The Vespertine dream
This year’s most controversial restaurant has opened. At Vespertine in Los Angeles, Chef
Jordan Khan is seeking to change the way we see, feel and interact with food. The restaurateur describes the mysterious establishment variously as a “gastronomical experiment seeking to disrupt the course of the modern restaurant”, a “place of shadows and whispers” and “a spirit that exists between worlds”. If that sounds a bit unusual, that’s because Vespertine is of “a time that is yet to be, and a place that does not exist”. The few photos that have emerged show fare that looks out of this world, resembling the surface of a distant planet rather than food. The constantly changing tasting menu lists 18 or more dishes served in four acts. The restaurant seats just 22 people. If you have money to spare, time to wait and a taste for the interstellar, this is the place for you.