時裝迷的購買慾望,即見即買這股全新購物趨勢風行的背後,有極為充分的理由。

試想像一下,你二月份在Burber­ry秀場上看到的那件美麗的冬裝外套,至少要等到炎熱潮濕的八月才能買到。到那時,購買的慾望早就消失無踪了,而且一旦進入盛夏季節,你就會完全失去買入一件冬裝外套的慾望。幸好從去年開始,包括Burberry, Hugo Boss, Ralph Lau­ren在內的國際一線大牌開始推行“即見即買”的銷售策略,為時裝迷們即時送上秀場新款。歡迎來到時裝購買的新世界:顧客在發佈會看中心怡的款式,短短幾個小時之後就能買到。以前時裝秀場發佈會的款式比實際公開發售的時間提早很多,原因主要有幾個:品牌願意先向買手和媒體透露下一季的流行趨勢,以便有充足的時間觀察反應,與供貨商決定生產的數量,然後再開始接受訂單。因 PIC­TURE THE PER­FECT BURBERRY WIN­TER COAT WALK­ING DOWN A RUN­WAY IN FE­BRU­ARY that nor­mally would not be avail­able in stores un­til the sticky sum­mer heat of Au­gust, months later. By then, the de­sire is gone, and for prac­ti­cal sea­sonal rea­sons you no longer want that coat. For­tu­nately for fash­ion lovers, the “see-now, buy-now trend” launched by some of the world’s lead­ing fash­ion houses last year, in­clud­ing Burberry, Hugo Boss, and Ralph Lau­ren, de­liv­ers con­sumers in­stant fash­ion grat­i­fi­ca­tion. Wel­come to the new world of im­me­di­ate shop­ping, where cus­tomers can see a fash­ion show and snap up key pieces within hours of eye­balling them.

此大家通常要等6個月左右的時間,才能買到秀場發佈的系列款式。但如今社交媒體的興起,改變了時裝設計師與顧客之間的互動方式。紐約流行設計學院( Fash­ion In­sti­tute of Tech­nol­ogy)時尚管理系副教授Shawn Carter說:『In­sta, Face­book, Snapchat這些社交媒體,都是品牌和顧客交流互動的好機會。如今整個行業都能感覺到顧客看見就想立即買入的迫切心情。』新的時裝購買方式由此興起,從人人熱搶的限量發售版到整個當季系列,甚至是秀場模特用的化妝品,都能即見即買了。Carter這樣評論這股新趨勢:『顧客如今能夠參與決定時裝系列的創作風格,購買時裝的方式也發生了顛覆,這是激動人心的事情。以前通常是由時裝編輯和買手決定風尚走向,但如今的顧客會說:不用了,我知道自己想要什麼。我有朋友分享、有S­napchat可以交流信息,我會告訴你我想要什麼。』時裝品牌極大地受益於由這些消費者組成的即時互動平台,發佈與銷售兩者之間的差距在日漸縮小,品牌得以專心投入設計創作。不然的話,從

His­tor­i­cally, fash­ion shows have pre­ceded the re­lease of col­lec­tions to ac­com­plish sev­eral things: re­veal trends to buy­ers and me­dia, al­low the brands to co­or­di­nate with sup­pli­ers to de­ter­mine the vol­ume they will pro­duce, and be­gin to take or­ders. One can ex­pect that the ac­tual looks from the run­way will be avail­able to buy around six months af­ter a show. But so­cial me­dia is chang­ing the way that de­sign­ers in­ter­act with cus­tomers. “We’ve got In­sta, Face­book, Snapchat—all th­ese op­por­tu­ni­ties to in­ter­act with the con­sumer. There is a sense of ur­gency; she just has to have it now,” says Shawn Carter, As­so­ci­ate Pro­fes­sor of Fash­ion Busi­ness Man­age­ment at the Fash­ion In­sti­tute of Tech­nol­ogy, in New York. The trend her­alds a new way of buy­ing, whether it is snar­ing a cov­eted, hard-to-get item or an en­tire col­lec­tion, com­plete with the makeup worn on the “vir­tual” run­way. “This is very ex­cit­ing be­cause cus­tomers are cu­rat­ing the col­lec­tions of fash­ion now, and that is a seis­mic shift in the way we buy. We are used to hav­ing fash­ion ed­i­tors and buy­ers cu­rat­ing it, but now the con­sumer is say­ing, ‘No, I know what I want. I’ve got my friends, I’ve got Snapchat, and I’ll tell you what I want,’” Carter says. And while fash­ion brands are jump­ing on the op­por­tu­nity that an in­stant com­mu­nity of con­sumer-cu­ra­tors presents, clos­ing the gap be­tween the re­veal and the sale also al­lows them to hold on to the in­tegrity of their de­signs. Af­ter all, in the six months be­tween Fash­ion Week and when cloth­ing finds its way to the racks, so-called fast fash­ion com­pa­nies have am­ple time to pro­duce sim­i­lar de­signs that are “in­spired by” a de­signer’s col­lec­tion with­out tech­ni­cally vi­o­lat­ing in­tel­lec­tual prop­erty laws. Linda Switzer, Vice Pres­i­dent of Re­tail at Wynn Ma­cau and Wynn Palace in Co­tai, says the see-now buy-now trend lends it­self well to Ma­cau, where de­mand for fash­ion is strong. “Ma­cau is a tourist des-

