Mediter­ranean Din­ing at Palais de Tokyo

Where Paris - - Dining -

The lat­est ad­dress from the Paris based Quixotic Projects group, which has signed some of the hippest bars and restau­rants in the French cap­i­tal, in­clud­ing Le Mary Ce­leste and Can­de­laria, is Les Grands Ver­res, which is lo­cated in a stark but strik­ing space in the Palais de Tokyo. Sleek oak chairs at a long counter, oak-framed black ban­quettes, and dan­gling sin­gle-bulb sus­pen­sion lamps make this 170-seater new venue look like a con­tem­po­rary art gallery, and young Amer­i­can chef Pre­ston Miller’s modern Mediter­ranean menu is a ros­ter of temp­ta­tion that caters to all ap­petites and is veg­e­tar­i­an­friendly. Be­gin your meal with one of the superb cock­tails created by mixol­o­gist Hy­acinthe Lescoët, the pre­vi­ous head bar­tender of Le Mary Céleste who re­cently won the first prize at the fa­mous Chivas Mas­ters France con­test, and then pe­ruse the menu, which is dif­fer­ent at brunch, lunch and din­ner. Stop­ping by for din­ner, we started with three ap­pe­tis­ers to be shared, heir­loom toma­toes and melon with can­died gar­lic and tahini, cur­ried mus­sels with pars­ley but­ter, and grilled mar­i­nated veg­eta­bles with lab­neh. Next, spi­ralini pasta with clams, whey but­ter, horse­rad­ish and mint and milk­braised pork shoul­der with smoked aubergine, new pota­toes and chi­car­rón were suc­cu­lent de­lights. Desserts were ex­cel­lent as well, in­clud­ing grilled peaches with yo­gurt-cashew ice-cream and cho­co­late sumac torte with rose meringue. – A.L.

Les Grands Ver­res 13 ave du Prési­dent Wil­son (16th), 01 85 53 03 61

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