Spargel Fever

Where Berlin - - DINING -

Noth­ing epit­o­mizes spring in Ger­many quite like the revered Spargel (as­para­gus). While the rest of the world en­joys the green va­ri­ety, Ger­mans pre­fer hands down the ten­der white kind, which is grown en­tirely cov­ered by dirt to pro­tect the stalk from sun­light and keep it from turn­ing green. Once the sea­son opens, Ger­many goes Spargel- crazy with road­side stands and mar­kets over­flow­ing with the veg­etable, which some Euro­peans re­fer to as "ed­i­ble ivory" or even "the royal veg­etable." Restau­rants get cre­ative with Spargel menus, though the most popular way to con­sume the di­vine spears is served sim­ply with new pota­toes and hol­landaise sauce so as not to over­power its del­i­cate fla­vor. On 9 and 10 May, Ru­dolph-Wilde- Park at Rathaus Schöneberg even hosts a low-key fes­ti­val in the veg­etable's honor.

Horváth

Aus­tria- born chef Se­bas­tian Frank has built him­self a rep­u­ta­tion – and earned a Miche­lin star – with his highly cre­ative, of­ten­times min­i­mal­ist use of sea­sonal in­gre­di­ents, from sun­chokes to can­died pars­ley root to spruce nee­dles. Veg­e­tar­ian op­tions avail­able. Warm, wooden in­te­rior and lovely out­door pa­tio for the warmer months. €€€. WedSun D. www.restau­rant- hor­vath.de. Paul- Linck­eUfer 44a. T: 030.61289992. U Kot­tbusser Tor. F4

Hu­gos

On the 14th floor of the In­ter­Con­ti­nen­tal Ho­tel, Hu­gos of­fers great views of the city along with the Miche­lin- starred French- Ger­man cui­sine of chef Thomas Kam­meier. Its rep­u­ta­tion as one of Ber­lin’s go-to gourmet des­ti­na­tions is well earned. €€€€. Tue–Sat D. www.hu­gos-restau­rant.de. Bu­dapester Str. 2. S+U Zool­o­gis­cher Garten. C4

Les Solistes

Re­fined yet bold top-notch dining has brought this restau­rant in the Wal­dorf As­to­ria wide­spread renown. Un­der the lead­er­ship of star chef Pierre Gag­naire, the menu has clear French in­flu­ences while dar­ing to in­cor­po­rate fla­vors from In­dia, the Mid­dle East, and fur­ther afield. €€€€. Daily D, closed Sun. www.wal­dor­fas­to­ri­aber­lin. com. Har­den­bergstr. 28. T: 030.8140000. S+U Zool­o­gis­cher Garten, U Kur­fürs­ten­damm. C4

Lorenz Ad­lon Essz­im­mer

Like Fis­ch­ers Fritz, the Lorenz Ad­lon Essz­im­mer has two Miche­lin stars and a well- earned spot in the up­per ech­e­lon of Ber­lin’s finest restau­rants. No de­tail is spared in the cre­ation of an un­for­get­table dining ex­pe­ri­ence, and the mas­ter­ful hand of chef Hen­drik Otto is ev­i­dent in ev­ery taste. €€€€. Tue–Sat D. www.loren­zad­lon- essz­im­mer.de. Un­ter den Lin­den 77. T: 030.2661196. S+U Bran­den­burger Tor. E3

Pauly Saal

Lo­cated in the gym­na­sium of a for­mer Jewish girls’ school, Pauly Saal’s chic, hip dé­cor is matched by a menu of equally cre­ative Ger­man cui­sine, which was newly awarded a Miche­lin star in 2013. Meat dishes made from lo­cal game are a spe­cial high­light. €€€. Daily L&D, closed Sun. www.paulysaal.com. Au­gust­str. 11-13. T: 030.33006070. S Oranien­burger Straße. E2

Re­in­stoff

Chef Daniel Achilles didn’t earn two Miche­lin stars by play­ing it safe. The two nightly din­ner menus at Re­in­stoff – one fo­cused on re­gional tastes, the other in­cor­po­rat­ing in­flu­ences from fur­ther afield – are suc­cess­ful ex­per­i­ments in ex­cit­ing, avant­garde cui­sine. How about some licorice al­gae or miso pra­line? €€€€. Tue–Sat D. www.re­in­stoff.eu. Sch­legel­str. 26c. T: 030.30881214. U Naturkun­de­mu­seum, S Nord­bahn­hof. E2

Tim Raue

From his hum­ble be­gin­nings grow­ing up in Kreuzberg, Tim Raue has be­come one of the most

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