Fa­shion wea­k­e­ning

Siegessaeule - - An English Roundup - < Will Fur­ta­do

> Ber­lin Fa­shion Week will lo­se its Bre­ad & But­ter – the apt­ly na­med tra­de show for street and ur­ban we­ar, which was on­ce a lea­ding force but this ye­ar fell short of ex­hi­bi­tors. It didn’t co­me as a sur­pri­se, gi­ven that sin­ce the first Ber­lin edi­ti­on in 2003, it’s mo­ved to Bar­ce­lo­na and back and shrunk from eight halls down to one. This is cer­tain­ly ano­ther blow to the ri­cke­ty image of the over­all bi­an­nu­al event, which will go ahead de­spi­te not ha­ving a per­ma­nent ho­me. Its fu­ture is un­cer­tain with fal­ling par­ti­ci­pa­ti­on from top de­si­gners and buy­ers, lack of sta­te sup­port, and a con­cept that fails to re­con­ci­le pre­mi­um ad­ver­ti­sers (who want to com­pe­te with the li­kes of Pa­ris) and in­de­pen­dent la­bels that are still fin­ding their feet in the sce­ne. No­nethe­l­ess, Ber­lin Fa­shion Week re­mains a gre­at plat­form to pro­mo­te emer­ging lo­cal ta­lent in­ter­na­tio­nal­ly, and it brings in so­me much-nee­ded spark­le. The pro­gram is split in­to run­way shows, tra­de fairs, show­rooms and par­ties, so­me of them being open to the ge­ne­ral pu­b­lic. The Mer­ce­des Benz-spon­so­red run­way shows will sta­ge the Au­tumn/Win­ter 2015/16 collec­tions by young and es­ta­blis­hed de­si­gners in a tent right by Bran­den­burg Ga­te. The main fo­cus is on the Ber­lin-ba­sed de­si­gners in­clu­ding La­la Ber­lin, Micha­el Son­tag, Brachmann, Bar­re Noir and Ma­ri­na Ho­er­m­an­s­eder, who­se fe­tish-in­spi­red work (pic­tu­red) has ador­ned tren­dy stars such as FKA twigs. The­re are over ten tra­de fairs in­clu­ding ‘cur­vy is se­xy’, a plus-si­ze fair; two in­cre­a­sin­gly po­pu­lar eco­fri­end­ly events, the GREEN­show­room and the Et­hi­cal Fa­shion Show, whe­re over 100 brands pre­sent sustainable clo­thing and ac­cess­ories; Panorama, for avant-gar­de and sports­we­ar; Pre­mi­um for ex­clu­si­ve high-va­lue collec­tions; Bright spe­cia­li­zing in board­sports; Lon­don Edge fo­cu­sing on punk and goth sty­les; and Seek for ur­ban we­ar, most­ly for men. The show­rooms are smal­ler events, of­ten with sa­les and pop-up sto­res spre­ad across the ci­ty, and usual­ly open for all. At the af­ter par­ties is whe­re guests can shame­l­ess­ly play VIP, rub shoul­ders with mi­nor ce­le­bri­ties and show off their frocks.

Berlin Fa­shion Week Jan. 19–23, va­rious ve­nues SIEGESSÄULE pres­ents: Drag Walk at Berlin’s Night of Fa­shion Jan. 24, 17:00, Best Wes­tern Pre­mier Ho­tel MOA Berlin

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