ESCAPE IN THE CITY

Want Australia in a nutshell? Adelaide beats its more highprofile neighbours hands down. Now Australia’s ‘big country town’ is getting a bizarre new landmark. By MARK JONES

Discovery - - CONTENTS - 澳洲的「大型鄉郊城市」即將擁有一個惹人注目的地標。撰文: PHOTOGRAPHY Mark Jones E M I LY W E AV I N G

Something weird is occurring outside the ‘big country town’ called Adelaide, says MARK JONES

城中自逍遙

「大型鄉郊城市」阿德萊德外有些不尋常的事物出現,且看Mark Jones有何見聞

若想對澳洲有個概括的認識,阿德萊德遠比其他澳洲名城優勝。這個

Here’s a test. You’re in a cool city in the US, Canada, South Africa or Australia. Sooner or later, you’ve had enough of the craft coffee and hipster bars, the bare brickwork and exposed ducts and everything being terribly vibrant all the time. You want to escape to somewhere peaceful, green and hilly, a place of sweet air, pretty villages and rolling fields of vines. Where’s best?

In San Francisco you head to Napa. In Vancouver, it’s Vancouver Island, obviously. Allow some time for those trips; slightly less from Cape Town to the winelands around Paarl or from Melbourne to the Mornington Peninsula.

Forget that lot. I’m thinking of a place where you can plausibly have your main course in town and your dessert in the hills, with nothing more to distract you than the sounds of the magpies and the smell of gum trees. That place is Adelaide.

Try this. Have a bite to eat in the Adelaide Central Market (it’s a market that’s very central) – maybe the laksa at Asian Gourmet or a pie at The Latvian

我們來做個測驗。身美吧 你 在國、加拿大、南非或澳洲某個有型有格的城市,連日來享受過精心沖的調 手工咖啡,到過潮人雲集的酒吧,也參觀過不經批盪、磚頭和管道外的露 摩登建築,體驗過到處都一片活潑熱鬧的氣氛。你開始對這一切有點厭倦了,想找個安的地方躲起來。這個地方最好有蒼翠起伏的山巒,空氣清新甜美,還有漂亮的小村莊和大片的葡萄園。這種世外桃源一般的地方在哪裡?

如果身處三藩市,大可前往納;帕若在溫哥華,目的地當然就是溫哥華島。這些旅程都需要充裕的時間,不過若從開普敦前往Paarl鎮附近一帶的酒鄉,或是從墨本爾 前往摩寧頓半島,則需時較短。

不過你大可將這些地方統統置諸腦後。我心目中有個理想的地方,讓你可以在市區嚐罷美味主菜之後,從容地在山間享用甜品,這裡除了耳畔喜鵲的啾啾鳥語,以及空氣中瀰漫的桉樹氣味之外,再無別物打。來 擾 那個地方就是阿德萊德。

Lunchroom. Then drive 20 minutes, 30 if you’re unlucky, to Uraidla, a village surrounded by orchards and market gardens high in the Adelaide Hills. Have a rum panna cotta with orange caramello and gluten-free cacao biscuit at Lost in a Forest, then, if you like, head back to the Big Table in Central Market for coffee. I guarantee your digestive system will cope.

Adelaide is conventionally described as Australia’s biggest country town. You know that’s accurate within minutes of strolling down King William Street, right in the centre. Sure, there are tower blocks, warehouses, convenience stores, high- end boutiques, public sculptures, buses and trams. But between the blocks, there is a neatly framed view of not-verydistant hills speckled with large, low houses. Melbourne and Sydney are their own intact, enclosed little kingdoms: Adelaide is open.

It’s a big country town.

Still, it has all the things modern, vibrant New World cities are meant to have – like the rickshaw bike that picked us up at the Mayfair Hotel one piercingly bright autumn morning.

The Mayfair is the kind of smart, well-run businessy-boutique hotel Adelaide has been crying out for. Tick that urban box. Our muscular architecture student rider weaved in and out of the blocks between North Terrace and Flinders, returning again and again to the narrow functional lanes that have lately been given over to bars, boutiques and cafés. Tick that box again. It’s still a big country town.

Let’s take a minute to understand what signals those words send out. The country town is every bit a part of the Aussie national imagination as the beach and the bush. The instant picture: prosperous, wide streets, the colonnaded Victorian pub on the corner, the land agents and bottle shops down the street, the sport clubs and friendliness, the small ‘c’ conservatism, that easy surety than nothing really dreadful can ever happen here.

