DIN­ING

From sticky ribs to pulled pork, Hilda Hoy feasted on some Amer­i­can-style bar­be­cue, the fin­ger-lickin’- good food trend tak­ing Ber­lin by storm.

Where Berlin - - CONTENTS -

Saucy ribs, pulled pork, and all-round fin­ger-lickin'-good Amer­i­can-style bar­be­cue.

For years, the pre­dom­i­nant Amer­i­can culi­nary im­port in town was the good old burger. But re­cently, a new del­i­cacy has been giv­ing the beef patty a run for its money: Amer­i­can bar­be­cue, the kind eaten with pas­sion across a wide swath of the South, from Texas to Ken­tucky to North Carolina, the so- called “bar­be­cue belt.” The fore­run­ner of the trend in Ber­lin was

Big Stuff Smoked BBQ (Eisen­bahn­str. 42– 43, www.bigstuff.de), which opened in 2012 with a real- deal meat smoker im­ported all the way from Ten­nessee. Back then, Big Stuff was the only place in Ber­lin to get pork shoul­der prop­erly smoked for hours over wood chips, or fall-apart-ten­der beef brisket smoth­ered in zesty BBQ sauce. Years later, it’s still as pop­u­lar as ever, draw­ing hun­gry meat-lovers to the Big Stuff stand in­side Kreuzberg’s Mark­thalle Neun, where they sit on pic­nic ta­bles in­side the 1890s mar­ket hall to en­joy their feast. On the other end of the city is Pignut

BBQ (Ar­miniussstr. 2, www.pignut.de), a more re­cent ar­rival with a sim­i­lar setup in­side the Ar­minius mar­ket hall in Moabit. It’s well worth trav­el­ing off the tourist track to sam­ple the au­then­tic Alabama-style BBQ – think ribs, pulled pork, and chicken, all in­cred­i­bly ten­der and rich with the scent of proper hick­ory smoke. Choose from sides of coleslaw, fries, baked beans, and pickle spears, plus a solid se­lec­tion of craft beers and bour­bon to wash it all down.

Last but def­i­nitely not least on Ber­lin’s BBQ ros­ter is Mitte's Chicago Wil­liams BBQ (p. 51), the only one of the three to have its own sit- down res­tau­rant lo­ca­tion. The meaty menu in­cludes some Euro­pean-inspired items such as sal­s­ic­cia and mer­guez sausages and even es­car­gots, but reg­u­lars would ad­vise you to come hun­gry and go whole­hog with one of the meat plat­ters. You’ll want to add a side of creamy mac and cheese to the pile of ribs, pork, and chicken, then fin­ish up by lick­ing the last tasty rem­nants of sauce from ev­ery fin­ger.

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