New Pun­jab Club

Crave - - FEAST - Words Iris Wong Pho­tos Mike Ho

The res­tau­rant

There is some­thing rem­i­nis­cent of Wes An­der­son’s Grand Bu­dapest Ho­tel about New Pun­jab Club, the 15th es­tab­lish­ment from Black Sheep Restau­rants. Per­haps it’s the boxy, but­toned-down “lobby boy” uni­forms worn by the jolly wait staff, or their groomed han­dle­bar mous­taches. Maybe it’s the res­tau­rant’s re­gal, yet flam­boy­ant, in­te­rior with em­bossed walls, leather ban­quettes and an as­sort­ment of con­tem­po­rary South Asian art­works. In­stead of a bar, pre-din­ner drinks are served from a trol­ley with a se­lec­tion of smart gins, manned by a perky staffer who re­minds din­ers that Thurs­day nights are never too early to party and of­fers a shot or two as he mixes the Gin and Ton­ics.

The Food

Miche­lin-starred chef Palash Mi­tra (for­merly of Gymkhana, Lon­don) is at the helm of this con­vivial Pun­jabi grill house, which is cen­tred around its tan­door oven and soul-restor­ing dishes best for shar­ing. We start with samosa chaat ($98), deep­fried samosas bro­ken into rough pieces and topped with crispy gram-flour ver­mi­celli, fresh onion and pome­gran­ate seeds for crunch and tart­ness. Paired with mint chut­ney and raita (a yo­gurt-based condi­ment), this dish pretty much cov­ers the en­tire flavour pro­file, but with­out over­whelm­ing. Next is keema pau ($118), our favourite dish of the night, with mouth­wa­ter­ing spiced minced mut­ton scooped up on but­tery, house-made milk buns. Am­rit­sari machli ($118), a chick­pea-bat­tered river fish, is com­fort on a plate. The thin, crispy bat­ter ad­heres per­fectly to the juicy fish and crum­bles mar­vel­lously with ev­ery bite. From the tan­door come murgh tikka an­gar ($248), or tan­doori chicken, and masale­wali chanp ($468), or tan­door-roasted New Zealand lamb chops. Both are ex­cep­tional and nei­ther is over­pow­ered by spice so the quality of the meat shines through. By then we are ab­so­lutely stuffed, but we can’t leave with­out try­ing the but­ter naan, which we use as a ve­hi­cle for mouth­fuls of New Pun­jab Club’s ver­sion of but­ter chicken, Mughal Room makhani ($148).

The Ver­dict

En­tic­ing menus draw crowds, but it’s a great vibe that keeps them com­ing back and New Pun­jab Club has done a good job of both. We were not let down by a sin­gle dish, and the G&T trol­ley added to the al­ready at­ten­tive ser­vice. Eat with your hands for ul­ti­mate en­joy­ment, and make a note to visit its glo­ri­ously lus­trous re­stroom.

Newspapers in English

Newspapers from Hong Kong

© PressReader. All rights reserved.