THE OB­SCURE FRA­GRANCE OF DE­SIRE

Six evening per­fumes with a dark side.

VOGUE Hommes International (English) - - CONTENTS - By THÉODORA AS­PART Pho­to­graph GI­A­COMO VALOIS

DIOR HOMME PAR­FUM

—A new in­ter­pre­ta­tion of Dior’s cult fra­grance, al­beit markedly more con­cen­trated and in­tense. And a notch up in terms of sex ap­peal!… The orig­i­nal was sen­sual — this one ac­tu­ally bor­ders on provo­ca­tion. Its darker side? A woody leather verg­ing on smoky, car­nal and fleshy, is an almost in­so­lent awak­en­ing for the iris — the star fea­ture of the Dior Homme saga.

75 ML, € 110.50.

MAS­CULIN PLURIEL, MAI­SON FRAN­CIS KURKDJIAN

There’s noth­ing more con­ven­tional — dull even — than a fra­grance for men cre­ated around a fern ac­cord. Ex­cept when the cre­ator is Fran­cis Kurkdjian. With Mas­culin Pluriel, he has given the over–used fern a new lease of life. Its darker side? A hint of leather and a se­ri­ous dose of wood (!patchouli, ve­tiver!) give it in­trigu­ing depth and 2014–style el­e­gance.

70 ML, € 110.

BLEU DE CHANEL EAU DE PAR­FUM

While the ini­tial eau de toi­lette was in­spired by the “fresh blue of night­fall”, as they say at Chanel, this new fuller–bod­ied ver­sion evokes much later hours!… Its darker side? Am­ber, tonka bean and musky wood over­tones nudge the ini­tially fresh com­po­si­tion to­wards dis­tin­guished sen­su­al­ity.

50 ML, € 71.

JIMMY CHOO MAN

The first men’s fra­grance by the Bri­tish cou­ture shoe de­signer sports a crocodile dec­o­ra­tion on the bot­tle. Nat­u­rally. Jimmy Choo Man sits mid­way be­tween the London scene and the es­tab­lish­ment — its ol­fac­tory struc­ture is quite tra­di­tional — and bold, with a num­ber of un­ex­pected notes. Its darker side? Dark patchouli con­trasts with cit­rus fruit, lavender and — more sur­pris­ingly — wa­ter melon and ba­nana leaves. 50 ML, 55 (ex­clu­sively at Sephora).

CAR­VEN FOR MEN

You can almost see your re­flec­tion in the lac­quered bot­tle of Car­ven for Men, and, in­deed, in the shine of the derby shoes worn by the Car­ven Man, as in­ter­preted by Guil­laume Henry. What does Parisian chic smell like? For the House, it’s clear: fresh, green and spicy. Its darker side? An ac­cord of dark woods with hints of sage and nut­meg, which adds a lit­tle oomph to the vi­o­let and orange blos­som bou­quet.

50 ML, € 59.

TOM FORD NOIR

Black is sym­bolic, the am­biva­lence fully–fledged. Noir is in­spired by a mys­te­ri­ous du­al­ity of el­e­gance and sen­su­al­ity, cap­tur­ing the twin facets of Tom Ford man: the re­fined, ur­bane so­phis­ti­cate who the world gets to see and the in­trigu­ingly sen­su­ous, pri­vate man they don’t. “This is prob­a­bly the most per­sonal per­fume I’ve ever cre­ated,” he says. Its darker side? An­i­mal notes (!ben­zoin, civet, leather!) and a pinch of pep­per, which puts spice into the civilised rose and gera­nium.

50 ML, € 77. VH

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