In the Mood for Seafood

Where Paris - - Dining -

To­day, some of the best new places to eat in Paris are found in the city’s res­i­den­tial neigh­bour­hoods, where there’s been a wel­come lit­tle boom in small, friendly, re­laxed ta­bles serv­ing fresh mar­ket-driven menus with cock­tails or nat­u­ral wines. A per­fect ex­am­ple of the trend is the very good Nana fish bar in the 11th ar­rondisse­ment. The menu at Nana changes al­most daily, and seafood stars on this short line-up, which in­cludes a se­lec­tion of hors d’oeu­vres, 3 starters, 3 mains, an ex­cel­lent cheese course and two desserts. Stop­ping by for din­ner the other night with a friend, we shared some re­ally de­li­cious smoked beef with a glass of Croa­t­ian white wine for an aper­i­tif. Next, bur­rata with grilled veg­eta­bles and a suc­cu­lent dish of ra­zor-shell clams with N’Djua, the soft spicy Cal­abrian sausage. For mains, I had a per­fectly cooked veal T-bone with cock­les and green as­para­gus in an ele­gant jus de viande, and my friend went with the yel­low pol­lack with white miso sauce and baby ar­ti­chokes. Both dishes were flavourful, care­fully pre­pared and gen­er­ously served. The cheese sam­pler in­clude four per­fectly ripened cheeses from the Fro­magerie Gon­court, and desserts of­fered were a choco­late ganache tart with pear sorbet and yo­ghurt sorbet with rhubarb, straw­ber­ries and panes of meringue. – Alexan­der Lo­brano Nana 10 rue Breguet (11th), 01 43 38 27 19

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