Con­tem­po­rary Tastes

Where Paris - - Dining -

After a distin­guished ca­reer that has in­cluded stints in the kitchens of Paul Bo­cuse, Le Bris­tol, Noma and restau­rants in Lon­don, Florence and Tokyo, young Mex­i­can born chef In­dra Car­rillo has opened his own restau­rant, La Con­desa, in a stylishly dec­o­rated store­front in the de­cid­edly food-lov­ing 9th ar­rondisse­ment. Car­illo’s tast­ing menus evolve con­stantly ac­cord­ing to the sea­sons and what in­spires him in the mar­ket, but dishes like but­ter­nut-squash-filled ag­nolotti in pump­kin bouil­lon with hot pep­per oil, kombu mar­i­nated veal with green beans, sea­weed, and mush­room emul­sion, and wa­ter­melon gelée with hi­bis­cus sor­bet, and Mez­cal show off a cui­sine that is serene, sen­sual, in­ter­na­tional and very per­sonal. – Alexan­der Lo­brano La Con­desa 17 rue Rodier (9th), 01 53 20 94 90

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