The Way Of The Beef

Where Berlin - - DINING -

With two great sushi restau­rants, Sasaya and Omoni, al­ready in the area, the re­cent open­ing of Ushido in Pren­zlauer Berg is making this quite the hotspot neigh­bor­hood for top Ja­panese cui­sine. They take their meat very se­ri­ously at this sub­dued and el­e­gant restau­rant, as the name might in­di­cate: trans­lates loosely as “the way of beef,” and this is one of only a hand­ful of places in Berlin where Ja­pan’s fa­mous, in­tensely mar­bled, and richly fla­vor­ful Wagyu beef is on the menu. Come by at lunchtime and you’ll have don rice bowls and tasty bento boxes to choose from, but the din­ner hours are when Ushido really shines. Us­ing a gas grill set in the mid­dle of each ta­ble, din­ers get to try their hand at Ja­panese bar­be­cue. Round off the meal with an ex­cel­lent sake or a tipple of Kuro Kirishima, a sweet potato and rice liquor. Ly­ch­ener Str. 18. T: 030 55242448. in­te­rior, which in­cludes carved wooden ceil­ings and stained-glass. The 19th-cen­tury ar­chi­tec­ture gets a mod­ern boost from the dé­cor. €€–€€€. Tue–Sat D. www.restau­ Köpenicker Str. 174. T: 030.49207242. U Sch­le­sis­ches Tor. G4

Sale e Tabac­chi

Ital­ian. A stone’s throw from Check­point Char­lie, an area that’s some­thing of a culi­nary waste­land, lies this el­e­gant Ital­ian restau­rant known for at­tract­ing celebri­ties. Try the ri­cotta-and mint- stuffed zuc­chini blos­soms, a pop­u­lar starter. €–€€. Daily L&D. e-tabac­ Rudi- Dutschke-Str. 23. T: 030.2521155. U Kochstraße. E4


Ger­man/Euro­pean. Head chef Ni­co­las Gemin, for­merly of Miche­lin-starred Pauly Saal, wows din­ers with up­scale twists on Ger­man-Euro­pean cui­sine: Think cured salmon with beet pick­les and ri­cotta, oc­to­pus and chorizo, or lamb shoul­der with smoth­ered Jerusalem ar­ti­chokes. Also serves break­fast and week­end brunch. €€–€€€. Mon– Fri L, daily D. Paul-Lincke-Ufer 42. T: 030.69598880. U Kot­busser Tor, U Schön­le­in­straße. F4

Spindler & Klatt

Asian-Euro­pean fu­sion. Restau­rant, lounge, and club in one, Spindler & Klatt makes full use of its prime river lo­ca­tion. In the sum­mer, the wa­ter­side ter­race is a mem­o­rable spot to enjoy the menu of Pan-Asian dishes, from fine sushi to siz­zling tuna steaks and dry-aged Ir­ish steaks hot off the grill. Even in colder months, the chic, post-in­dus­trial in­te­rior – built in the 1800s as an army bak­ery – is un­for­get­table too. On Fri­days and Satur­days, the spot trans­forms into a club from 23pm. €€€. Daily D. www.spindlerk­ Köpenicker Str. 16–17. T: 030 319881860. U Sch­le­sis­ches Tor. G4


Ger­man. The name of this restau­rant and the edgy, post-in­dus­trial in­te­rior re­mind din­ers that the space was once an elec­tric­ity sta­tion. Chef Matthias Gleiss has edge, too – he was named New­comer of the Year in 2011 by a jury of top Berlin chefs. Re­fined yet ex­cit­ing Ger­man food is his call­ing card. €€€. Mon– Sat D. www.restau­ Paul-Lincke-Ufer 21. T: 030.61074033. U Kot­tbusser Tor. G4

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