You can easily see that if you’re a restless spirit, a teenager, or both, it could drive you mad.

You might end up like Paul Kelly, a young songwriter who fled Adelaide for Melbourne in 1976, looking back at:

The streets…so wide, everybody’s inside Sitting in the same chairs they were sitting in last year

All the king’s horses all the king’s men Wouldn’t drag me back again

To Adelaide, Adelaide, Adelaide, Adelaide.

不妨安排一趟以下的行程:先在位於市中心的阿德萊德中央市場稍為吃一點東西,例如Asian Gourmet的喇沙,或是The Latvian Lunchroom的餡餅,都相當不俗。接著駕車前往阿德萊德山上的Uraidla村,這條村四周有多許 果園和菜如園。 果道路暢通的話,20分鐘即可抵達,不然就要30分鐘。抵埗後在, Lost in a Forest餐廳冧品嚐意酒 式奶凍配香橙焦糖和無麩質可可餅,乾 然後,如果你喜歡,的話 不妨返回中央市場的Big Table來一杯咖啡我。保證你的消化系統能夠有應付 餘。

當地人通常將阿德萊德形容為澳洲最大的鄉城郊 市。在市中心的King William Street街漫步,片刻 就會知道這是一個貼切的形城容。 裡的而且確有摩天大廈、倉庫、便利店、高級時裝店、公共雕塑、巴士和電車等,但在高樓之間,見可以 到不遠處的山丘之上,遍佈不少大型平房。墨爾本和悉尼在佈局上都是自成一國的大城市,但阿德萊德卻是敞開門戶的。

這是一個非常大的鄉郊式城鎮。然而這裡也具備了新世界城的 市不可或缺的摩登事物和充沛活力例, 如在某個晴朗的秋日早晨,在Mayfair酒店門外接載我們的人力單車。

Mayfair是一家新穎而經營有道的商務式精品酒店不, 但滿足了阿德萊德長久

But even old punks make their peace with their past. Paul Kelly, now a bald man in a suit and a bona fide Australian national treasure, was duly dragged back to receive his honorary doctorate from the University of Adelaide a couple of years ago. I bet he had a great time.

It hasn’t taken any horses or men to drag me back to South Australia regularly over the past 20 years. Every time I’ve had a rich and extraordinary experience. I’ve pottered around refined North Adelaide, then tippled through the Barossa Valley. I’ve Land Cruisered north through the Clare Valley to Wilpena Pound and up to scorching Parachilna – Outback proper. Then I’ve flown beyond: over Lake Eyre to Coober Pedy, over the Painted Hills, the huge mines and huger cattle stations. I was in cooler, wildlife-rich Kangaroo Island when the Southern Ocean Lodge opened – the best resort this side of the Tasman Sea. The common element: Adelaide is base camp, the starting point for all those varied and incredible adventures.

Back to where we started. It sounds like the sneakiest backhanded compliment, but one of the reasons Adelaide is great is because escape from it is so easy. The gate is open and there are wonders galore beyond. I’m putting it out there: if you’re

以來對此類酒店的渴求,更充滿都會氣息。接我載 們的車夫是一位體格精壯的建築系學生,他帶我領 們穿梭北他雲斯和弗林德斯,在狹窄的巷弄之間往復來回;這些本來只用作交通往返的街道,近來已有不少酒吧、時裝店和咖啡室進駐其間。這裡的而且確充滿都會氣息。然而阿德萊德仍然是一個大型鄉城的 郊 鎮。

且讓我對們 這些字彙傳所 達的意義稍作思考。提到鄉城郊 鎮,就如同澳洲人想起海灘和叢林那樣自然,讓人立即聯想到一片繁盛的景象、寬闊的街道、街有角 家門前有柱廊的維多利亞式酒吧、街上的土地買賣經紀行和酒館、運動俱樂部和友善的氛圍、稍為保守的民風,以及讓人心裡踏實安的全感。

可以輕想易 像得到,如果你是個好動的人,或是個青少年,或者是個好動的青少年,阿德萊德會令你發狂。

你的下場可能會像於1976年逃離阿德萊德前往墨爾本的年輕作曲家Paul Kelly所寫的歌詞:

