Ca­sual Chic

Where Paris - - Dining - Wim à Ta­ble 45 rue des Moines (17th), 01 42 29 10 41

Like all great cities, Paris is a mo­saic of in­trigu­ingly dif­fer­ent neigh­bour­hoods, and even though it’s com­pact there are still parts of the town that re­main lit­tle known to trav­ellers. One of these is the de­light­ful Batig­nolles dis­trict of the north­ern 17th ar­rondisse­ment. It’s a dense, cosy, lively old quartier with sev­eral beau­ti­ful parks, many cafes and some very good restau­rants. The lat­est is Wim à Ta­ble, with a small-plates for­mat that Flem­ish chef Wim Van Gorp launched af­ter work­ing as chef at New York-based French chef Jean-Ge­orges Von­gerichten’s Paris res­tau­rant Mar­ket for many years. This is ca­sual din­ing at its best, and it’s as good an ad­dress to go to with a group of friends, as it is on your own. The stan­dard menus in­clude dishes like steak Amer­i­caine, the Bel­gian ver­sion of steak tartare, ham cro­quettes, and Bern sausage, while a chalk­board pro­poses a se­lec­tion of sea­sonal small bites that change al­most daily. These might in­clude a roasted duck leg with her­ring eggs, a mar­i­nated cour­gette salad, cepe mush­rooms in a light vi­nai­grette and a pleas­antly pucker le­mon cream for dessert. Ser­vice is young and charm­ing, and the brief se­lec­tion of wines by the glass is well-cho­sen. – Alexan­der Lo­brano

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