S p r i n g - s u mmer 2 0 1 7 A S E NSE OF MOVEMENT

Marie Claire Fashion Shows - - Edito -

Fa­shion is ne­ver as usual. Need proof? Just consi­der that, in Sep­tem­ber, Ralph Lau­ren and Tom­my Hil­fi­ger didn’t show “their” Spring-Sum­mer du­ring New York Fa­shion Week, and nei­ther did Bur­ber­ry in Lon­don. Won­der why? They have all de­ci­ded to switch to “See now, buy now”, and the­re­fore sho­wed their Fall-Win­ter clothes, like Tom­my who pre­sen­ted his Gi­gi col­lec­tion (as in Ha­did). It’s a way to set­tle a bit, to pan­der to the im­me­dia­cy ge­ne­ra­ted by the era of sel­fies, tweets, Fa­ce­book mes­sages and Ins­ta­gram posts, all sprea­ding in frac­tals through the Web, all ex­pres­sing the consu­mer’s com­pul­sive, al­most brat­ty, buying com­pul­sion: “I want it, I want it right now!” While these shows are the pre­cious fruits borne by a ca­re­ful­ly craf­ted an­ti­ci­pa­tion, al­lo­wing us a first glimpse in­to the next sea­son, we have fol­lo­wed them from New York to Lon­don, then from Mi­lan to Pa­ris, and have de­cryp­ted what the next Spring-Sum­mer will be all about. It’s hard to ana­lyse in a few brushs­trokes the es­sence of all this crea­ti­vi­ty, this soa­ring op­ti­mism, these co­lors, these sil­houettes who are per­fect ex­pres­sions of this ins­tant’s de­sire, even at its most ex­tra­va­gant. Cuts are shif­ting as well, shoul­ders broa­den, asym­me­try spreads, clo­thing sculp­tu­rizes the bo­dy, dis­playing its thirst for free­dom. In a word, fa­shion will al­ways be fa­shion. Anne-So­phie Tho­mas, Fa­shion Edi­tor in Chief at Ma­rie Claire

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