Ital­ian Roots

Where Paris - - Dining -

Tucked away in the at­mo­spheric Pas­sage des Panora­mas, one of Paris’s delightful cov­ered 18th cen­tury pas­sage­ways, Racines has been a lo­cal favourite ever since it was opened by Pierre Jan­cou as a mod­ern wine bar with a short ex­cel­lent con­tem­po­rary French bistro menu ten years ago. Now, it’s be­come the new perch for the ex­tremely Sar­dinian born chef Si­mone Tondo, who first be­came well-known in Paris when he was cook­ing at the now de­funct restau­rant Ro­se­val in the 19th ar­rondisse­ment. At Racines, Tondo puts his Ital­ian roots for­ward with a chalk­board menu of beau­ti­fully pre­pared dishes that are pre­pared from first-rate Ital­ian pro­duce he sources him­self and which changes daily. De­pend­ing on the day, you might start with a silky potato velouté gar­nished with red mul­let, grilled lan­goustines, or moz­zarella with Tre­viso. Mains may in­clude home­made pap­pardelle in tomato-sausage sauce, grid­dled scal­lops with salad, or juicy grilled veal chop. The dessert not to miss is the light-as-afeather tiramisu, and there’s a great se­lec­tion of or­ganic and bio­dy­namic wines from Italy. A charm­ing ad­dress for a re­ally good feed. – A.L. Racines 8 pas­sage des Panora­mas (2nd), 01 40 13 06 41

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