SCHIZOPHRENIC

To­tally am­biva­lent, the per­fumes for this au­tumn com­bine both bright and dark sides …

VOGUE Hommes International (English) - - GROOMING - PHO­TO­GRAPH Gi­a­como Valois Chris­telle Bail­let BY

FRANÇOIS DEMACHY, Per­fumer for Dior “Most fra­grances to­day have mul­ti­ple facets, so that we can wear them to suit our mood. Con­se­quently, we don’t want to wear the same fra­grance from morn­ing to evening. Which is why it’s im­por­tant to work on how a com­po­si­tion evap­o­rates, once its skele­ton and or­na­ments have been de­fined.”

THE AS­CETIC EPICUREAN

DARK SIDE Ab­so­lute de­ter­mi­na­tion, cou­pled with a weak­ness for all things dark. For black clothes in gen­eral, and jack­ets in par­tic­u­lar. BRIGHT SIDE As soft, lu­mi­nous and re­fresh­ing as a white cot­ton, per­fectly tai­lored T–shirt worn un­der the above–men­tioned jacket. Y by Yves Saint Lau­rent, 60 ml,€65. THE ICONOCLASTIC LEADER DARK SIDE Im­pul­sive and enig­matic, un­hin­dered by any form of di­a­logue, it of­fers a truly en­hanced ex­pe­ri­ence… BRIGHT SIDE Smart, dy­namic, ca­jol­ing, with a dis­tin­guished sil­lage, it al­ways wins by a nose. L’HOMME PRADA IN­TENSE by Prada, 50 ml, €73,30.

THE DISCONCERTING PHI­LAN­THROPIST

DARK SIDE The sil­lage is as un­set­tling as a night–time race through a thick for­est of conifers. BRIGHT SIDE Com­fort­ing like a hu­man pres­ence, in the early morn­ing light, when you thought you were lost. NOIR AN­THRACITE by Tom Ford, 50 ml, €90.

THE GEN­ER­OUS CHARMER

DARK SIDE A fe­line charisma, hyp­notic and dev­as­tat­ing, like its am­bas­sador, Alain Delon.

BRIGHT SIDE Its ro­bust, pow­er­ful sil­lage is al­most pa­ter­nal. Both sooth­ing and re­as­sur­ing EAU SAUVAGE PARFUM by Dior, 100 ml, €106.

THE NARCISSISTIC CHILD

DARK SIDE Nervy, im­pa­tient, im­petu­ous, ir­ri­tated, or even ir­ri­tat­ing. BRIGHT SIDE Later on, I will be a ge­nius, a sa­vant or a dic­ta­tor. Or the naivety of a child still try­ing to find their way… DENT DE LAIT by Serge Lutens, 100 ml, €180.

THE ATTENTIVE OPPORTUNIST

DARK SIDE Never re­veal your­self, never take sides. Blur the bound­aries be­tween fem­i­nin­ity and mas­culin­ity to go wher­ever you please. BRIGHT SIDE Its pos­i­tive na­ture, which rein­vents it­self, sev­eral times a day, ev­ery day. LUI by Guer­lain, 50 ml, €160.

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