Food: Te great restaurants are back / La revanche des grands restaurants 顶级餐厅的回归
Rocked by the arrival of a new generation of chefs, the great historic restaurants have come to their senses. Starched and mannered meals are finished and henceforth, refined tastes will be served, where quality vies with enthusiasm and creativity. A review of the essential wow dining experiences of the season.
The historical gilt-edged restaurants of Paris suffered a serious blow in the 2000s, under the reign of “bistronomy”: the moldings, the triple-thick layers of tablecloths, and wait staff standing to attention were thrown overboard in favor of bare tables, products stamped “terroir,” and tattooed staff. The knife cut through the excesses of culinary snobbery, exorbitantly priced and with meager portions that were not an exactly ethical approach, but time has led to a return to the sure values of a Paris that follows trends. The great restaurants, once tacky, have learned from the new generation. Much less mannered dining rooms, cuisine that listens to the desires of new clients, contemporaneous flavors, and a sense of inventiveness rather than just managing the asset that is their legacy have put them at the forefront of the restaurant scene.