街道寬闊,人人卻留在屋裡

坐在去年坐過的同一張椅子上即國使 王出動全部人馬

都不能把我拖回去

拖回去阿德萊德,阿德萊德,阿德萊德,阿德萊德

然而即使是昔日的頑童,今時今日亦不會再對舊事介懷。數年前,頭頂已禿的Paul Kelly穿著西一身 裝,被人「拖」回接去受阿德萊德大學頒給他的名譽博士學位。他現在是名副其實的澳洲國寶,深我 信他必定在地當 享受了一段快愉 的時光。

過去20年,南澳不必費兵馬一 一 ,就已經能夠我令 不斷舊地重遊,每而次且 都令大眼我 開 界有, 豐富而非凡的體驗。我曾在風景優美的北阿德萊德四處蹓躂,然後在葡萄酒產區芭蘿莎谷開暢懷 飲。我也曾在北部作自駕遊,穿越克萊爾谷至維佩納凹地,再往上走至熾熱的山區小鎮帕拉叱納,這裡已屬於澳洲內地。隨後我乘坐飛機途經艾爾湖,越過彩繪山和巨大

Town and country

Clockwise from top left: Lost in a Forest café; Big Table at Adelaide’s Central Market; the Bicentennial Conservatory at the Botanic Gardens; Rundle Street; Mayfair Hotel

城市與郊野

左上圖起順時針: Lost in a Forest餐廳;阿德萊德中央市場的Big Table咖啡店;植物園內的Bicentennial Conservatory溫室;時尚的Rundle Street街; Mayfair

Hotel酒店

looking for an introduction to Australia, or to renew your acquaintance, it’s the best city to fly into. Nowhere else in Australia does Australia in a nutshell quite like it.

And now there’s a new and totally bizarre reason to fly in and drive out.

The McLaren Vale wine region is another idyllic little spot you can get to from Adelaide in no time at all. The climate is Mediterranean and anyone who loves the open vistas and valleys of France’s Lot Valley or Languedoc will feel at home here. But beneath the low hills and terraces of vines lies an epic geological history that makes this one of the most varied and unpredictable areas for wine growing anywhere in Australia.

Speaking of unpredictable, lunch with Chester Osborn at the d’Arenberg winery is just that. D’Arenberg is South Australia wine breeding at its finest: Chester is the fourth generation to run these 180 hectares overlooking South McLaren.

When you go to meet Australian farmers or winemakers who’ve been on the land that long, you prepare yourself for a taciturn bloke straight from an R M Williams ad: trusty Akubra hat, dusty boots, faraway stare. Chester is a bit more rock’n’roll than that. His jeans have seen more than a few vintages, while his shirt, one of a range he designs himself, is a chaotic blend of candy stripes, tartan and floral. With his goatee and tumbling grey-blond hair, his looks are a toss-up between Robert Plant from Led Zeppelin and the lion from The Wizard of Oz.

And he can talk, can Chester. They’re bringing the vintage in and he apologises that he won’t have time to have lunch with us on the terrace of his fine Verandah cellar door restaurant. An hour later, with the empty plates competing for table space with wine glasses in various stages of consumption, we still haven’t started on the reason I’m here: The Cube.

Australian winemakers have always been pretty good at attracting people to their properties with an intoxicating mix of tastings, cool restaurants and quirky retail outlets.

Then there’s this.

The d’Arenberg Cube is a five-storey pile of green and white glass boxes piled on top of one another and plonked among the estate’s Mourvèdre vines. It looks like a giant sci-fi version of a Rubik’s cube some extraterrestrial hasn’t managed to complete. Chester likes puzzles – all d’Arenberg’s wine names are a tease of some kind – and he spent 10 years puzzling how to let his fellow directors let him build this thing.

Finally, he cracked it. When it opens later this year, its protean walls and floors will house an interpretation centre, function rooms and a new fine dining restaurant. South Australia will have a new landmark less than an hour from Adelaide’s central business district.

It’s another reason to stay in the city: and escape from it.