時裝周天橋發佈到商店貨架發售之間那漫長的六個月裡,很多所謂的快時尚公司已經有足夠時間推出相似的設計,號稱向設計師的靈感『致敬』,而不必受到知識產權法規管。永利澳門和永利皇宮路氹的零售副總監Linda Switzer說,即見即買的趨勢,非常適合澳門這個時尚購物之都:『澳門作為旅遊目的地,購物是一大熱門內容。』時尚愛好者們不必遠赴歐洲,在酒店裡就能買到同樣的貨品。永利酒店在Burberry, Hugo Boss和Ralph Lau­ren的新季發佈會舉行後的24小時內,就能立即為客人提供訂購服務。尤其在永利皇宮路氹,幾乎能訂到這三大品牌的全部最新系列,全球沒有多少地方能做到。Switzer說:『永利澳門裡擁有多間世界頂級水準的奢侈品牌店鋪,能為最尊貴和高要求的賓客提供獨特的時尚貨品。』其他同樣參與到即見即買潮流的品牌包括有Moschino, Al­berta Fer­ret­ti和Alexan­der Wang。Burber­ry在去年二月宣布對秀場系列的創作、發佈和銷售作出調整,率先開創直接面對消費者的銷售模式。9月份,品牌宣布以每年兩場發佈會取代以往每年四場的頻率,並且首次將男、女裝集中在同一場發佈會裡。在宣布以上決定的時候, Burber­ry首席创意官兼首席执行官Christo­pher Bai­ley表示,这些变化将使公司能够『更全面地將我們在秀場上營造的體驗帶給觀眾,讓顧客能真實地即時接觸到最新系列。無論是現場直播、直接訂購秀場款還是社交網絡互動宣傳,這些都是時尚行業的创新方式,並且會繼續進化下去。』Carter認為设计师們提早發佈下個季節作品的做法,會引起顧客的反季節搶購慾望:『二月份發佈的都是秋季款,尽管我们现在才剛剛進入初夏,大家的購買需求已經非常強烈。現在人人都在反季節入貨。』

tina­tion, and shop­ping is an im­pulse,” she says, not­ing that fash­ion lovers who do not go to the Euro­pean shows can sim­ply buy the col­lec­tions at the re­sorts. All Wynn re­sorts will of­fer por­tions of Burberry, Hugo Boss, and Ralph Lau­ren fash­ion col­lec­tions within 24 hours of the shows, and Wynn Palace specif­i­cally will have all, or nearly all, the col­lec­tions—one of a hand­ful of places around the world that will carry all three. “Ma­cau, and Wynn is par­tic­u­lar, has some of the high­est vol­ume of lux­ury stores in the world. Wynn gets spe­cial pieces due to our af­flu­ent and dis­cern­ing trav­el­ers,” Switzer says. Other brands try­ing out the trend in­clude Moschino, Al­berta Fer­retti, and Alexan­der Wang. Burberry spear­headed the straight-to-con­sumer model when it an­nounced plans to change the way it cre­ates, presents, and sells its run­way col­lec­tion in Fe­bru­ary of last year. In Septem­ber, the brand re­placed its four-show cal­en­dar with two shows, for the first time com­bin­ing its wom­enswear and menswear col­lec­tions on the run­way. At the time of the an­nounce­ment, Christo­pher Bai­ley, Burberry Chief Cre­ative Of­fi­cer and CEO, said the changes would al­low the com­pany to “build a closer con­nec­tion be­tween the ex­pe­ri­ence that we cre­ate with our run­way shows and the mo­ment when peo­ple can phys­i­cally ex­plore the col­lec­tions for them­selves. From live stream­ing to or­der­ing straight from the run­way to live so­cial me­dia cam­paigns, this is the lat­est step in a cre­ative process that will con­tinue to evolve.” Carter says that de­sign­ers had gen­er­ated a sense of ur­gency by rush­ing the sea­sons, giv­ing rise to some­thing of a false de­mand. “Fe­bru­ary shows are all about fall, even though we are at the start of sum­mer right now. That’s cre­at­ing de­mand, and now peo­ple are buy­ing out of sea­son,” she ex­plains.

