THERE WILL BE SPORTS
Between inevitable sportswear influences and habitual references to the past, New York fashion week certainly didn’t surprise anyone, but it did deliver finished and realistic collections. A festive vintage, marked by anniversary fashion shows and long dinners in the Meatpacking district, where the future of American fashion seemed to play out.
What better way to start the week than a Givenchy show? Riccardo Tisci, artistic director, chose to have his show in New York this season, on September 11th. The choice was not out of snobbism, but out of a pure love for the city; symbol of the American dream for him as much as it was for Hubert de Givenchy. Also an occasion to celebrate his ten years as artistic director for the label, and the opening of a new boutique on Madison Avenue. More than a fashion show; the public; composed of celebrities; fashion professionals; fashion students and simple residents of the area (who registered online through a listing opened by New York city hall); were invited to a veritable spectacle dedicated to love and sharing. In a décor composed of recycled materials, installed on the Hudson in Tribeca, Marina Abramović
(a friend of the fashion house) began the festivities with a live performance, surrounded by artists. As for the collection, composed of reinterpretations of iconic Riccardo Tisci pieces; it feels very much like an anniversary line. Black and white, masculine and feminine, strong and fragile; in this wardrobe, everything contrasts, while remaining coherent. A special mention to the superb masks, which added a dash more theatricality to this memorable show. Alexander Wang had a reason to celebrate as well: his eponymous label’s ten year anniversary. The occasion called for a return to street wear roots: sweats, hooded sweatshirts inscribed with “Do something”, oversize t-shirts, sneakers, lace-up detailing, and city pajamas made up this special collection. Followed by a lively film that traced his career from the beginning. Another anniversary, Hervé Léger celebrated his label’s thirtieth birthday with a collection comprised of thirty models for springsummer 2016, and another thirty models dedicated to a retrospective of his work. On the program, the mythic body-hugging band aid dress that made him famous: but not only; looser designs, embroidered with pearls, studs, and jewels; also make their statement on the catwalk. None other than Felipe Oliveira Baptista, artistic director for Lacoste, was chosen to design the uniforms for France in the next Olympic Games in Rio, 2017. The silhouettes on the New York catwalk give a foretaste of what the athletes will be wearing. Comfort and utility are featured, while the brand’s iconic crocodile polo-dress is emblazoned with restyled flags. Ralph Lauren is interested in yachting this season; as his collection, full of literal and abstract references to this trendy hobby, attests. Skater-skirts, wide-legged pants, sailor’s sweaters, and officer’s vests compose this artful wardrobe, ideal for hanging around the yacht club. A water theme serves as the key thread connecting all of the ensembles in the Victoria Beckham show. Surfer silhouettes blossom into dresses, t-shirts, and jackets; necklines take on undulating forms reminiscent of the movement of waves; while ocean-blue appears in stripes and parsimonious touches. The long, immaculate dresses, divided-skirts in bright orange, and play with asymmetrical cuts, dictate a playful and evanescent wardrobe. The Michael Kors woman has never looked so natural. For summer, she bets on opposing genres, associating romantic pieces with street wear, while discovering a certain taste for bohemian style along the way. While, at Proenza Schouler, the ordinarily more technical Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez, preferred to use more traditional techniques to elaborate their summer collection. Resulting, logically, in comfortable, never pretentious, and finally, more attractive pieces. At Boss, Jason Wu also softens his habitually harder silhouettes. Proven by draped and pleated fluid dresses, long coats, fringe and layers, that instantly inject a dose of relaxation. In flares and an airy maxi-dress combination, the Diane von Furstenberg woman seems to have stepped right out of the ‘70s. This modern-day divinity preaches a yé-yé and hippie-chic style, aided by eccentric colors mixed with ethnic and bucolic prints. Jeremy Scott plunges us into post-war Hollywood, into the moment when the first B-movies premiered and kitsch was born. The designer appropriates mythic cuts and silhouettes from the sixties, and blends it with pop prints; like smilies and television screens. One of a kind. Although the collection as a whole demonstrates an obvious sense of humor, it remains nonetheless a wearable wardrobe. Marc Jacobs played on nostalgia, inviting everyone to Ziegfeld Theatre, in homage to Broadway’s golden age. The curtain fell on references to the Victorian era, the roaring twenties, the fifties and the beat generation, the disco movement, and the 1990s; all weaved together. At Calvin Klein, Francisco Costa seemed to undress rather than to dress his models. But it couldn’t be more now. The silk dresses in tender tones will certainly be all the rage next summer: for day and night, at home as well as out in the city. On the Tory Burch runway, silhouettes play with contrasts, creating a balance between sportswear influences and bohemian spirit, the whole in a palette that pays homage to nature with prints in the same vein. The American designer uses the occasion to show her signature tunic in different versions that will doubtlessly end up in the wardrobes of her loyal clientele. Typically New Yorker, the Coach collection speaks of freedom and takes inspiration from American counter-culture. Part surfer, part cowgirl-punk; the woman imagined by Stuart Ververs loves classic pieces as much as passing fancies. As night falls… Rihanna launched hostilities with her private dinner at London Edition. Roger Vivier celebrated his new muse, Jeanne Damas. Givenchy celebrated their fashion show in a parking lot full of cars (and designers). Diane von Furstenberg invited the entire front-row to her own studio in the Meatpacking district. Alexander Wang hired ten pole dancers to animate his wild after-show party. Michael Kors launched his new fragrance line at the Standard Hotel with Harley Viera-Newton at the turntables.