Saint-Ger­main-des-Prés I

LUXE City Guides - Paris - - Shopping Itineraries -

M: Odéon, exit Car­refour de l'Odéon. As you exit, look for the Café Dan­ton sign; just around the cor­ner is Le Comp­toir (see Rest./Re­laxed). If it's a pre-noon week­day, you can try your luck for lunch, or go next door to sim­ple sis L'Avant Comp­toir and grab one of the city's best jam­bon-beurre sand­wiches. Sat­is­fied? Cross the blvd. St-G. to­wards the Re­lais Odéon Café and then turn right up rue de l'An­ci­enne Comédie, then first left into the mar­ket street rue de Buci. Note: If you headed straight on rue Mazarine you'd get to L'Heure Gour­mande (see L'Heure du Thé). On rue de Buci pass flower and oys­ter sellers and turn left up rue de Seine for a cold rosé and plate of char­cu­terie at the fine deli­gro­cer Da Rosa at #62 / 40 51 00 90, and save room for gelato heaven Grom across the street at #81 / 40 46 92 60. Now, re­trace your steps and fol­low rue de Seine in the opp. di­rec­tion pop­ping into ex­pat Rus­sian Kusmi Tea at #56 / 46 34 29 06 / kus­mitea.com / for pretty tins of pekoe. Con­tinue down Seine and left onto rue Ja­cob. On the cor­ner at #1 is Isabel Marant / 43 26 04 12 / for casj-with-edge gal-gear, while di­ag­o­nally op­po­site is hubby de­signer Jérôme Drey­fuss #4 / 43 54 70 93 / for lovely, cult leather sacs and ac­ces­sories. Take a quick left into rue de L'Échaudé for rock­star kidswear at Fin­ger in the Nose #11 / 83 01 76 75, then con­tinue down rue Ja­cob and swing left into rue Fursten­berg to find fab Ar­tyDandy / 43 54 00 36 / ar­tydandy.com / a heady cock­tail of lim­ited edi­tions from artists, de­sign­ers and other adorable crea­tures. On your left at #3 is lovely Braque­nié spe­cial­is­ing in pretty hand-printed C.18/19th wall fab­rics. Cross to Yve­line An­tiq­ui­tés at #4 / 43 26 56 91 / a dusty trove of ec­cen­tric mag­pie picks from the past. One of Paris' best cul­tural se­crets hides here, the Musée Eugène Delacroix / 6 pl de Fursten­berg / 9.30am-5pm daily / 44 41 86 58 / musee-delacroix. fr / of­fers a win­dow into the C.19th artist's ate­lier, home, work and idyl­lic jardin privé. Now cross the ro­man­tic square and in­dulge in deca­dent cream puffs at La Mai­son du Chou #7 / 09 54 75 06 05, then re­trace to rue Ja­cob and turn left, this street is chokka with pretty dé­cor and an­tique shops run by jessies of a cer­tain age in bright shirts. Say bon­jour to Claude Boullé at #28, and his teeny store de­voted to dar­ling pae­sine ‘land­scape' mar­ble-slices-as-art, and pop next door to be daz­zled by a gold­mine of Made in France me­men­tos at Gab & Jo (see Stand­out Stores). Next, con­tinue on to #32 to the ate­lier/bou­tique of Hervé Ler­oux / 40 46 91 64 / the king of rav­ish­ing, draped jersey god­dess gowns, and Ladurée at #21 / 44 07 64 87 / will ruin your fig­ure, but frankly, life's too short – eat! Exit and stag­ger left up rue Bon­a­parte past the de­li­cious tomes at #35 As­souline / as­souline.com, to place Saint-Ger­main-des-Prés to find iconic Les Deux Magots / 45 48 55 25 / and its neme­sis Café de Flore at 172 blvd Sain­tGer­main / 45 48 55 26. In a nut­shell, pop into Magots just to say you've been; Flore has the lit n' fash crowd. Both have waiters straight out of cen­tral cast­ing. Fail­ing that, be­hind Magots is the ul­tra-elu­sive La So­ci­eté (see Lunch) by the fa­mous Costes bros. Bon ap'! See you in part deux... Bises!

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