La Marée Jeanne

Where Paris - - Dining | Restaurants -

Ami­able and in­ven­tive Paris restau­ra­teur Frédéric Hu­big runs a de­light­ful fam­ily of restau­rants in the 11th ar­rondisse­ment that in­cludes the much loved bistro Astier; Sas­so­tondo, an Ital­ian ta­ble; and Jeanne A, a com­fort-food ta­ble, which serves some of the best roast chicken in Paris. He also owns Jeanne B in Mont­martre, and now he’s opened La Marée Jeanne, a charm­ing Gal­lic fish house with an im­pres­sively good-value-for-money catch-of-the-day menu in the fash­ion­able pedes­tri­ans-only Mon­torgeuil quar­ter of the 2nd ar­rondisse­ment. In­spired by New Eng­land seafood-shacks, Hu­big’s Parisian ver­sion has Edi­son bulb light fix­tures, an open kitchen, seat­ing at the bar, and a ter­rific menu of dishes that can be or­dered in full or half por­tions. And if the at­mos­phere and look of this place are rem­i­nis­cent of new-age fish houses in such hip­ster North Amer­i­can sea­side cities as Port­land, Maine or Van­cou­ver, Bri­tish Columbia, the menu is a su­perb ros­ter of pro­foundly French favourites, rang­ing from starters like deep-fried white­bait with aioli, sea-bass-and-oys­ter tar­tar, and marinated cock­les to main cour­ses like grilled croaker fish fil­let with fen­nel seeds and mashed pota­toes gar­nished with a sauce vierge, a mixed fish plate with a bouil­l­abaisse-like sauce, and quenelles de bro­chet (pike perch dumplings) with a

de­li­cious lob­ster sauce. Since this place has been a hit from the day it opened, reser­va­tions are es­sen­tial. – A.L. N.B. Din­ner only, seven days a week. 3 rue Man­dar (2nd), 01 42 61 58 34

and Provence. Tavel is found in the south­ern Rhône wine re­gion and the wines pro­duced there en­joy the Ap­pel­la­tion d’Orig­ine Côn­trolée la­bel or con­trolled des­ig­na­tion of ori­gin la­bel, with the vine­yards lo­cated solely in the com­mune of Tavel. The Prima Donna 2014 rosé from the Maby Do­maine is a deep heady pink rosé made from the old vine plants of the Cin­sault and Grenache Noir va­ri­eties. The Provence rosés, some of which also pos­sess a con­trolled des­ig­na­tion of ori­gin la­bel, are par­tic­u­larly re­fresh­ing and a prime-grow­ing re­gion is found around Saint-Tropez and Ra­mat­uelle. Just 10 kilo­me­tres from Saint-Tropez on a plain be­tween the Mau­res moun­tain range and the Mediter­ranean Sea the vine­yards of Château Saint-Maur pro­duce fine cru classés and vin­tage rosés, which are par­tic­u­larly good with shell­fish and berry fruits. On the pink dessert side of things, the house of Ital­ian ice- cream and sweet treats, Amorino, is of­fer­ing a de­li­cious daisy-shaped iced mac­aron flavoured with rasp­berry (a dessert fruit par ex­cel­lence) sor­bet and a de­lec­ta­ble daisy-shaped dec­o­rated ice- cream cake, the Margher­i­tine fea­tur­ing pomegranate sor­bet and straw­berry coulis. “Le 144” 144 rue de l’Univer­sité (7th), 01 44 11 32 32

60 rue François Miron (4th), 01 42 77 23 08 15 Place de la Madeleine (8th), 01 47 42 98 91 4 rue de Buci (6th), 01 43 26 57 46 Bistrot du Som­me­lier Restau­rant 97 blvd Haussmann (8th), 01 42 65 24 85 Chai 33 Restau­rant Bercy Vil­lage, 33 Cour Saint-Emil­ion (12th), 01 53 44 01 01

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