The Nigerian officials were extremely friendly and courteous and advised us on the best route to Abuja. We then headed off towards Ibadan and were stopped nearly 10 times within a distance of 15 km, all by different officials to check and recheck our passports. Because of this slow pace, we opted to camp wild though all police had advised against it. We found a school in the bush and parked in the playground for the night. We woke early and headed towards Ibadan where we stopped to visit Mapo Hall, built in 1923 by the British to administer the Western area of Nigeria. We were given a very informative tour of the building. Our guide explained the history as well as the politics behind it, even letters written by the British governor to the “Bale” about local issues dating back to 1917. All these letters had been left on top of an old filing cabinet in a disused room. Abuja is probably the newest, shiniest city in Africa. In fact, it could be a European city with its tall glass clad buildings and wide streets ( if it wasn’t for all the rubbish!). The traffic is less manic than in other cities and it has a good feel about it. We carried on to the Sheraton where they allow overlanders to camp at the back of the hotel. Here we met Dave and Natalie ( a South African and French couple) who were doing the same route in the opposite direction, in the same vehicle as ours. However, their vehicle had seen better days. Dave had some interesting stories to share. He had done a few trips through Africa on a motorbike before, and his Landy was as loaded as a bush taxi. He even had a Bedouin tent on top. We stayed at the Sheraton for another five days and applied for the following visas: Cameroon ( within 12 hours, 50 000 CFA Francs, and they only accept the West African CFA); Angola ($ 30, three working days); and DRC ( express, N25 000). During our stay, a couple of bikers from the UK, who were on their way to South Africa, arrived. They intended to return up the east coast over nine to 12 months. We planned to leave Abuja early in the morning but decided to rescue a six- monthold puppy from the kennels run by locals next to the Sheraton. He was very nervous and frightened. But every day he did better and it was a delight to see him slowly start to behave like a dog of his age should do. We visited Jos museum and zoo, the village Bisichi next to the old tin mines and the house where my family and I lived that is now a ruin. We were almost scammed by someone who had been recommended by the kennel owner, pretending to be a vet. He asked for a ridiculous amount of money for the travel documents for the dog, which we had now named Niger. However, we managed to find a proper vet, got Niger vaccinated and collected all the paperwork necessary to cross Africa. The chipping and passport we decided to leave until we got to Namibia. The time had come for Niger to say goodbye to Danjuma and his family and start our drive south to Ekok and the Cameroon border.