The In­sti­tu­tions

Bordeaux J'Adore - - Hot Tables -

u Le Chapon Fin

Dur­ing the 19th cen­tury, kings from all over Europe dined in the sump­tu­ous din­ing room sculpted to re­sem­ble a wild rock­ery by the ar­chi­tect Cy­prien Al­fred-duprat. Later, the 11-term prime min­is­ter Aris­tide Briand be­came a reg­u­lar. To­day, the mock-grotto ef­fect is still in­tact, and the restau­rant is surf­ing a new wave of pop­u­lar­ity. Clas­sic French dishes are rein­ter­preted by chef Ni­co­las Nguyen Van Hai along cleaner, con­tem­po­rary lines, like the seared foie gras with quince com­pote and hazel­nut emul­sion. A set 4 course lunch will set you back €39, and the tast­ing menu €69.

5, rue Mon­tesquieu. 05 56 79 10 10

u La Brasserie Borde­laise

This low-lit wine cave is one of Bordeaux’s best loved, and most ac­ces­si­ble din­ing op­tions. Chef Ni­co­las Lascombes’ un­pre­ten­tious but metic­u­lous cook­ing al­lows the re­gion’s pro­duits du ter­roir to truly shine. Come for the im­pres­sive range of high grade Span­ish bel­lota, ser­rano and iberico hams, for the mi-cuit foie gras, or for Lam­prey in red wine Borde­lais-style. Se­ri­ous steaks and con­fit’d meats dom­i­nate the menu. For desert, the ‘merveilles’, a kind of light dough­nut served with creme anglaise, is stand-out.

50, rue Saint-rémi. 05 57 87 11 91

u Le Noailles

This Parisian-style brasserie first opened its doors in 1932, and is now one of the most trusted es­tab­lish­ments in town. Lo­cals come here to spot Borde­lais-celebri­ties, the best­known among them is the city’s mayor, Alain Juppé. Les Noailles’ sig­na­ture dishes in­clude omelette with truf­fles, crab tartare with lime, gre­nier medo­cain (spiced pig’s stom­ach), calve’s liver, sole me­u­nier and the coarse-grained sausage, an­douil­lette. For desert there are ex­quis­ite pâtis­series, prof­iteroles and a per­fectly-bal­anced lemon meringue tart.

12, al­lées Tourny. 05 56 81 94 45

u La Tupiña

A vast fire­place is at cen­tre stage of this low-ceilinged net­work of din­ing rooms. The tupiña, basque for caul­dron, hangs over the fire, in­cu­bat­ing rus­tic stews such as pot au feu. Tan­ta­lis­ing aro­mas of spit-roasted chicken, beef and Pyre­nean Big­orre Noir pork fill the air. If you’re lucky, owner Jean Pierre Xi­radakis, pas­sion­ate de­fender of south west­ern cui­sine since in 1985 will stop at your ta­ble to dis­cuss the prove­nance of the in­gre­di­ents. The three course Menu des In­vités paired with three glasses of wine at this ven­er­a­ble in­sti­tu­tion will set you back €74.

6, rue Porte-de-la-mon­naie. 05 56 91 56 37

PHOTO LE CHAPON FIN

Le Chapon Fin Rock­ery.

PHOTO NI­CO­LAS LASCOMBES

A gen­er­ous main-course at the Brasserie Borde­laise.

PHOTO CHÂTEAUX ET HÔTELS

The Din­ing Room at La Tupiña.

PHOTO CHÂTEAUX ET HÔTELS

A typ­i­cal hearty main course at La Tupiña.

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