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Food: Te great res­tau­rants are back / La re­vanche des grands res­tau­rants 顶级餐厅的回归

Ro­cked by the ar­ri­val of a new ge­ne­ra­tion of chefs, the great his­to­ric res­tau­rants have come to their senses. Star­ched and man­ne­red meals are fi­ni­shed and hen­ce­forth, re­fi­ned tastes will be ser­ved, where qua­li­ty vies with en­thu­siasm and crea­ti­vi­ty. A re­view of the essential wow di­ning ex­pe­riences of the sea­son.

The his­to­ri­cal gilt-ed­ged res­tau­rants of Pa­ris suf­fe­red a se­rious blow in the 2000s, un­der the rei­gn of “bis­tro­no­my”: the mol­dings, the triple-thick layers of ta­ble­cloths, and wait staff stan­ding to at­ten­tion were thrown over­board in fa­vor of bare tables, pro­ducts stam­ped “ter­roir,” and tat­tooed staff. The knife cut through the ex­cesses of cu­li­na­ry snob­be­ry, exor­bi­tant­ly pri­ced and with mea­ger por­tions that were not an exact­ly ethi­cal ap­proach, but time has led to a re­turn to the sure va­lues of a Pa­ris that fol­lows trends. The great res­tau­rants, once ta­cky, have lear­ned from the new ge­ne­ra­tion. Much less man­ne­red di­ning rooms, cui­sine that lis­tens to the de­sires of new clients, contem­po­ra­neous fla­vors, and a sense of in­ven­ti­ve­ness ra­ther than just ma­na­ging the as­set that is their le­ga­cy have put them at the fo­re­front of the res­tau­rant scene.

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