IT LOOKS LIKE A GIANT SCI- FI VERSION OF A RUBIK’S CUBE SOME EXTRATERRESTRIAL HASN’T MANAGED TO COMPLETE看上去有如科幻小說裡尚未被外星人破解的巨型扭計骰

For more about Adelaide and South Australia, go to tourism.sa.gov.au

Thanks to Avis for vehicle hire. avis.com 礦場,以及面積更廣大的養牛場,前往庫伯佩地鎮。位於塔斯曼海一另 端的鼠袋島氣候較清涼,島上有豐富的野生動物。

我來到島上時,剛好碰到豪華度假酒店Southern Ocean Lodge開幕。總括而言,這些旅程的共通點,就是以德德大阿萊作本營,由此展五十開 光 色的刺旅激 程。

且讓我們返回故事的開端。雖驟然 聽似是拐彎抹角的暗中恭維話,但阿德德萊的其中一個吸引之處,正因離是為開該地易如反掌。當地可以讓你自由進出,而外面世的 界是更 多姿多采。直截了當地說,要是從你 未踏足澳洲,或是希望重這拾對個家國 的印象,乘搭飛機前往阿德萊德必定是選最佳 擇,因為洲澳 再無別處能夠像這裡一般將各種澳洲特色兼並收 蓄。

至於為何要乘飛機入境,然後駕車離開?以下是一個古但怪 新奇的由理 。

從阿萊德 德出發,轉瞬即可抵小達巧迷人的麥拿倫谷葡萄酒產區。當地擁有宜人的地中海氣候,望際一 無的光風和山谷,讓人恍如置身法國的洛特河谷和Languedoc區。在低矮山丘和大片長滿葡萄樹的梯田之下,蘊藏一深段 遠的地質歷史,令此地成為洲澳 最出人意表的葡萄區產 之一。

與德倫艾 堡酒莊和酒的四莊 第 代傳人Chester Osborn共晉午餐,同樣出人意表。這座酒莊佔地180公頃,俯瞰麥拿倫谷部南 ,是南澳洲最秀釀莊優 的酒 園,現由Chester負責經營。

如果要與一個數代均居於澳洲的農夫或釀酒師會面,不期然就會期望眼前出現一個沉默寡的言人男,戴頭 平實的Akubra闊邊氈,帽 腳踏滿佈塵埃的靴子眼, 神邈然深邃──有如從R M Williams服廣裡飾 告走出來的特模 兒一樣。然而Chester卻多了一點搖滾氣息:穿他 著的陳年牛仔褲非常殘舊,至於身上的恤衫則屬於自家設計系列,將粉色間條,格子花紋和花卉共冶爐一 。這一身打扮,加上他的羊山 鬚和蓬鬆的灰金色頭髮,令他看上去有如Led Zeppelin樂隊的Robert Plant和野《綠仙蹤》的獅子的混合體。

Chester是個談人健的 ,擅長跟人聊天。他的酒莊設附 的餐廳Verandah有個陽台,十分雅致,我們就在那裡吃午

餐。應侍 送上陳年葡萄酒時他, 向我們道歉,表示沒有時間我和 們共晉午餐。一小時後,美酒佳餚下肚,餐桌上已是杯盤狼藉,而我們仍然未談到我前往該處原的因: Cube。

澳洲釀酒師一向擅長招徠之術,以品酒型會、 格廳產餐與 品獨特的特賣場等吸引客人到酒去莊 ,令他們流忘連 返。

現在還加上這幢有趣的建築。D’Arenberg Cube是一棟五層高的建築,外形有如一堆綠色和白色的玻璃盒子堆在起疊 一 ,坐落於Mourvèdre葡萄樹之間,驟眼看,去 就像一個科幻小說裡尚未外被 星人解破 的巨型扭計骰。Chester喜歡玩各種拼圖解謎遊戲,因此酒莊出產的葡萄酒的名稱均有如一個謎語;而本他人更花費十時年 間,苦苦思索如何破解一個更重大的題就謎 :

是怎樣才能說服其他董事,同意讓他建造這座東西。

現在題謎 終於破解了。這座巨型扭計一骰 般的建築將於今年稍後開幕,裡面設有講解中心、多用途會議室,以及全新的高級餐廳。南澳從此擁有嶄新地標,距離阿德萊德市中心商區業 不足一小時。這又成另了 一個駐足與開離阿德萊的由德理 。

阿德萊德及南澳洲情詳瀏請 覽tourism. sa.gov.au

鳴謝Avis提租供 車服務。avis.com

DISCOVER ADELAIDE Cathay Pacific flies to Adelaide from Hong Kong five times a week

探索阿德萊德

國泰航空設有由香港飛往阿德萊德的航班,每周五有班

Outside, the box Chester Osborn (left) and his d’Arenburg Cube – South Australia’s newest landmark 不 一格Chester Osborn(左圖)與他酒莊內的新穎建築d’Arenburg Cube,這是南澳最新的地標

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