Rare and pre­cious,

Bordeaux J'Adore - - Contents - SUZANNE NEL­SON

Small and beau­ti­ful mu­se­ums ......... . .

A cor­nu­copia of cul­tural trea­sures with an impressive col­lec­tion of fine, con­tem­po­rary and dec­o­ra­tive art­works, as well as his­tory and arche­ol­ogy, re­flect­ing the wealth of this small Euro­pean city. These two mu­se­ums are within walk­ing dis­tance of one an­other, and are eas­ily vis­ited for a mem­o­rable hour or two. They prove, once again, that ex­tra­or­di­nary things of­ten come in small doses


◆ Musée des Beaux-arts

The re­cently ren­o­vated Musée des Beaux Arts boasts a world­class col­lec­tion that in­cludes mas­ter­pieces by Delacroix, Rodin, Bon­heur, Corot, Matisse, Rubens and Bordeaux artists Odilon Re­don, Al­bert Mar­quet and An­dré Lhote. Chil­dren and adults alike will be mes­merised by the im­mense, dra­matic paint­ings like Benjamin Con­stant’s Moroc­can Pris­on­ers, Al­fred Smith’s ‘The Em­bank­ment of Bordeaux’, Rosa Bon­heur’s ‘Tread­ing the Wheat in Ca­mar­gue’, Eu­gene Delacroix’s ‘Greece on the ruins of Mes­so­longhi’, and Theodore Gudin’s ‘The Act of Hero­ism by Cap­tain Desse, from Bordeaux, to­wards the dutch ship Colum­bus’.

20, cours d’al­bret, 05 56 10 20 56 www.musba-bordeaux.fr

Open ev­ery day from 11 am to 6 pm

Closed Tues­day and Bank Hol­i­days.

◆ MADD - Musée des Arts Dé­co­rat­ifs et du De­sign

The Mu­seum of Dec­o­ra­tive Arts & De­sign is housed in Ho­tel de La­lande, a re-mark­able ex­am­ple of how the Bordeaux aris­toc­racy lived dur­ing the pe­riod of the An­cien Régime. The col­lec­tion is rich and var­ied, in­clud­ing fur­ni­ture, ce­ram­ics,

glass, sil­ver, musical in­stru­ments, minia­tures, ta­ble set­tings, giv­ing a faith­ful and in­spir­ing pre­sen­ta­tion of French dec­o­ra­tive arts at the time of the French Revo­lu­tion.

39, rue Bouf­fard, 05 56 10 14 00, www.bordeaux.fr/p63910/musee-des-arts-dec­o­rat­ifs

Open ev­ery day from 11:00 am to 6:00 pm

Closed Tues­days and Bank Hol­i­days

Tick­ets €3 - €5, free en­trance for young peo­ple un­der 18 years old, pass hold­ers, hand­i­capped vis­i­tors, and for ev­ery­one first Sun­day of the month.

◆ Musée de la Créa­tion Franche

This unique mu­seum has given it­self the mission of sup­port­ing liv­ing artists work­ing out­side the main­stream. The art is called art brut or out­sider art. The mu­seum is lo­cated in a leafy park in Bè­gles, not far from the ring road or ‘boule­vard’ that de­lin­eates the city of Bordeaux.

58, av­enue Maréchal-de-lat­tre-de-tas­signy,

33130 Bè­gles, 05 56 85 81 73, www.musee-cre­ation­franche.com

Open March through Oc­to­ber 3 to 7 pm,

Novem­ber through Fe­bru­ary 2 to 6 pm

Free en­trance.

◆ Musée des Douanes

The Musée des Douanes is like a grand cab­i­net of cu­riosi­ties set in the mag­nif­i­cent, arched hall of the orig­i­nal cus­toms build­ing built be­tween 1735 and 1738 for the Gen­eral Farm, the cus­toms sys­tem used prior to the French Revo­lu­tion. It show­cases thou­sands of ob­jects, in­clud­ing opium pipes, a real stuffed lion, his­tor­i­cal uni­forms and weapons, tools and mod­els, the brigades’ reg­is­ters re­count­ing their in­ves­ti­ga­tions, as well as lovely works of art - a paint­ing by Claude Monet ‘Ca­bane des Douaniers’ and a draw­ing by Sal­vador Dali. The ar­chives date back to 1603 stor­ing of­fi­cial procla­ma­tions by the King of France.

1, quai de la Douane, + 33 (0) 5 56 48 82 82, www.musee-douanes.fr

Open Tues­day to Sun­day from 10 am to 6 pm. Tick­ets €1.50 to €3; un­der 18s free; free to ev­ery­one the first Sun­day of the month.

◆ CAPC - Musée d’art Con­tem­po­rain de Bordeaux

The mu­seum of con­tem­po­rary art was cre­ated in a colo­nial ware­house forty years ago to show­case the work of emerg­ing artists with a per­ma­nent col­lec­tion with 1,300 works by 190 artists, in­clud­ing Robert Com­bas, An­nette Mes­sager, Mario Merz and Richard Long.

7, rue Fer­rère, 05 56 00 81 50, www.capc-bordeaux.fr

Open Tues­day, Thurs­day to Sun­day 11:00 am to 6:00 pm, Wed­nes­days 11:00 - 8:00 pm. Closed Mon­day and Bank Hol­i­days Tick­ets €2 - €6.50, free en­trance with Bordeaux Metropole City pass and ev­ery first Sun­day of the month (ex­cept in July and Au­gust), free en­trance for young peo­ple un­der 18 years old.

◆ Cen­tre Jean-moulin

This mu­seum is de­voted to the Sec­ond World War and has an in­ter­est­ing and some­times poignant dis­play of ob­jects from the French re­sis­tance and Al­lied Forces. There is also an ex­ten­sive col­lec­tion of archival doc­u­ments open to stu­dents, re­searchers and his­to­ri­ans.

Place Jean-moulin, 05 56 10 19 90

Open Tues­day to Sun­day 2pm to 6 pm, closed Mon­day and Bank Hol­i­days

Free en­trance.

◆ Musée d’ethno­gra­phie

The mu­seum has a col­lec­tion of 6,000 ob­jects from around the world, mainly Asia and from the 19th Cen­tury. Most of the col­lec­tion comes from the old Tro­cadero Mu­seum in Paris. Many of the ob­jects were gath­ered by French ex­plor­ers and colonists. Univer­sité de Bordeaux, Bâ­ti­ments E,

3 ter, place de la Vic­toire, 05 57 57 31 61,

Open Mon­day to Thurs­day from 2 pm to 6 pm,

Fri­day 10 am to noon

Free en­trance.


‘Houselife’ which in­tro­duced con­tem­po­rary items in the Madd’s col­lec­tion.


Em­barka­tion of the duchess of An­goulême in Pauil­lac by An­toine-jean Gros in Mu­seum of Fine Arts.


‘Fire of the steamer Aus­tria’ by Eu­gene Is­abey.


Mu­seum of free cre­ation Bè­gles.

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