Ital­ians Do It Bet­ter

Where Paris - - Dining - Pink Mamma 20bis rue de Douai (9th)

If you re­ally want to know where the wild things are, go to din­ner at Pink Mamma, the hugely pop­u­lar new Ital­ian res­tau­rant in a beau­ti­fully ren­o­vated for­mer hos­pi­tal in the frisky Pi­galle neigh­bour­hood. Spread across four floors, this lively but ro­man­tic res­tau­rant also in­cludes a speakeasy-style bar named No En­try in its base­ment and a gor­geous glassed walled din­ing room on the top floor with great views over the neigh­bour­hood. If a va­ri­ety of pas­tas and piz­zas are both on the menu here, the spe­cialty is char­coal-grilled beef, which comes with sides like cheese polenta, sautéed baby spinach, corn or green salad. Those who pre­fer seafood will also find grilled oc­to­pus on the menu, and the best way to be­gin here is with a cou­ple of the shar­ing plates, maybe arancini (breaded deep-fried rice balls), some strac­ciatella (the creamy mid­dle of bur­rata cheese smoked) and some Parma ham that’s aged for two years. Next, the Sar­dinian fre­gola pasta with baby squid is de­li­cious, or share a pizza, the puck­ish named Regina (Queen) de la Night is topped with moz­zarella, Tus­can ham, Por­to­bello mush­rooms and olives. Por­tions are gen­er­ous here, but if you still want dessert, the panna cotta with peach com­pote with laven­der is orig­i­nal and re­fresh­ing. Pink Mamma is open daily, though note that it has a no reser­va­tions pol­icy, so go early to avoid a wait. – A. L.

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