Con­tem­po­rary Bistro Fare

Where Paris - - Dining - Res­tau­rant Eels 27 rue d’Hauteville (10th), 01 42 28 80 20

Tucked away in one of the hippest streets in the trendy 10th ar­rondisse­ment, one of the younger and live­lier parts of Paris, Res­tau­rant Eels, the new res­tau­rant named for chef Adrien Fer­rand’s sig­na­ture dish of smoked eel with Granny Smith ap­ple, is the hit ta­ble of the sea­son in Paris. The rea­son you’ll have to book a few days in ad­vance to land a ta­ble here, though, is chef Adrien Fer­rand’s fresh and stun­ningly in­ven­tive con­tem­po­rary French bistro cook­ing. Fer­rand pre­vi­ously cooked at KGB, the an­nex ta­ble to chef Wil­liam Ledeuil’s ex­cel­lent Saint-Ger­main-des-Prés res­tau­rant Ze Kitchen Ga­lerie, and although some touches of Ledeuil’s love of Asian in­gre­di­ents and tech­niques comes through, the young chef’s style is all his own. The brief menu changes reg­u­larly, but runs to dishes like a lus­cious tuna carpaccio with tomato mar­malade and ponzu sauce, suc­cu­lent red Si­cil­ian shrimp in a light saf­fron bisque with lightly steamed vegeta­bles, and a vanilla mille­feuille with home­made apri­cot jam. – A.L.

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