CEN­TRE OF AT­TEN­TION

A TRIO OF ASIAN-BASED FASH­ION LA­BELS LIGHTS UP THE CENTRESTAGE RUN­WAY

Prestige Hong Kong - - FASHION -

Asia’s premier fash­ion event made a splash last month, at­tract­ing 8,700 in­ter­na­tional buy­ers to the Hong Kong Con­ven­tion and Ex­hi­bi­tion Cen­tre. The four-day event show­cased 230 brands from 22 coun­tries and re­gions, in­clud­ing three Asian-based la­bels se­lected as this year’s Centrestage Elites. Ja­panese avant-garde streetwear la­bel Fac­etasm, Hong Kong ready-to-wear womenswear la­bel Idism and Chi­nese lux­ury womenswear la­bel Ms Min pre­sented their spring/sum­mer 2019 col­lec­tions to an au­di­ence of more than 1,000 guests at the open­ing gala show on Septem­ber 5.

IDISM

Julio Ng and Cyrus Wong – a self-de­scribed yin and yang – launched their la­bel Idism in 2016. Al­ready into their sixth sea­son, the de­signer duo came to Centrestage with a mis­sion to share the process be­hind their cre­ations. “The fash­ion in­dus­try is so fast that we felt gar­ments are not well ap­pre­ci­ated these days,” says Ng, a Cen­tral Saint Mar­tins grad­u­ate who has worked at Gareth Pugh. “Peo­ple don’t have as much knowl­edge about fabric or the creative process, so we wanted to cre­ate a col­lec­tion to tell peo­ple to feel a lit­tle bit more in terms of see­ing and feel­ing.” The Idism col­lec­tion fea­tured min­i­mal­ist shapes and graphic prints de­signed by the pair to en­sure op­ti­mal ef­fect. “Ev­ery de­signer is dif­fer­ent, but for me my in­flu­ence is pa­per pat­terns. It’s one of my in­flu­ences and re­ally drives my de­sign,” ex­plains Wong, who trained at the Lon­don Col­lege of Fash­ion and worked at Huis­han Zhang.

Look­ing ahead, the pair are hop­ing to slow down and re­fine their mes­sage even fur­ther. “The first five sea­sons we were al­ways do­ing shows,” Ng says. “The next sea­son we feel like we need to stop do­ing shows and con­struct an even more for­ward col­lec­tion.”

FAC­ETASM

A pi­o­neer in merg­ing lux­ury and streetwear, Fac­etasm de­signer and founder Hiromichi Ochiai set out to dis­cover the “miss­ing part” of the fash­ion world in de­sign­ing his spring/sum­mer ’19 col­lec­tion. His for­ward-look­ing “neo-ur­ban” vi­sion trans­lated into asym­met­ric checked shirts, lace-fin­ished bomber jack­ets and suede-fringed pon­chos – show­cas­ing Ochiai’s love of com­bin­ing dif­fer­ent fab­rics and styles, as well as cross­ing age and gen­der bound­aries. Ochiai – who showed at Mi­lan Fash­ion Week in 2011 on an in­vi­ta­tion from Gior­gio Ar­mani, and was short­listed for the LVMH prize in 2016 – em­pha­sises the im­por­tance of mak­ing an emo­tional con­nec­tion. “[What is] the most im­por­tant is how clothes can touch peo­ple’s hearts,” he says. “What you be­lieve is right is not al­ways the same in other peo­ple’s eyes, but it is im­por­tant as a de­signer to have your own faith in what you see. The work of a de­signer is to bring hap­pi­ness to peo­ple.”

MS MIN

Min Liu – who stud­ied at Lon­don Col­lege of Fash­ion and spent time in Am­s­ter­dam at Vik­tor & Rolf and in Xi­a­men at Ports 1961 – launched Ms Min in 2011. The brand quickly caught the at­ten­tion of con­sumers and buy­ers alike with its ded­i­ca­tion to fab­rics and con­struc­tion. Af­ter her first show at a con­tem­po­rary art fair, Liu’s de­signs were picked up by Lane Craw­ford for its first main­land stores as well as Saks Fifth Av­enue and Open­ing Cer­e­mony. The de­signer also ap­peared at New York’s Met Gala, and in 2016 was nom­i­nated for the LVMH prize. Her con­tem­po­rary de­signs fea­ture tra­di­tional Chi­nese el­e­ments, in­spired by Liu’s own search for tra­di­tional clothes on the main­land, and are pro­duced at the brand’s own fac­tory. The col­lec­tion shown at Centrestage paid trib­ute to 1920s Shang­hai, with rich colours and fab­rics that re­call tra­di­tional Chi­nese fash­ion. The spring/sum­mer ’19 col­lec­tion was also her first since be­com­ing a mother. “I’m work­ing hard on the de­vel­op­ment of the col­lec­tion,” she said in the lead-up to the Centrestage show, “and I think you could say it’s very much in­flu­enced by my feel­ings of joy and fem­i­nin­ity at this mo­ment.”

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