Bistro Fare

Where Paris - - Dining -

For any­one who knows his gen­er­ous hearty cook­ing, which is of­ten in­spired by the coun­try kitchens of his native south­west­ern France, the pop­u­lar­ity of chef Chris­tian Etchebest’s ex­cel­lent lit­tle chain of Paris restau­rants is easy to un­der­stand. For those who don’t, the open­ing of his sixth Can­tine du Tro­quet ad­dress in the 17th ar­rondisse­ment of­fers the per­fect op­por­tu­nity to dis­cover all of the de­li­cious rea­sons these friendly, lively bistros are so pop­u­lar with Parisians. The menu here is French com­fort food at its best, in­clud­ing starters like grilled ra­zor-shell clams, white as­para­gus from the Lan­des served with a gar­nish of toma­toes and capers, and mar­i­nated salmon with splashes of red-pep­per sauce, pesto and fro­mage blanc. Next, choose from main cour­ses like Pollack with a sauté of sea­sonal veg­eta­bles, lamb steaks with shal­lots and chives, or an ex­cel­lent steak tartare. Most mains come with some of the best frites in Paris, too, since these hand-cut pota­toes are fried in duck fat, which makes them savoury and es­pe­cially crispy. Fin­ish up with their fa­mous rice pud­ding with caramel sauce, and don’t hes­i­tate to drink the wines by the carafe, since they’re ex­cel­lent value for the money. – Alexan­der Lo­brano

La Can­tine du Tro­quet Pereire 46 rue Bayen (17th), 01 42 67 05 11

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