PRE-FALL COLLECTIONS 2017
Curiosity killed the cat… but between winter and spring, journalists and buyers are happy to give into the instinct. It’s enough to peek into the pre-fall 2017 collections to understand what will shake up the runways in February, and a year from now, hit the sidewalks. Bored by brutalism, designers (once again) reach for the 1970s golden era. The atmosphere evokes a smoky living room, where we scratch a few Bob Dylan chords in a folk gown, hidden behind rhinestoned bifocals. Valentino tries his hand at hippie art deco, Gucci reads the cards like it’s nineteen sixty-eight, and Coach tries for anti-globalist hipster. In London, Christopher Kane proposes his vision of flower power: candid, diverse, and artsy. The young guard doesn’t stay on the sidelines: creatively countering the fashion flow: Kim Ellery’s volumes speak volumes; Off-White’s Virgil Abloh oscillates between cultish Victorian and space age street. Unquestioned tradition by many, the pre-fall collection is a slow fashion partisan’s big pet peeve. Certain big names are missing from this fall anthology’s roll call. Designers standing up to the system reminds us that pre-collections are the international buyers’ stock and trade, an effective means of thwarting mass-market giants… At the edge of an overdose, fashion economizes its productivity: will it come out a winner?