Through The Court­yards Of Time

Where Berlin - - SIGHTSEEING -

The Hack­esche Höfe is a quiet and in­tro­spec­tive sight­see­ing stop, es­pe­cially af­ter sun­down, when the last rays of sun­light bounce off the tiled walls. De­signed in the Art Nou­veau style by Au­gust En­dell in 1906, the façades of th­ese eight in­ter­con­nected court­yards are dec­o­rated with poly­chrome glazed bricks, which the ar­chi­tect ar­ranged to give the im­pres­sion of live­li­ness and move­ment. A walk through the court­yards yields a mul­ti­tude of cu­riosi­ties that, a hun­dred years ago, were mostly home to work- and re­pair shops. Such cu­riosi­ties in­clude the cabaret theater Chamäleon (p. 56), jew­elry bou­tique Per­lin, the Hack­esche Höfe Kino cin­ema, and So­phien­club, one of the most pop­u­lar clubs of the former GDR. www.hack­

East Side Gallery

While West Ber­lin­ers loved to ex­press their cre­ativ­ity by draw­ing graf­fiti and paint­ing on the Wall, East Ber­lin­ers were never al­lowed to use the di­vid­ing struc­ture as a can­vas. To make up for all the art­less years, artists from 21 coun­tries were called upon in 1990 to dec­o­rate one mile of the Wall's east­ern seg­ment with their work, cre­at­ing what is now known as the East Side Gallery. Müh­len­straße. S+U Warschauer Straße, S Ost­bahn­hof. G4

Holo­caust Me­mo­rial

MUST SEE Ber­lin’s trib­ute to the vic­tims of the Holo­caust is as big as a soc­cer field and con­sists of 2711 tomb­stone-like slabs of equal size and vary­ing heights, placed on un­even ground to con­vey a sense of claus­tro­pho­bia and dis­ori­en­ta­tion. The un­der­ground in­for­ma­tion cen­ter pro­vides a time­line of Jewish per­se­cu­tion. Ac­ces­si­ble 24 hours a day. Free. www.holo­caustmah­n­ Cora- Ber­liner Straße. T: 030.2639430. U Bran­den­burger Tor. E3


Ger­mans are the world's sec­ond big­gest beer drinkers, af­ter the

Czechs. Ber­lin’s best ex­am­ple of GDR- era Ne­o­re­al­ist ar­chi­tec­ture is a 90m- (295ft-) wide boule­vard built be­tween 1950 and 1960 to pro­vide hous­ing for thou­sands of res­i­dents and to act as a back­drop for mil­i­tary pa­rades. The street quickly be­came a source of na­tional pride for East Ger­many, due to its res­i­den­tial tower blocks in­spired by Moscow and by Stalin’s ideal style: na­tion­al­is­tic in form but so­cial­ist in con­tent. The boule­vard is an im­por­tant ar­chi­tec­tural show­case. U We­ber­wiese, Straus­berger Platz. F3/G3

KPM Ber­lin

Once upon a time in Ber­lin, a Ger­man king bought a lo­cal porce­lain fac­tory, and Königliche Porzel­lanMan­u­fak­tur was born. To­day known as KPM Ber­lin, the com­pany still makes ex­quis­ite, worl­drenowned table­ware and dec­o­ra­tive goods. At its Tier­garten head­quar­ters, the old­est still- run­ning man­u­fac­tory in the city, vis­i­tors can take a tour, en­joy the café, and – of course – shop for beau­ti­ful hand- painted porce­lain. www.kpm- ber­ Wegelystr. T: 030.390090. S Tier­garten. C3

Mauer Mu­seum (Haus am Check­point Char­lie)

This pri­vately run ex­hibit ex­plores the crafty in­ven­tions used by East Ger­mans to es­cape East Ger­many, in­clud­ing Tra­bant cars with hid­den doors, hot-air bal­loons, tun­nels, and chair­lifts. Mon–Sun 9am–10pm. €12.50/6.50. www.mauer­mu­ Friedrich­str. 43- 45. T: 030.2537250. U Kochstraße. E3/E4

Sach­sen­hausen Con­cen­tra­tion Camp

Built in 1936 by pris­on­ers as a model con­cen­tra­tion

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