Brooches reveal sensitivity and personality, and have surreptitiously come back into fashion on jackets or hoodies. Pinning down this gender–free phenomenon.
— While men have worn brooches — formerly known as fibulas — since time immemorial, the 19th century brought a dose of austerity and soberness to the masculine wardrobe. Since that time, brooches have regained respectability and are proudly shown off on a lapel or, more eccentrically, on a bottom pocket, a belt or a hood. The idea is to use them to soften a rough texture, such as denim or tweed, or, on the contrary, to add a touch of chic to the fabric of a sweatshirt. Three experts enlighten us on this distinct item of jewellery, which doesn’t enhance the skin, but rather the clothes it adorns.
VOGUE HOMMES Why now? ELIE TOP Because glam rock styles, coupled with the gradual disappearance of gender stereotypes, have created a new attitude, a “de – gendered ” take on this item of jewellery. At last !
LYDIA COURTEILLE Many men love jewellery. But very few dare wear it. Fortunately, the intrepid aspect of men’s fashions at the moment has opened the door and, suddenly, everything’s possible. So much the better, because apart from watches, bracelets and cufflinks they had very few possibilities.
PIERRE RAINERO, CARTIER Because today, men have greater freedom in expressing their own particular style. And a brooch, more than any other piece of jewellery, enables them to assert their difference. Especially since men who collect precious stones now want to wear them, and for them brooches are currently one of the most suitable ways to do so. VH The taste clanger to avoid ? ET Wearing a brooch on a swimsuit! LC An overly baroque spray or bouquet of flowers. PR Anything that looks like a disguise. An overly heavy brooch or one that clashes with the wearer’s values and style. VH What type of brooch for a modern look? ET I would say brooches that recall heraldic or chivalrous symbols, or evoke rock ’n’ roll and the vanities. But the designs that work best are still quite classical and figurative, like stars, lilies, skulls and certain animals such as wolves, lions and eagles. And abstract, Art Deco, or even more industrial shapes..
LC Round brooches like the designs worn by Karl Lagerfeld, with little motifs, plus diamonds of any kind, or safety pins decorated with discreet, raised ornamentation.
PR Traditionally a flower or an official decoration worn on the lapel of a jacket. Sometimes even a more unusual variation, like the Nail that Aldo Casullo designed in New York in the 1970s. Bear in mind that modernity always lies in the authenticity and sincerity of our approach to it.