Contemporary Bistro Fare
Tucked away in one of the hippest streets in the trendy 10th arrondissement, one of the younger and livelier parts of Paris, Restaurant Eels, the new restaurant named for chef Adrien Ferrand’s signature dish of smoked eel with Granny Smith apple, is the hit table of the season in Paris. The reason you’ll have to book a few days in advance to land a table here, though, is chef Adrien Ferrand’s fresh and stunningly inventive contemporary French bistro cooking. Ferrand previously cooked at KGB, the annex table to chef William Ledeuil’s excellent Saint-Germain-des-Prés restaurant Ze Kitchen Galerie, and although some touches of Ledeuil’s love of Asian ingredients and techniques comes through, the young chef’s style is all his own. The brief menu changes regularly, but runs to dishes like a luscious tuna carpaccio with tomato marmalade and ponzu sauce, succulent red Sicilian shrimp in a light saffron bisque with lightly steamed vegetables, and a vanilla millefeuille with homemade apricot jam. – A.L.