Carter说,開創這股購買潮流的Burberry,一直都走在研究客戶需求的最前方:『他們可能會先生產20件好看的大衣,並優先出售給頂級客戶。待20件全部售空之後,這種缺貨的局面便會吸引更多顧客到店鋪預訂,即使要等上一陣,他們也要得到它。』時尚分析師們正在密切關注有多少品牌會參與到即見即買的潮流中。馮氏全球零售與科技運營總監Deb­o­rah Wein­swig在今年早時發佈一份時尚趨勢特別報告中指出,數字化信息興起、製造業效率提升、全球一體化發展,甚至到全球氣溫暖化的趨勢,都將會推動時裝屋轉向更即時、當季的銷售策略。 根據2016年月6 Ver­dict Re­tail在英國進行的調查顯示,近86%的消費者喜歡根據當下的天氣買衣服,超過半數的人不喜歡提前購買下個季節的服裝。Wein­swig總結說,儘管物流供應的限制讓品牌有必要重新考慮現有的供應鏈結構,『但時尚界很有可能繼續向著更直接面對顧客的零售模式發展。』零售商將越來越多地關注科技創新帶來的新銷售模式,比如3D虛擬試衣間,比如能提供客戶服務的社交媒體工具。卡特認為換句話來說,『時尚購物不必再局限在商場內了,如今酒店的精品店和機場都能有非常高水準的時尚貨品出售。 時尚就在你的手機、電腦裡,隨時都能買到。 你可以舒舒服服地在酒店、在家中、旅途上隨時購物。』她認為如今顧客的心聲是這樣的:『我現在就想買。無論我身在中國、倫敦、墨西哥、沙特阿拉伯、紐約還是洛杉磯,看見其他用戶在網絡上、在s­napchat, twit­ter上分享,所以我也想擁有。』嗯,零售業至少有一件事至今沒有改變:客戶永遠是對的。

Burberry, which ini­ti­ated the new trend, has been at the fore­front of iden­ti­fy­ing its cus­tomers and un­der­stand­ing their wants, she says. “They might pro­duce 20 of th­ese beau­ti­ful coats and give them to their top cus­tomers first. It is then sold out, which cre­ates de­mand so other cus­tomers come to the store. Even if they have to wait a lit­tle longer, they will get it.” An­a­lysts are keep­ing a close watch on how many brands will par­tic­i­pate. In a spe­cial re­port on the trend ear­lier this year, Fung Global Re­tail & Tech­nol­ogy Manag­ing Direc­tor Deb­o­rah Wein­swig noted that ev­ery­thing from the rise of dig­i­ti­za­tion and man­u­fac­tur­ing ef­fi­cien­cies to glob­al­iza­tion and even global warm­ing is push­ing fash­ion houses to­ward more im­me­di­ate col­lec­tions. Ac­cord­ing to a Ver­dict Re­tail sur­vey con­ducted in the UK in June 2016, nearly 86 per­cent of con­sumers pre­fer buy­ing clothes to wear for the cur­rent weather, and more than half don’t like pur­chas­ing ap­parel be­fore the next sea­son. De­spite the lo­gis­ti­cal chal­lenges of hav­ing to rethink ex­ist­ing sup­ply chains, Wein­swig con­cluded, “It is very likely that the fash­ion in­dus­try will gen­er­ally con­tinue to evolve to­ward a more straight-to-re­tail model.” Re­tail­ers will in­creas­ingly look to­ward tech­no­log­i­cal in­no­va­tions like 3-D vir­tual fit­ting rooms and so­cial me­dia tools for cus­tomer ser­vice. In other words, says Carter, “Fash­ion is no longer about malls—beau­ti­ful fash­ion is be­ing of­fered in ho­tel bou­tiques, at the air­port. Fash­ion is on your phone and lap­top. You can buy it from the com­fort of your ho­tel or your home or when you are trav­el­ing.” The mind of to­day’s cus­tomer, she says, reads some­thing like this: “I want it now. I want it in China. I want it in Lon­don, Mex­ico, Saudi Ara­bia, New York, and LA be­cause cus­tomers on­line are shar­ing it, Snapchat­ting it, and tweet­ing it.” At least one thing hasn’t changed in re­tail: The cus­tomer is al­ways right.

Mercedes-ben­z時裝週上,觀眾紛紛用手機拍下天橋現場Guests snap pho­tos along a run­way at Mercedes-benz Fash­ion Week.

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