THE OBSCURE FRAGRANCE OF DESIRE
Six evening perfumes with a dark side.
DIOR HOMME PARFUM
—A new interpretation of Dior’s cult fragrance, albeit markedly more concentrated and intense. And a notch up in terms of sex appeal!… The original was sensual — this one actually borders on provocation. Its darker side? A woody leather verging on smoky, carnal and fleshy, is an almost insolent awakening for the iris — the star feature of the Dior Homme saga.
75 ML, € 110.50.
MASCULIN PLURIEL, MAISON FRANCIS KURKDJIAN
There’s nothing more conventional — dull even — than a fragrance for men created around a fern accord. Except when the creator is Francis Kurkdjian. With Masculin Pluriel, he has given the over–used fern a new lease of life. Its darker side? A hint of leather and a serious dose of wood (!patchouli, vetiver!) give it intriguing depth and 2014–style elegance.
70 ML, € 110.
BLEU DE CHANEL EAU DE PARFUM
While the initial eau de toilette was inspired by the “fresh blue of nightfall”, as they say at Chanel, this new fuller–bodied version evokes much later hours!… Its darker side? Amber, tonka bean and musky wood overtones nudge the initially fresh composition towards distinguished sensuality.
50 ML, € 71.
JIMMY CHOO MAN
The first men’s fragrance by the British couture shoe designer sports a crocodile decoration on the bottle. Naturally. Jimmy Choo Man sits midway between the London scene and the establishment — its olfactory structure is quite traditional — and bold, with a number of unexpected notes. Its darker side? Dark patchouli contrasts with citrus fruit, lavender and — more surprisingly — water melon and banana leaves. 50 ML, 55 (exclusively at Sephora).
CARVEN FOR MEN
You can almost see your reflection in the lacquered bottle of Carven for Men, and, indeed, in the shine of the derby shoes worn by the Carven Man, as interpreted by Guillaume Henry. What does Parisian chic smell like? For the House, it’s clear: fresh, green and spicy. Its darker side? An accord of dark woods with hints of sage and nutmeg, which adds a little oomph to the violet and orange blossom bouquet.
50 ML, € 59.
TOM FORD NOIR
Black is symbolic, the ambivalence fully–fledged. Noir is inspired by a mysterious duality of elegance and sensuality, capturing the twin facets of Tom Ford man: the refined, urbane sophisticate who the world gets to see and the intriguingly sensuous, private man they don’t. “This is probably the most personal perfume I’ve ever created,” he says. Its darker side? Animal notes (!benzoin, civet, leather!) and a pinch of pepper, which puts spice into the civilised rose and geranium.
50 ML, € 77. VH