Mediterranean Dining at Palais de Tokyo
The latest address from the Paris based Quixotic Projects group, which has signed some of the hippest bars and restaurants in the French capital, including Le Mary Celeste and Candelaria, is Les Grands Verres, which is located in a stark but striking space in the Palais de Tokyo. Sleek oak chairs at a long counter, oak-framed black banquettes, and dangling single-bulb suspension lamps make this 170-seater new venue look like a contemporary art gallery, and young American chef Preston Miller’s modern Mediterranean menu is a roster of temptation that caters to all appetites and is vegetarianfriendly. Begin your meal with one of the superb cocktails created by mixologist Hyacinthe Lescoët, the previous head bartender of Le Mary Céleste who recently won the first prize at the famous Chivas Masters France contest, and then peruse the menu, which is different at brunch, lunch and dinner. Stopping by for dinner, we started with three appetisers to be shared, heirloom tomatoes and melon with candied garlic and tahini, curried mussels with parsley butter, and grilled marinated vegetables with labneh. Next, spiralini pasta with clams, whey butter, horseradish and mint and milkbraised pork shoulder with smoked aubergine, new potatoes and chicarrón were succulent delights. Desserts were excellent as well, including grilled peaches with yogurt-cashew ice-cream and chocolate sumac torte with rose meringue. – A.L.
Les Grands Verres 13 ave du Président Wilson (16th), 01 85 53 03 61